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Yes, use the Pale Ale profile and brew away. You will probably want to get your sulfate up so the hops will pop. Looks like Pilsen water!It looks good, but not Pilsen good.
Dave
Just to be an OCD engineer, a plate chiller is a type of counter flow chiller, at least the ones I know. The plates can give high area in a small package.http://morebeer.com/products/wort-chiller-superchiller-recirculation.htmlyeav ive also ready about some of the issues with plate chillers holding hop gunk in them, thats why i bought a stainless steel hopspider from stainlessbrewing to put my hops in while boiling. when the boils over i can just pull all of it out and nothings going in my plate chiller:) also in regards to said cleaning issues, since the wart will be boiled when it first hits the plate chiller, anything in it will be eradicated:)
http://www.mrmalty.com/chiller.php
like I said, don't know if it's any better, but it's the tool I wanted to try. I also have read a good bit about plate chillers and cleaning issues. anyway, just the direction I went.
cheers
the boiling wort sanitization only works if you recirc for a bit with no water running. Remember if your plate chiller is working the wort should be below 'safe' temps by the time it's 10% of the way through the chiller.
I don't think that plate chillers are inherently better than IC's on the home scale. Pro scale I think plate becomes the only choice just because it's impractical to have a IC that big.
The advantages to IC include dropping the temp of the entire mass of wort quicker thus reducing isomerization and volatilization of flame out hops.
the third type is counter flow by the way.
If you do it at 80%, the yeast will finish the sugars and be active to reduce the VDKs. The increased activity will help scrub off sulfur. Then you can crash down to cold temps to lager and drop out the haze and yeast. The classic profile has a slow cooling to keep the yeast working, as they will slowly reduce the VDKs at low temperature.good info from everyone. seems like we are all on the same page. it just seemed odd to me to hear people do a d-rest after 2 weeks at 50F...seems all activity would be done and there would be nothing gained from doing a d-rest then (considering a normal lager range around 1.050-055). maybe for bigger beers over 1.060 there would still be fermentation activity near the 2 week mark - i just haven't done a lager that big.
As long as you don't remove the yeast from the beer, it doesn't matter if all activity has ended. Warming the beer for the d rest will make it active again.
ok good to know. but then whats the difference in doing a d-rest at 80-85% attenuation , vs. 99-100% attenuation ? any benefit of one over the other
http://www.bjcp.org/docs/2008_stylebook.pdfGood show on the win.
Category 14 covers all of the Pale Ales
14A - English IPA
14B - American IPA
14C - Imperial IPA
I entered in the 14C category. I think they grouped the winners from each subcategory to come up with an overall category winner.
yes, I remember that. "I haven't/just brewed this and I know it is going to be really good."Started in '91 and was taught by one of my cousins, who had been brewing for a while, all grain. So I started with all grain. Speaking of pre-internet, who remembers "The Cat's Meow"? I still have copy on one of my brew book shelves.Wow, there's a flashback!
HAH, fixed it. Flickr doesn't make it easy though.i used to do the trial and error method, and once I know the rough amount needed, did that amount each year. This year I just bittered with magnum, as that was pragmatic.
Back to green hops..... is there a DIY to get a ballpark bittering power of your home grown? Or is it pure trial and error....?
