Messages

1

Equipment and Software / Re: Zip ties in the brew kettle

« on: February 17, 2013, 10:37:31 PM »

Not 100% sure how it will hold up in the boil, but I have two strings of stainless nuts in my mash tun to weight down my plastic manifold inside the cooler.   They have been there for 3 years now with no issues.

Also, I used to do work in the injection molding field.  The plastic for most zip ties, does not begin to get soft until 350 F or so.  With that in mind, it should be more than safe in the kettle.  I would be more worried about the thinner material of the nylon bags than the nylon tie wrap.

Good luck and enjoy!

2

All Grain Brewing / Re: is my theory sound?

« on: January 29, 2013, 09:10:48 PM »

I think you have two seperate issues... 1st beer was just plain watery with a FG of .007.   The other beer was not really thin but felt thin because you extracted extra tannins. (at least that is what I find on my system) The tannins are making the mouthfeel more dry.  I am guessing that   you would likely have been better off to have a less efficient extract. 

In my experience, anything above 80% efficieny gets you a less  malty beer. (given the same final gravity).  I know some people would argue... and with their system they may be right, but on my system, too much efficiency gets you some subtle changes in malt flavor, and in some cases, changes in mouth feel.

On second look, the second recipe also has roasted grains..which will give a slightly drier, more acidic mouth feel. (similar effect to the high efficiency)

If you keep getting great efficiency, just adjust your recipe to have some extra long chain sugars (dextrin for instance or cara pils)  If you are still dialing in your mashing process.... check your efficiencies and try to get them to come out similar from batch to batch.  Once you do that, you can adjust recipies to fit your system.

Good luck!

3

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: The Lesser of two ferment temp evils

« on: January 29, 2013, 07:38:05 PM »

Thanks brutha.  I was leaning toward your camp.  The proprietor of one of my LHBS's told me he would put it on the first floor, as I wouldn't get esters otherwise.  I gave  him a weird look when he gave his answer.

I am in the camp of your LHBS.  It is my experience that the ester production takes place in the early stages of fermentation, largely when the yeast is multiplying   I have actually had good luck with removing my lagers after high krausen from the fridge and had no noticeable negative effects. 

So if you are looking for esters....you may want to place it upstairs.... just my two cents.

4

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast Strain Development with Subsequent Generations

« on: December 10, 2011, 11:53:41 AM »

I am wondering if the cold crash may be causing the yeast to express some tendancies after many generations... (kind of grasping at straws)

One other idea I had was to listin to the Can You Brew It podcast programs with Rouge ale beers featured.  They do pretty good brewer interviews on that show...and I think they talked a lot about how they treat the yeast from batch to batch.  You may be able to get some info on how many generations the brewery tends to use the yeast, and what they are looking for when choosing to go with a new pitch instead of a re-pitch.  They may even go into their re-pitching practices on that one. (if i recall correctly).  Hopefully , with a little time invested in listening to the program, you can get some other ideas on what may be the root of the drift.

Good luck

5

Ingredients / Re: Protein rest for Golden Promise?

« on: December 05, 2011, 11:48:17 AM »

I do, however, I do not think it is needed.   

All my beers follow a similar mash schedule...just to keep my habits up and I am familiar with my process. Since a few of my beers do better with a protein rest, I do it for all. 

I have tried golden promise in a few beers (not usually german's though) and I did not find a difference between with and without the protien rest.

So in my opinion, it is up to you!

6

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Thermowell

« on: December 01, 2011, 01:27:53 PM »

As stated prev. in this string...the fermenter will change temp more slowly than the air.  The air temp being 54 compared to 51 for the beer is not significant.  Yes, at 54, the outside air is slowly heating the beer...but it would take a day or two at that temperature differential to see a difference in wort.   So no worries.

Essentially by putting your temp sensor in the beer, you will find your fridge will cycle less often, but for longer times compared to keeping the air a constant temp.    I have not found a significant difference in beer temp stabilty with the probe inside the beer or in the air.  HOWEVER, in my setup, I only have a single fermentor in the fridge at a time.  I imagine if I had three kegs of beer along with the fermentor, and I was sensing air... then I would find the fermentor fluctuating a lot more.

Either way, enjoy the fruits of your labor!

7

Equipment and Software / Re: fermenters

« on: December 01, 2011, 06:03:04 AM »

Look up "Gamma Seal" in google.

