Messages

1

Hop Growing / Re: Just ordered my rhizomes

« on: March 24, 2013, 02:20:49 pm »

They're actually pretty easy to contain as long as you pay attention.  You can give them 2-3 years in the ground and then just dig the whole crown up, prune and plunk it back.  If you let them go any more than about 3 years you'll probably need like a 12 pack for the whole job.  It's all about being outside and homegrown, nothing like it!  Hop On!

2

Hop Growing / Re: Rhizomes planted on 3/9/13

« on: March 12, 2013, 07:58:32 am »

Spent brewing ingredients have performed excellent for me in my compost.  Just make sure the grains are mixed a bit as if you leave them in a large pile they'll produce some pretty funky aromas.  Once composted they seem to give the compost a really workable texture.  Good luck!

3

Ingredients / Re: citrus juice

« on: February 02, 2013, 11:04:45 am »

I'm leaning toward hoser's way of thinking but maybe by using the zest after fermentation would allow the alcohol to extract the essential oils much like how the oils are pulled from the hops when dry hopping.  Happy Groundhog's Day!

4

Ingredients / Re: Best time to selectively pick hops

« on: September 10, 2012, 08:05:56 am »

It seems like you're on the right track.  I've seen a formula that the growers use where they take samples (so many grams/plant) at certain points throughout the field and measure 'wet' and then 'dry' weights and proceed accordingly.  Because the cones on the entire plant ripen at different rates, they have to make a call to get the biggest bang for their buck being that they only take the harvester into the fields once.  As home growers, we have a lot more flexibility  which is a good thing.  Hop On!!

5

Ingredients / Re: Bare hop bines

« on: August 26, 2012, 03:26:09 pm »

The more foliage left after harvest the more carbohydrates the plant can produce until it dies back this Fall.  If the vines aren't actively growing at this point, they won't use the carbs so any food produced will end up being stored in the crown for use in the future.  The hop farmers have to treat things a little different in the way they manage their crop so we home growers have an upper hand in this respect.  Hop On!!

6

Ingredients / Re: Big 'old hops

« on: July 26, 2012, 09:48:59 am »

I'm with Pinnah about the cone structure.  My Zeus are dense to the point that it's hard to peel them apart to check how the goodies are progressing.  Very little male bloom this year on them so they must like it hot and dry.

As for some of the other comments about different varieties coming ripe before others, hops tend to grow with a lot of variability until they become established - and depending on your growing conditions, that may be as long as 3 and possibly 4 years in some cases.  Once they're established you can usually begin to pick up the little quirks that each variety may possess.  It all takes time so enjoy the ride!

7

Ingredients / Re: how to determine hop plant variety?

« on: May 31, 2012, 08:43:49 am »

Hopfen is right, especially when they're young - first/second year.  Once they're established the foliage pretty much takes on the characteristics of that particular variety although you'll have some different leaf types on different locations of the same plant.  Once mature, cone shape combined with leaf shape will get you closer to nailing down the variety.  Also, with the Redvines, I suppose the amount red coloration along the vine has to do with where they're grown.  Mine are usually just tinged with red along the points of the vine where the climbing hooks are located.  Lots of variables to look at.  I just grow and have fun with it!

8

Ingredients / Re: Rhizomes?

« on: April 24, 2012, 08:52:21 pm »

Some varieties just don't produce well no matter where they're grown.  Over the past 20 or so years and 20 or more varieties, I've gotten rid of the following:  Hallertau, Tettnang, Saaz (and varieties related), Kent Golding, Willamette, Nuggett and a couple others.  If one plant won't produce at least half-a-pound, they get yanked.  A guy I gave some Hallertau cuttings to down near Pittsburgh had great success.  Was it because he was a little South of me, or the fact that he had them growing in a floodplain?  All you can do is try and make sure you give them at least 3-5 years before you decide to get rid of them.  Grow On!

9

Ingredients / Re: Rhizomes?

« on: April 11, 2012, 10:13:04 am »

morti is on the right track.  They'll grow even if you plant them upside down, but for easier maintenance,  vertically will help keep them from spreading too much.  If you plant horizontally, some of the buds are angled upward (at about a 45 degree angle) and others downward at the same angle.  The downward oriented buds will grow down and away from the rhizome and may emerge a couple feet away.  All along this underground shoot, there will be more rings of buds that can continue this process year after year with more shoots popping up further and further away.  So, either way will work but it helps to understand the consequences before hand.  Hop ON!

10

Ingredients / Hop breeding, varieties, shortages etc..

« on: February 27, 2012, 10:00:13 pm »

Hi all, I don't know if anyone has posted this but it's a great interview with Dr. Al Haunold (USDA) and Dave Wills (Freshops) about all things HOPS:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RpmWm6O0yzU .  Enjoy!

11

Ingredients / Re: Malt Knowledge

« on: November 24, 2011, 09:55:24 am »

I'm with dannyjed.  About the only information around back in the mid 80's was Papazian's book.  I just read about the styles and looked at what malts were used in those particular examples and extrapolated beyond that, once I thought I knew what I was doing.  At this point I feel I'm 'almost there' but these maltsters keep on coming up with different malts all the time. 

Just try some different things and remember what the results tasted like and build on that knowledge.  First hand experience isn't something you can buy at the local homebrew shop - so brew, brew and brew some more.  Hoppy Thanksgiving!

12

Ingredients / Re: Homegrown hops not flowering

« on: September 18, 2011, 06:55:35 am »

When grown from rhizomes, the first year can be quite variable.  I've seen 25 feet of growth with tons of hops and sometimes you have the exact opposite.  As long as the plant without the cones looks to be healthy you should be fine for next year.  Any cones that are forming right now will probably not have enough time to develop fully before the weather turns for the worse.  I kinda doubt if the motion activated light had anything to do with the issue at hand - unless it's a really REALLY bright one that stays on for a long time.  Now it's time for a beer.

13

Ingredients / Re: Organic Rhizomes

« on: September 13, 2011, 09:43:23 am »

If you look up the regulations on what it takes to be certified organic you'll be amazed on how simple the process actually is.  In a nutshell, if you've not used any pesticides that are on the 'hit' list for 2 or 3 years, you'll get a certification.  So yes, if you follow the guidelines set up by the local, state and federal folks, you can then claim that you actually are raising 'organic' hops - even if the plant material you started with was not certified organic.  Things may have changed in recent years but that's the way I remember it being explained to me.  Have fun!

14

Ingredients / Re: Male hop plant

« on: July 19, 2011, 07:02:56 am »

If it is a male, you could just let it go and see what happens.  I've read some debates on using seeded hops and none have really swayed me one way or another.  I have one male in my garden and it blooms at a point that only later ripening varieties have some seeds.  I think it's kinda cool!  Go for it!

15

Ingredients / Re: Hops Direct announced this years crop

« on: June 28, 2011, 10:22:07 am »

After looking at the information here:  http://www.ars.usda.gov/SP2UserFiles/person/2450/hopcultivars/21045.html it looks like it very well could be an old continental variety with the tiny sidearms and low alpha and cohumulone.  The problem with many of these older varieties is that they are generally really poor producers no matter where they're grown.