Messages

1

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Pin lock VS Ball Lock

« on: May 10, 2013, 03:14:27 PM »

Personally I wouldn't bother with 2.5 or 3 gallon kegs unless space requirements absolutely require it. you can put 2.5 or 3 gallons of beer in a 5 gallon keg but not vice versa.

Generally, at least from what I have seen they are comparable prices wise.

+1

2

Equipment and Software / Re: Oxygen aeration with tank

« on: February 19, 2013, 12:31:17 PM »

I just bought an aeration pump from Norther Brewer with flex tubing.  Glad I saw this string and am looking at the wand.  In regards to use, how long does it take to aeerate a 5 gallon batch and do you move the stone around every few minutes to different spots in the bucket?

I aerate for 60 seconds for a normal brew and 90 seconds for a high gravity brew.  Yes, I move the stone around as I go.

Dave

Thanks.  That's awesome, I can't wait to use mine this weekend!

3

Equipment and Software / Re: Oxygen aeration with tank

« on: February 19, 2013, 12:20:51 PM »

I just bought an aeration pump from Norther Brewer with flex tubing.  Glad I saw this string and am looking at the wand.  In regards to use, how long does it take to aeerate a 5 gallon batch and do you move the stone around every few minutes to different spots in the bucket?

4

The Pub / Re: Northern Brewer... shipping... Argh.

« on: September 20, 2012, 04:03:55 PM »

Oh, and Keeler and Dawson left NB, so it looks like we won't be seeing them in BTV anymore. Big bummer there.

Keeler and Dawson left?  Starting their own shop maybe?

5

The Pub / Re: Northern Brewer... shipping... Argh.

« on: September 20, 2012, 04:02:02 PM »

I order from them several times a year and have always had good delivery service, however, it was when they used FedEx.  My first order when they switched to UPS came all banged up. Fortunately everything was accounted for.  My second order is supposed to arrive tomorrow per UPS tracking so we'll see.  Not a big box, just some hardware for a keezer build, but if it doesn't show up on time it's gonnna screw up my schedule build time.

6

Beer Travel / Re: Boulder again

« on: September 20, 2012, 11:32:58 AM »

I really enjoy Upslope.  Like Avery they typically have beers on tap that are not available outside the taproom which always include a couple of barrell aged beers which they do a great job on.  And their GABF gold medal winning pumpkin is out and on tap. Their tap room is North Boulder right where 28th and Broadway intersect.

7

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What was your last change in your procedure that you feel was beneficial?

« on: August 24, 2012, 12:29:55 PM »

My last change in procedure was to eliminate two pumps from my regular brewing activities. I got rid of a sub-pump used to recirc ice-water through my IC in the warm-weather months and the march pump for general recirculation and transfer of wort.

Now I just use frozen 20oz PET (soda) bottles to chill the wort down to ale or lager temps. Have found it to be more effective and just as fast if not quicker in cooling the wort down to desired pitching temps!

Through these changes I have accomplished savings in time and effort and have removed the need to make ice, and use a cooler/bucket, two pumps and corresponding hose. I no longer have to move, hook-up or clean these particular pieces of equipment. Also there has been a reduction in mess and spilled wort or water.

I've thought of using frozen soda bottles.  I live in CO and my water temp out of the hose is mid 70's right now so my IC will only cool down to about 80-85 after 20 minutes or so (5 gallon batches).  I've had to close it up and put it in one of my fridges to bring down to pitching temp but that actually takes longer than you would think.

How many bottles do you use?

Ten 20oz for 6 gallons.

Thank you.  I'm going to try it.

8

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What was your last change in your procedure that you feel was beneficial?

« on: August 21, 2012, 01:41:26 PM »

My last change in procedure was to eliminate two pumps from my regular brewing activities. I got rid of a sub-pump used to recirc ice-water through my IC in the warm-weather months and the march pump for general recirculation and transfer of wort.

Now I just use frozen 20oz PET (soda) bottles to chill the wort down to ale or lager temps. Have found it to be more effective and just as fast if not quicker in cooling the wort down to desired pitching temps!

Through these changes I have accomplished savings in time and effort and have removed the need to make ice, and use a cooler/bucket, two pumps and corresponding hose. I no longer have to move, hook-up or clean these particular pieces of equipment. Also there has been a reduction in mess and spilled wort or water.

I've thought of using frozen soda bottles.  I live in CO and my water temp out of the hose is mid 70's right now so my IC will only cool down to about 80-85 after 20 minutes or so (5 gallon batches).  I've had to close it up and put it in one of my fridges to bring down to pitching temp but that actually takes longer than you would think.

How many bottles do you use?

9

Beer Travel / Re: Colorado and Utah Trip?

« on: August 13, 2012, 12:40:42 PM »

Funkwerks would be a good visit although I don't seem to think they serve any Crooked Stave there.
Equinox in DT Fort Collins is a great location and good beer
Left Hand is worth a trip.

