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The Pub / Re: A Free Kindle Book
« on: May 14, 2013, 06:23:42 AM »
Great book for entertainment. I don't think Dr. Bamforth intended it to be a brewing textbook.
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Ingredients / Re: It's SPRING!!!!
« on: May 14, 2013, 06:17:37 AM »
Good to hear from you again Oscar. Unless you want to get them analyzed at a lab, bittering will be an educated guess. You can start with using the average AA% for the variety and use trial and error from there. I just use store-bought hops for bittering, and then toss a @#&$load of homegrown in at flame-out.
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Kegging and Bottling / Re: Outdoor draft system
« on: May 06, 2013, 07:11:20 AM »
Sounds like a fantastic idea. Couple things that come to mind... Keep the lines cold. I'm not sure just insulating the lines will be enough, but maybe. No idea what a small glycol system would run you in France. You could run the lines inside PVC pipe with a small fan circulating cold air through it as an alternative. Secondly, don't forget to take into account the vertical rise in calculating the resistance of your system. You'll probably need to go with 1/4 inch lines.
Congrats on the new house, and good luck with the outdoor taps!
Congrats on the new house, and good luck with the outdoor taps!
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Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Hydrometer reading for first extract
« on: May 05, 2013, 07:30:01 AM »
Yes, you should, but it's not completely necessary if you're trying to keep your first brew day simple. With an extract kit, as long as your volume measurements are accurate, your OG will be on target since all you're doing is dissolving a known quantity of sugars in a know quantity of water.
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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: When to add Honey?
« on: May 02, 2013, 06:21:36 AM »
I like to add it to the primary as the fermentation starts to slow down. Yes, it's a contamination risk, though slight, but it will give you the most honey character.
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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wyeast 3711 French Saison
« on: April 29, 2013, 04:38:23 PM »
3711 is a monster, so it will probably just keep plowing through. With that said though, a 15 degree drop in temp is not a good idea. The yeast may not finish up properly with that big of a drop. Can you move it somewhere warmer? With a healthy pitch, and temperatures in the 70s, my Saison with 3711 is usually done in 7-10 days. I like to leave it in the kegerator for at least 4 weeks before tapping, but it's good young too.
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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Scoresheet comment... Inappropriate?
« on: April 27, 2013, 09:34:12 AM »
That comment really didn't serve any purpose. He probably could have used the space better to describe what additional dimensions would have improved the beer. With that said, don't stress it, you advanced with a 44 score on your other beer. That's an awesome score! Revel in your success.
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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: feel like a dumb a.. but did not steep grains
« on: April 27, 2013, 09:27:22 AM »
I'd just leave it alone at this point. It will still be beer, just a little drier finish and lighter color than the recipe called for.
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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Re: What's Brewing This Weekend - 4/28 Edition
« on: April 25, 2013, 07:30:38 PM »Hopefully I can brew a Saison this weekend, time in between the kids' sporting events permitting. My favorite brewed Saison used 3724, but only finished @ 1.009, even with a low mash and high fermentation temp, and big starter. I've used 3711 and got it down to 1.002 - liked it alot but not as much as DuPont's flavor. So I'm gonna blend, in my own way. Gonna go hot with 3724 for 7 - 10 days, then add a little 3711 to go crazy and finish. Hopefully I'll get most of the profile of DuPont, and let the 3711 eat until happy. Sounds fun anyway !Just for the record, this is an excellent strategy. It's become my SOP for Saisons lately. No brewing this weekend for me, but I will be building up some Brettanomyces to a pitchable quantity for a 100% Brett fermented Saison.
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Beer Recipes / Re: Re: I am dreaming of a hoppy white wheat beer
« on: April 25, 2013, 08:50:50 AM »The DMS precursors are much higher in pilsner malt due to the malting/kilning process (lower temps), thus the need for the longer boil to drive them off. 2-row pale malt still has some of the precursors, but at much lower levels, so you can get away with 60 minutes.You don't have any pilsner malt in there, so DMS shouldn't be a concern.
I thought DMS was a problem with any lighter malt. I would prefer not to waste the time or the propane if I don't have to.
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Beer Recipes / Re: I am dreaming of a hoppy white wheat beer
« on: April 25, 2013, 05:05:56 AM »
You don't have any pilsner malt in there, so DMS shouldn't be a concern.
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Going Pro / Re: Logo Feedback
« on: April 24, 2013, 11:19:20 AM »
I'm not a graphic designer, and I hate FB, so take my opinion with a grain of salt. None of the images make me think of a big bug. Either change the name to little bug, use one of Tom's bugs, or talk to the Mothra people.
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Beer Recipes / Re: Vienna/Wheat/Pale
« on: April 24, 2013, 10:08:05 AM »
Keep in mind, for future batches, that orange peel in the boil will give some bitterness. Also, it's still early, let the beer clear completely before you start drinking it. Yeast in suspension will give the beer some extra "bite." Using gelatin, isinglass, etc. will speed the process.
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Zymurgy / Re: Awesome magazine
« on: April 24, 2013, 06:23:02 AM »
If you like the current issue, don't forget that a perk of membership is access to electronic versions of past issues. With everything that the AHA does for members, the annual dues are a steal.
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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Re: Look what the stork droped off...
« on: April 23, 2013, 08:24:58 AM »You're not supposed to use RO/distilled water for dry yeast rehydration. I think that's what he was referring to.[...]2- sure you can do a 2.5 gallon boil and then top off with filtered or boiled and cooled water I would not use distilled water though as the mineral content in spring water is beneficial to the flavor and the yeast health. Just a FYI don't ever use reverse osmosis water though as it can kill the yeast as the osmotic pressure of RO water is higher than the cell wall of the yeast.
[...]
Are you sure about this? RO water is simply water that has been purified by being forced through a semi permeable barrier. Distilled water has less minerals than RO as it was evaporated and recondensed.
As far as wort production from extract, I would recommend RO/distilled since the extract was already made with plenty of minerals in the water.