Topics

1

Equipment and Software / Cleaning Mills- Barley Crusher

« on: May 04, 2013, 03:30:18 PM »

I just used my Barley Crusher for the first time.  What an amazing tool!  I want to make sure that it works for as long as possible.  How should I go about cleaning it?  I just took the Shop Vac to it.  Anything further required.  My old Corona mill seemed to rust over a decade of use- rinsing with water it and drying after each use (probably not wise) .  This new mill is the bees knees.  I cant believe I ever used anything else. 

2

Yeast and Fermentation / What to do with a slow fermenting beer

« on: February 17, 2013, 08:41:25 AM »

I made a larger beer a couple of weeks ago (1.075) and in haste (and in hindsight) did not pitch enough yeast (1 vial Yorkshire Square) nor did I make a starter.  The beer never really took off in fermentation.  Fermentation was visible within 24 hours, but never really develop the thick krausen I am used to.  The fermentation has been temperature controlled and monitored (69 degrees F) throughout. 

2 days post brewing, I left for a week, and when I returned home, saw about the same, thin layer of activity on the surface. At this time, I checked the gravity with the refractometer (did the conversions for gravity on fermented beer) and found it around 1.055.  At this time, I decided to add the only yeast I had on hand - 1 vial of White Labs Cal Ale yeast.  After aeration and another week (2 weeks from brew day), the gravity (refractometer reading) is now around 1.044, still have some activity in the airlock of about a bubble per 10 secs, uniform but very thin "head" or bubbles on the surface of the beer, but again, no healthy krausen.

Another variable that may help troubleshoot this issue are:
The recipe had 1 lb of brown sugar added to the kettle, which should have been pretty easy for the yeast to chew through.

My question is: Should I:
1. Dump it: 2+ weeks in primary scares me.  I should have been transferring to secondary by now.  I can tie up a fermenter for another couple of weeks, but I dont know what this monster is going to do, or taste like. 
2.transfer it to secondary and keg it later (is it worth kegging at 1.044)
3.or just keep taking gravities, praying that it will come down into at least the 20s.  I am doubting that it will at this point.

Any help is greatly appreciated.
-Ben

3

General Homebrew Discussion / How to become a better recognizer of flaws

« on: January 03, 2013, 05:07:34 PM »

I can't say that my palate is overly sensitive.  I let my wife have the first pint off of every keg to determine whether batches are serve worthy for parties, or if I am going it alone for 10 gallons.  She seems to be able to detect very subtle flaws that I cannot. 

My question is, is this something that I can overcome or rather become better at?  I would like to exercise the palate so that I can detect subtle differences in my own procedures.  I am sure that those who have sat for the BJCP exam became better by preparing for the exam?  Anybody have any study tips that were helpful or techniques?  Thanks in advance.

4

Ingredients / Need more hop "nose"

« on: January 03, 2013, 04:25:42 PM »

I have been tinkering to beef up the hop aroma of my IPAs lately- without results of my liking.  I really want an overwhelming hop smell, but no matter what I do, there is very little variation.

I have used the same malt profile, usually a Columbus 60 min addition, and then altering one variable, either 1. use of a hop back or 2. dry hop time.  Apart from the 60 min addition, I have removed 45 and 30 min additions from the standard recipe (usually something like Galaxy, Cascade or Zythos) and have instead put these additions at 10 and 5 mins.  I use a hop back (1-2 oz of Cascades flowers) and dry hop with 2 oz per 10 gals for anywhere between 3 and 14 days.  No real difference. 

Any suggestions?  Higher quantities of hops?  Different timings?  Different cultivars?

5

Kegging and Bottling / Hop Rocket Randall and Grassy Flavors

« on: August 06, 2012, 02:39:25 PM »

I recently purchased a Hop Rocket, and last night was my first attempt using it as a Randall.  I had an IPA, through which I filtered 2 oz of flowers (1 oz Citra, 1 oz Amarillo).  The first and last pints off the keg were incredibly grassy.  I doubt that it had to do with the hop varieties, but maybe a short contact time with the hops? I dont know- I am really disappointed since I bought the device for mainly Randall purposes.  Anybody have a remedy for this issue?  It seems most people's issues are with it are with foaming with seemingly no mention of grassiness.

I say the first and last pints off the keg were grassy because I had 2 pints last night and when I got home from work today I found my four kegs + 20 lbs CO2 tank floating in IPA.....before cleaning everything up, I drew one final grassy tasting pint of the keg. Everything seems to be hooked up properly, even the $30 I spent in Blichmann quick connects.  Seems to be leaking from the bottom clamp. ?  Huge kick to the nuts.  I hope that someone has the answer for how to avoid grassy-ness in the future.

6

Equipment and Software / FermWrap on Fermenator?

« on: May 15, 2012, 01:37:56 PM »

I currently use FermWraps and glass carboys for raising fermentation temps in my basement during the winter months.  I must admit that this simple system works great, but I love the idea of someday owning a stainless steel conical.  Would the Fermwrap allow you to raise and maintain ale fermentation temperatures on a Blichmann Fermenator or is the wall of the Fermenator too thick to make much of a difference?

7

Events / NHC 1st Round - Georgia Shipping Confusion

« on: March 19, 2012, 06:50:25 AM »

I just went to UPS to ship my entry to the Georgia regional site.  It seems that either the City or the Zip is wrong.  The zip (30076) is for Roswell, the mail in site is Alpharetta.  The seem to be side by side cities, the problem is the road connects the two towns !!!! I told them to send it to Alpharetta- not sure if my entry will make it.