Also to consider:
Liquids and Solids - it's Oskar Blues restaurant in Longmont.  Not only do they have good food and all OB beers but a huge tap list of quality craft beer

I would try to stop in Boulder - I would hit up Avery's tap room.  Not huge fan of thier regular line up but am a big fan of the seasonals plus they typically have a few tap handles of stuff that they don't bottle

Upslope in Boulder.  Small operation right now and only can 4 year around beers but always have 4-5 taps of great beer that is only available in the tap room.  Was there a week ago and they had two barell/whiskey aged beers that were great.

10

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Blew the lid on my fermenting bucket - is it salvageable?

« on: August 07, 2012, 09:09:05 AM »

Don't worry. Open fermentation isn't the bugbear everyone thinks it is. I always just lay the lid on top of the bucket and no air-lock. Last batch the beer tried to crawl out of the fermenter but the lid just burped and some yeast flowed down the sides. No big deal except cleaning the fermenter will take a few minutes more.

Cool.  That's good to know.  I guess it's similar concept when I see videos of brewers just placing foil over the tops of carboys during primary.

Do you leave the lid loose during the entire time in primary or do you tighten it down once primary has subsided?

11

Yeast and Fermentation / Blew the lid on my fermenting bucket - is it salvageable?

« on: August 07, 2012, 08:34:34 AM »

Brewed a sweet stout on Saturday and used an airlock instead of a blow off tube which I should have know better not to do but anyway, came home yesterday and the lid was blown off.  I figure the top could not have been off more than 12 hrs.  The beer seemed to still be fermenting actively.  I put a clean/sanitized lid on top and sealed it back up.

Has this ever happened where the beer still turned out good or is the chance for contamination/oxidation too high?

Thanks.

12

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Is Mr. Malty dependable?

« on: July 17, 2012, 02:21:25 PM »

Thanks everybody!

13

Yeast and Fermentation / Is Mr. Malty dependable?

« on: July 17, 2012, 12:17:31 PM »

I'm brewing my first lager this weekend and wanted to run Mr. Malty's recommendations by the forum readers to make sure I'm building the best starter I can. 

Here's the info:
Beer:               Oktoberfest
O.G.:               1.058
Size:               5 gallons
Stirplate:          Yes - 2l E flask

Mr. Malty says a 1.8 liter starter with two smack packs (Wyeast Oktoberfest 2633)using a stir plate.  I'm assuming that this is the day before brewing or in the 12 to 18 hrs before pitch.

Does this look like it'll work?  I have a friend that I brew with who, for some reason, is always nervous about over pitching and always builds dinky little starters.  But based on the Mr. Malty I need 404 or so billion cells and the Wyeast packs should have 80-90 billion viable cells so I don't think I'm at risk of building too big a starter especially for a lager.

Thanks

14

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Consensus on racking out of primary?

« on: May 14, 2012, 01:34:43 PM »

Here's part of what John Palmer said in the Ask the Experts section of the AHa website...(full text at http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/pages/lets-brew/ask-the-experts/john-palmer?cid=wr6B8CL9lj0q%2bJT6ImywRQ%3d%3d&redirect=http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/pages/lets-brew/ask-the-experts/john-palmer if you're a member)

"Therefore I, and Jamil and White Labs and Wyeast Labs, do not recommend racking to a secondary fermenter for ANY ale, except when conducting an actual second fermentation, such as adding fruit or souring. Racking to prevent autolysis is not necessary, and therefore the risk of oxidation is completely avoidable. Even lagers do not require racking to a second fermenter before lagering"

I almost never use a secondary.  I decide on a batch by batch basis if I need it and I alost never do.  I have found no negative impact on beer quality by not using a secondary and it's a heck of a lot easier!  Since you have a conical and can dump yeast and trub, I can't see why you'd even consider it.

What about dry hopping?  Can you do that in primary or is that a qualifier for secondary?

15

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Supplier...Stir plate...Erlenmeyer flask

« on: April 23, 2012, 03:56:08 PM »

This is a list of the materials I used. I'm not selling these things, I'm just giving a little helpful advice.

1 Computer fan of the 12 VDC variety 120 mm about $7.00
3 Rare earth magnets 35 lbs per pull, 1 for the keeper and 2 for the fan. Cost $3.35 each
1 Stir bar Cost $5.00
1 Potentiometer, 2,000 ohms Cost $5.00 
1 LM317 voltage regulator Cost $3.50
1 resistor, 330 ohms 4 pack Cost $3.00
1 capacitor, 0.1 mf 2 pack Cost $$3.50
1 Project box. Cost $7.00
1 12 volt transformer Cost $3.50
1 plastic dial for the pot  $3.50
That's a total of over $50.00 You can get one made and sent to you for that price.

Without the right resistor, capacitor, voltage regulator, and potentiometer you won't be able to control the RPMs and you'll throw the stir bar to the side of your flask.

Now I know that some people have some of this stuff laying around so you might as well put it to good use. Also, these are Radio Shack prices so if you hunt you can probably find it cheaper.

+1
Just received my stirplate from stirstarter.com ($45)  Haven't used it yet for a starter but did play with my 2L flask and it worked well with various amounts of water.  It arrived about 3 days after I ordered it (live in CO) and I read some really good reviews about performance and customer service in the forum.