1
All Things Food / Re: Soft Beer Pretzel
« on: September 10, 2012, 12:59:45 PM »
So no info on how to stuff a pretzel or if the lye crystals measure out the same as the lye in Jeff Renner's recipe? Some one has to have some ideas!
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2
All Things Food / Re: Soft Beer Pretzel
« on: August 31, 2012, 11:13:41 AM »
Back from the dead!
I made these last year with the baking soda/water substitute for lye. If using this:
http://www.essentialdepot.com/servlet/the-2/2-lbs-Food-Grade/Detail
Is the measurement the same on the quantity of lye to use from the recipe (1 Tablespoon lye crystal/ quart of water)?
Looking to make these in 2 weeks (Mpls locals can probably figure out why).
Also, if one were to want a cheese stuffed pretzel, how would one go about doing this?
I made these last year with the baking soda/water substitute for lye. If using this:
http://www.essentialdepot.com/servlet/the-2/2-lbs-Food-Grade/Detail
Is the measurement the same on the quantity of lye to use from the recipe (1 Tablespoon lye crystal/ quart of water)?
Looking to make these in 2 weeks (Mpls locals can probably figure out why).
Also, if one were to want a cheese stuffed pretzel, how would one go about doing this?
3
The Pub / Re: Exploding heart in 3, 2, 1...
« on: April 15, 2011, 09:07:57 AM »
Did you mean B17 on the saddle? I've never heard of the N17. Another option would be to go with the flyer (I recall you mentioning a thudbuster, so you could skip that with just a flyer):
http://www.brooksengland.com/en/Shop_ProductPage.aspx?cat=saddles+-+touring+%26+trekking&prod=Flyer
I have a b17 and a flyer. Both are awesome. The flyer has more use so far, so it fits a bit better. They do take a bit of saddle time to get them to fit you properly. A bit of saddle conditioner (Brooks Proofide seems to work well) will help speed up the process. Just don't go overboard with it, or you will prematurely stretch out the leather.
Good call on going with clipless. Not sure if you have already bought or not, but I'm a big fan of Time brand pedals. Extremely durable and easy in/out.
Congrats on commuting with your own power! The first time is the hardest, and you are well past that.
Good luck with avoiding the overly entitled motorists.
And as far as hauling brew stuff, I have hauled 4 full kegs home from a friends house, 2 sacks of grain (along with other specialties, hops, yeast, etc...) from the brew store, and many other things. It just takes a long bike. But I have also hauled a 50 lb sack of corn sugar on the rear rack of my commuter as well.
http://www.brooksengland.com/en/Shop_ProductPage.aspx?cat=saddles+-+touring+%26+trekking&prod=Flyer
I have a b17 and a flyer. Both are awesome. The flyer has more use so far, so it fits a bit better. They do take a bit of saddle time to get them to fit you properly. A bit of saddle conditioner (Brooks Proofide seems to work well) will help speed up the process. Just don't go overboard with it, or you will prematurely stretch out the leather.
Good call on going with clipless. Not sure if you have already bought or not, but I'm a big fan of Time brand pedals. Extremely durable and easy in/out.
Congrats on commuting with your own power! The first time is the hardest, and you are well past that.
Good luck with avoiding the overly entitled motorists.
And as far as hauling brew stuff, I have hauled 4 full kegs home from a friends house, 2 sacks of grain (along with other specialties, hops, yeast, etc...) from the brew store, and many other things. It just takes a long bike. But I have also hauled a 50 lb sack of corn sugar on the rear rack of my commuter as well.
4
Equipment and Software / Re: Digital Mash Thermometer Suggestions
« on: March 10, 2011, 09:14:16 AM »
I absolutely love my thermapen. Finally brought it to brew day, and the guy that does the cooking (I'm the basement bi+ch) wants one now. If you can afford it, go for it. It will get used for more than just brewing.
Only problem I have with it for brewing is that the probe is kind of short (about 6"). The one that Denny showed looks like it has a bit longer probe, which will let you get farther into the center of the mash, allowing you to check for consistency throughout.
Only problem I have with it for brewing is that the probe is kind of short (about 6"). The one that Denny showed looks like it has a bit longer probe, which will let you get farther into the center of the mash, allowing you to check for consistency throughout.
5
Equipment and Software / Re: Using a used oak barrel
« on: March 09, 2011, 10:41:18 AM »
Yes for leak checking. Also for storing, I guess. I''ve heard that it should be stored with water in it (change the water every couple of days?)
6
Equipment and Software / Re: Using a used oak barrel
« on: March 08, 2011, 05:16:42 PM »
Can the campden tablets go in the barrel during the fill, or does the water need to be treated before going into the barrel?
7
Equipment and Software / Re: Fermentation Station Sanitation....
« on: March 08, 2011, 05:02:59 PM »
If you have a means of measuring humidity, it wouldn't be a bad idea to just see what you are getting for himidity in the freezer during fementation. Not sure if much liquid evaporates during fermentation.
Also, the CO2 should help limit what can grow in there.
Are you using the dead freezer for fermenting (with a light bulb for heat) or the good freezer?
Also, the CO2 should help limit what can grow in there.
Are you using the dead freezer for fermenting (with a light bulb for heat) or the good freezer?