8

Equipment and Software / Fermwrap and fermentation control

« on: November 03, 2011, 08:53:02 AM »

Can anybody comment on how well the Fermwrap works for maintaining desired fermentation temps:  http://morebeer.com/view_product/16674/

Also, I was thinking about buying two ferm wraps for my two 6.5 gal carboys (10 gal batches) but use just one Ranco (therefore one probe - http://morebeer.com/view_product/16666/beerwinecoffee/Ranco_Digital_Temperature_Controller_-_Wired)  and one thermal well.

The idea would be to place the probe into just one carboy, connecting the two Fermwraps into a powerstrip to the Ranco.  Since the 2 carboys would be very close in total volume, same material, etc.  the temperatures would be fairly close and therefore 2 Rancos would be overkill.  Whaddaya think? 

9

Equipment and Software / Cleaning a Cold plate and a Therminator

« on: October 29, 2011, 08:10:01 AM »

I haven't fired up the stainless steel draft cold plate in while and I am looking for some advice on what products to use to ensure a solid deep clean.  I only have Star San and Iodine on hand. 

Also, I have seen posts on placing the Therminator in the oven after multiple uses. I have been thorough with my post chilling maintenance, but would like to do a nice invasive nuking of the chiller now that it has been used 10 times or so.  For those of you who bake it, for how long and at what temps?  Any downsides?  Can the cold plate go in too? 

Thanks in advance.....

10

All Grain Brewing / Mash bed temp

« on: October 23, 2011, 07:39:09 AM »

Today I had to adjust the mash bed with cool water since the strike was a little hotter than usual (mash bed at t=0 was 160 F).  A while ago I had some issues with the standard lab thermometers (3 thermometers were giving me vastly different readings) so I bought a digital thermometer probe.  The probe is nice since I can monitor different depths of the mash bed. However, today I noticed that I was getting readings between 160 and 140 F depending on the bed.  I stirred the bed on multiple occasions (more than I would like), sealed the tun and waited.  I figured that the bed would adjust to a semi-uniform temperature.  45 mins in right now and it hasnt.  The variability improved somewhat (143-156).  I had never noticed this before, but might have been because I used lab thermometers which cant be buried to different depths while giving a reading. 

So my question is, is there is inherent variability in the mash bed (other specifics: rubber maid cooler, 30 lbs of malt), or is this an effect of fiddling with the strike water.  If there is the inherent problem with differences in the mash bed temp, do you measure temp from a specific location or depth (e.g. middle of the tun, 4" deep) or do you look for an average temp across your measurements to fall into the 150-155 range?   I would imagine that the size (lbs of malt) and shape of the container matter too.

11

Equipment and Software / Looking for styrofoam containers for carboys

« on: September 09, 2011, 10:06:03 AM »

I was given some used 6.5 gal carboys (a decade ago) that were contained in a two piece styrofoam container.  I imgine it is what they originally were shipped in. I think that they are really handy- never worry about breaking the carboy when setting it down.  Over the years, with water and wort spilling down the sides they have become uncleanable (and down right nasty).  Does anyone know of a place where I could get a new set?

12

Yeast and Fermentation / Mr Malty Pitching Rate Calculator for Washed Yeast

« on: May 02, 2011, 09:38:16 AM »

I am wondering about how to use the Mr. Malty calculator for washed yeast.  Should I treat it like liquid yeast or slurry?

The reason I ask is that I have been washing my yeast and storing it for up to two months.  I store it in 2000 mL Ball jars- the yeast portion ends up being about 400-500 mL.  The final product looks like a massive White Labs vial. The online calculator says that the liquid yeast is 54% viable after 2 months, and the yeast slurry is only 10% viable.  I assume that the washed yeast is the slurry.  However, I have seen no ill effects of time to ferment or attentuation that would be indicative of 10% viability.

Secondly, if washed yeast is somehow different from a vial of yeast, what magic is done to increase the viability? 

13

General Homebrew Discussion / Surface Sterilization of Dry Hops

« on: March 14, 2011, 02:31:56 PM »

I am frequent dry hopper.  Something that I always do that I learned in my days of commercial brewing is to "surface sterilize" (for lack of a better term) the hops.  I basically bring a pot of water to a boil, drop the hops in, and essentially nuke any nasties, before adding to the secondary.  Then Iput the hops in the carboy, and let the hops cool before racking on to the hops.  At the brewery we would place the hops into a bag, place the bag in a grant, and run boiling water over the bag for a few minutes before adding to the secondary.

After doing this 50+ times at home, I began to question if this is necessary.  Any thoughts, pro or con?

14

Yeast and Fermentation / Overchilled wort + Yeast

« on: March 01, 2011, 09:41:38 AM »

I inadvertently overchilled my wort (48^o F) when using my Therminator for the first time (that thing is amazing....too amazing).  I brought the carboys into a nice warm room, but fermentation (even with a nice starter) didnt seem to be at the activity level (airlock activity) that I am used to until 36-48 hours in. 

Any issues or off flavors associated with a lag like this? It is an IPA, OG 1.068, plenty hoppy. I would expect that any nasties that may have been in the air would also not be active at that low range.   

15

Equipment and Software / Drilling through my kettle .....

« on: February 14, 2011, 08:52:14 PM »

I will be drilling through my SS kettle to attach a weldless valve kit so that I can begin to use my Therminator. 

I have all the equipment ready to go, including my titanium nitride step bit, but am trying to solicit advice from someone who has done this before proceeding.  I keep putting off the operation thinking that I am about to wreck a perfectly good kettle.

I have a 18 V cordless drill, but what speeds should I run it at?

Did the finished hole require smoothing?  If so, with what?

What did you use for cutting fluid?  I dont want to have greases in the kettle or anything that could be problematic.  I am not looking to use the bit again if that matters (i.e. if I dont need to use cutting fluid?).

Thanks

Ben