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Messages - veldy

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1
All Grain Brewing / New to all grain. Need help with set up
« on: May 10, 2012, 06:57:20 pm »
So I just bought a place with plenty of space to start all grain brewing. I have read a lot of articles and looked at many different set ups but want to know what I would need for the basics. As much as I would like something badass and tricked out I just want something that will allow me more control of my beer.

I have been brewing extract with specialty grains in my apartment for almost a year now and while the beer taste great I would like to take the next step into this obsession.

Even if you just show me a link to a good site with information or your own set up that would be awesome. And about how much do you think it would cost to get a "starter" set up that I can upgrade easily?

Thanks a bunch.

I second the link to Denny's site.  Also consider John Palmer's site.  http://howtobrew.com/section3/index.html

2
Interesting idea!  I also breadboard rather than shield in most cases, but I am new yet and haven't soldered any more permanent solutions.  I am working with a DHT11 (I am not sure that I like it much on the netduino, but it works for general humidity and temperature) and standard analogs thermistors for fermentation.  I like the scale idea for kegs too! 

Veldy

3
I am interested in the Raspberry Pi as well.  Keep us updated if you get one.

I have a couple of arduinos around the house that I enjoy playing with.  I mostly used them for measuring temp, humidity, or keg weight.

What shield or configuration are you using for keg weight?

4
All Grain Brewing / Re: Question About Batch Sparging
« on: April 24, 2012, 05:32:50 pm »
Frankly, I don't notice any flavor, body or aroma differences between batch and fly sparging and frankly I highly doubt I would with a no-sparge either.

Veldy
P.S. I used a fly sparge for about fifteen years and only switched to batch sparge full time last fall.

5
All Grain Brewing / Re: Re: Chloramine
« on: April 22, 2012, 07:23:07 pm »

Is this the same sulfate as is found in gypsum and commonly added to brewing liquor? 

Campden tablets are sulfites and gypsum is sulfate.  They are not at all the same in brewing.

Veldy

6
All Grain Brewing / Re: Re: Batch sparging specifics
« on: April 22, 2012, 07:10:52 pm »
I do #1 but my sparge water is usually around 185 -190 F.

I'm going to try a mashout step next time, then sparge like I normally do to see if I can get any increase in efficiency.  I am consistantly coming in just under 70%.  It may work or it may not, but thought it was worth a shot.

If you are trying to increase your efficiency, take a look at your crush; especially if you batch sparge.  I batch sparge and hit almost exactly 75% efficiency every time.  I don't brew much above 1.075 gravity though or I suspect it might drop.

Veldy

7
All Grain Brewing / Re: Grain Mill
« on: April 22, 2012, 06:55:44 pm »
The Monster Mill is my preference, but with three gallon batches, I would get the cheapest mill of the three that you have listed.  I had a JSP for years and the only reason that I bought the Monster Mill (three roller) is because our cat knocked down my old mill and broke it.  The axle was slightly stripped from using a drill (this doesn't seem to be a problem with the Monster), so I decided that a replacement was in order instead of fixing the old mill.  They are all exceptional!

Veldy
P.S.  I still brew in the kitchen too.  I use two burners on the gas range and boil 7.5-8 gallons routinely.

8
All Grain Brewing / Re: Re: Mash thickness question
« on: April 22, 2012, 04:47:39 pm »
Is it true a thick mash produces a fuller bodied beer? If so what would be considered a thick mash?

If it produces more body in the beer I suspect this might be caused by hot spots and perhaps dough balls in the mash.  I personally haven't experienced this and usually mash around 1.25 to 1.33 qt/lb regardless of style.

Veldy

9
All Grain Brewing / Re: Re: Grain Mill
« on: April 22, 2012, 04:43:43 pm »

I use one of those also...the adjustable version.  I've been using it for maybe 12 years, and the friend who co owns it and I have run well over 700 batches of grain through it.  Still works great.

That is about a batch per week...that is a lot of brewing!

Veldy

10
All Grain Brewing / Re: Re: Grain Mill
« on: April 22, 2012, 04:38:33 pm »
I'm looking to add a grain mill to my set up so that I can start buying bags of grain.  I'm currently doing 3 gallon batches and will eventually start doing 5 gallon batches.  Any suggestions on what grain mill to get?  Thanks!

Monster mill!

Having said that, I would spend your money on getting to full volume boils (presumably five gallons post boil is your goal).  Buy a ten gallon kettle and possibly a burner if you can't use your own range or don't want to.

Veldy

11
All Grain Brewing / Re: Metal rod for measuring volume
« on: April 22, 2012, 04:32:38 pm »
I use a typical brewing plastic spoon and marked water levels with a sharpie!

http://www.monsterbrew.com/Prod_PlasticSpoon.cfm

+1

Veldy

12
All Grain Brewing / Re: Metal rod for measuring volume
« on: April 22, 2012, 04:30:18 pm »
Question for the forum:

I am a relatively new all grain brewer and to this point I have been "eyeballing" volumes in my keggle.  Naturally, this has given me mixed result so I want to create i measuring stick taht I can notch/mark at different volumes.  I found a metal rod in my basement that would be perfect for this if I cleaned it up.  It appears to be some sort of generic steel. 

The question is if this metal would have any noticable effect on the beer.  I know its probably not the ideal material, but since it would not contact the wort for very long, would I be OK? 

Thanks

You generally don't want exposed iron, so if you are using an iron or steel (stainless is fine) rod then I would avoid it. 

My solution is simple; I use a long handle plastic spoon and I just drew graduation marks on it with a marker at half gallon increments.  Every ten or fifteen brews I will darken the marks.

Veldy

13
Yeast and Fermentation / Boiling in an erlenmeyer flask
« on: April 21, 2012, 09:10:24 pm »
I use a gas stove and still scorch the starter if I heat in the flask. 

Give it a good swirl every couple of minutes until the DME is dissolved.

I always heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat and after a couple of minutes, add the DME.  The wait avoids a sudden boil over.  I never add heat again until completely dissolved.  I still would catch  overly darkened wort, even black specs, if I applied even low heat to the flask.  I know that is precisely what a flask is for, but I just moved to a pan and never looked back. 

Veldy

14
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Re: Boiling in an erlenmeyer flask
« on: April 21, 2012, 07:48:50 pm »
I have two stir plates being built, and I'll be ordering a couple of 2L flasks shortly.  My kitchen stove is electric, so, is it advisable to put my flasks in a water bath for boiling?  How should I proceed with this?

I use a gas stove and still scorch the starter if I heat in the flask.  I just use a stainless pot and cool it in a water bath right in the pot.  I just pour it in the flask when cool (I don't bother with O2 since I use a stir plate, but I do use nutrient).  Spray with Star-san at every opportunity and all will be well. ;)

Veldy

15
I'm considering going to a stir plate.  Is there a preferred source for the plate and flask?

Midwest supplies has a great stir plate that I use and love!  Stir-plate 3000.  I stir 5L lager starters in it with no difficulty at all.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYDCRgClu4s&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Veldy

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