8
Equipment and Software / Re: Using a used oak barrel
« on: March 08, 2011, 04:54:56 PM »
Do I have to worry about chlorine/chloramines from city water? We use filtered water for brewing, but the good (fast) filter is intalled 10 miles away at my friend's house where we brew.
9
Equipment and Software / Re: Using a used oak barrel
« on: March 08, 2011, 03:35:42 PM »This will not move when filled, unless you have a fork truck. The beer will be about 450 lbs whenit is full, and the barrel is >100 lbs. Our club figures around 600 lbs for our barrels. Those stay in one place and corny kegs are filled from the barrel, and the barrel is recharged from corny kegs to keep it topped up.
That's the plan of action for use. Build a solid stand and don't plan on moving it until it's empty.
It does still smell a bit like bourbon, but I don't believe there are enough fumes left from the spirits to cause any problems, as it's already had a beer rinse.
10
Equipment and Software / Using a used oak barrel
« on: March 08, 2011, 02:17:52 PM »
I am the proud owner of a used 55 gallon oak barrel (formerly Heaven Hill bourbon, then used once for a commercial beer).
After using for the commercial beer, the bung was not replaced, and it was rolled outside. I do not know how long it was outside, but would guess less than a week. It was fairly cold (not above 40, I believe) for the time it was outside. It still smells like beer and bourbon (no off smells that I can tell).
The ends (top and bottom) are warped. I am not sure if this is normal, or due to being outside with melting snow on it.
If I were to use this for aging some imperial stout, what are my options? Should I re-sanitize (sulfur stick? sodium metabisulfite and citric acid? something else?)? Should I dump in some fresh bourbon/whiskey/whisky, let it soak in a bit, and fill with beer? Should I pop an end off and re-char the inside? Or should I just consider it no longer useful for beer aging, and convert it to a portable (with enough strong individuals) keg dispensing system?
I tried searching for previous discussions of this, but had a hard time finding anything, so bear with me, or point me to another thread where this was discussed.
Thanks!!!
After using for the commercial beer, the bung was not replaced, and it was rolled outside. I do not know how long it was outside, but would guess less than a week. It was fairly cold (not above 40, I believe) for the time it was outside. It still smells like beer and bourbon (no off smells that I can tell).
The ends (top and bottom) are warped. I am not sure if this is normal, or due to being outside with melting snow on it.
If I were to use this for aging some imperial stout, what are my options? Should I re-sanitize (sulfur stick? sodium metabisulfite and citric acid? something else?)? Should I dump in some fresh bourbon/whiskey/whisky, let it soak in a bit, and fill with beer? Should I pop an end off and re-char the inside? Or should I just consider it no longer useful for beer aging, and convert it to a portable (with enough strong individuals) keg dispensing system?
I tried searching for previous discussions of this, but had a hard time finding anything, so bear with me, or point me to another thread where this was discussed.
Thanks!!!
11
All Grain Brewing / Re: Malt, Malt, Name that Malt.....
« on: March 04, 2011, 09:01:43 AM »
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/aromatic-castle-55-lb-not-crushed.html
You mean this one that midwest does(n't?) carry?
You mean this one that midwest does(n't?) carry?
12
Pimp My System / Re: Keezer build
« on: March 01, 2011, 01:05:47 PM »
Your hinges may possibly be mounted a little bit off as well. Most freezer lids I have seen have slots for mounting them to make them adjustable. Close the lid, loosen all the screws on either the top or bottom of the hinge (the slotted ones), let the lid sit as flat as possible on the collar, then re-tighten the screws without moving the lid. This will help you get even pressure all the way around the gasket.
13
The Pub / Re: does your state have a malt beverage association?
« on: February 23, 2011, 09:23:12 AM »
MN has the MN Craft Brewers Guild and the MN Liscensed Beverage Association.
The latter of which, just stuck it's foot in it's mouth when they suggested that Surly leave the state instead of building a new $20 mil brewery.
The latter of which, just stuck it's foot in it's mouth when they suggested that Surly leave the state instead of building a new $20 mil brewery.
14
Kegging and Bottling / Re: CO2 regulator issue
« on: February 08, 2011, 12:05:36 PM »
If you have a newer regulator, it may already have an O-ring built in to the tank connection. If so, it may even say something along the lines of "use no tank washer".
15
Kegging and Bottling / Re: CO2 regulator issue
« on: February 08, 2011, 11:07:37 AM »
If you turn the pressure up higher, the leaks will be easier to spot. Spray something on that will form bubbles easily (star san, soapy water, etc...). Spray anywhere there is a connection. It could even be the valves that you are turning off.
A likely cause is the connection between tank and regulator. Make sure you have the right type of gasket/seal/o-ring for your setup, and use a new one if you can. I don't like the O-rings that are captured in a brass ring that screw in to the tank, but that may just be me.
Start at 30 psi and work your way up to about 50 or so. If it will hold at 50, it darn well better hold at 10.
A likely cause is the connection between tank and regulator. Make sure you have the right type of gasket/seal/o-ring for your setup, and use a new one if you can. I don't like the O-rings that are captured in a brass ring that screw in to the tank, but that may just be me.
Start at 30 psi and work your way up to about 50 or so. If it will hold at 50, it darn well better hold at 10.