Pick your favorite shop.... (even Amazon has them)

8

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WL029

« on: November 18, 2011, 08:30:54 PM »

I agree with what euge has said...I think it would work great!   The only downside is the yeast is a bit temermental.  I have gone to always creating a starter...even when using slurry from a prev. batch.  I then watch the fermentation of the starter.  If the yeast acts the least bit funny in the starter...I get a new vial and put that into a starter to wake it up.  In eaither case, I try to pitch the starter into a beer within a day or two after the starter finishes out.  Otherwise, I think 029 goes into a deep sleep and takes a while to wake up...resulting in very long lag times.

Either yeast sounds good...but he 029 sounds really interesting!

9

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Competition - Bottle Condition? or Keg and Bottle?

« on: November 17, 2011, 06:01:38 AM »

I switched from bottle conditioning to keg/bottle fill this past year.  With the beers that I entered with the thought that they could win awards, I got awards every 1 in 5 with bottle conditioned, and every 1 in 6 with kegged. 

HOWEVER, the comments I received on many non-award winners suggested that I lost carbonation in the keg/bottle process and that likely had some impact on a few not winning awards.

Moral of the story: if you make good beer, it will win no matter how you carbonate it.  AND if you change your process, it will likely take you a while to learn how to master the new proces and it may imact your beer in the short term.

I would say enter the beer either way.  Getting the judge's comments have really helped me dial in my beers to be better!

Good luck!

10

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WLP San Diego Super Yeast (user update)

« on: November 15, 2011, 08:18:25 PM »

I think your suggestion on gallon fermenters (or perhaps a 12 gallon batch in 3 different plastic buckets as fermenters) would be an interesting comparison - WLP 029 in one, WLP 090 in another and something like US-05 in the third.  Temperatures for each would be key - what would you do each of them at?

I have used both 029 and US-05 at mid-50's with good results...

I agree 029 at 56 to 58F.... Us-05  I have only ever gone as low as 62F(It still fermented plenty fast, so lower is possible).

As for 090... I have not done a low temp batch yet.  Maybe around Christmas I will have the time to drip a few yeasts into gallon jugs and see what happens.   


Any one have two more yeasts to comapre?  I can compare 5 or 6 different types at a time...

11

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WLP San Diego Super Yeast (user update)

« on: November 12, 2011, 08:49:26 PM »

One other thing I noticed this week with WLP090....

The yeast was 1/4 of the cake from a prev batch that I fed 2L of starter wort on a stir plate, let ferment out , stored in fridge for three weeks, pulled it out, decanted beer, fed it 2L of starter work and hit it with air from a pump/airstone for 15 minutes every 4 hours over a 12 hour period.  (so 4 hits of air)  fermentation looked normal but....

When I tasted the starter, it tasted like a belgian!?!?

I wonder what caused that?  I have pitched it into a porter any way...we will see if it turns out ok.

12

All Grain Brewing / Re: Vienna Lager (pic)

« on: November 12, 2011, 08:15:31 PM »

Looks awsome!

I like the hand full of pale chocolate.  I just tried that same addition in my last batch.  I was drinking mine last week (brewed in July) and I was surprised how much I liked it over the batches I have done without.

Enjoy it, but make sure to let it lager for a while.  It is hard to do but it is worth it!

13

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Pitching 2 Smack Packs vs Creating a Starter

« on: November 11, 2011, 11:23:29 AM »

A couple of variables that are not taken into account with common yeast cell counts:

1.) Yeast "from the factory" were grown in different conditions that in a brewery and have large glycogen reserves and are in a healthier point of life than if it was harvested from a batch of beer, so they are able to reproduce faster/better and smaller counts may be accetable (assuming the number of viable cells are the same)

2.) Yeast from the factory may have had a slightly different nutrient enviornment to grow in than beer, so it may take some adjustment for fermenting beer, meaning increased lag time compared to yeast propogated in a wyeast package or starter or beer.

However, in all cases, age and storage conditions are much more significant in impact on viable yeast cells than in the two points I have made.... 

One great resource is Mr.Malty .com. Jamil has created a utility to compare the number of smack packs to yeast starters to help gauge consistent pitching rates.   I highly recommend it!

good luck!

14

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WLP 940 Mex Lager throwing Sulfur

« on: November 10, 2011, 09:06:30 AM »

Mexican Lager and the sulfer small you have is common.  As you noticed, with proper aging and a little agitation with CO2, the sulfer dissipates.   

I am enviouse of your Mexican Lager Yeast, I started my lager routine when it came out seasonally many months back and after 6 brews I decided it was time to let it go.  By then it was no longer available at my LHBS.  I was not having any noticeable issues with it yet, but I did not want to roll the dice one more time.   

In my opinion, this strain makes the best Vienna Lagers... the malt really comes through nicely and the hop flavor is clean and complimentary to the malt.

Keep it going as long as you can!

15

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Too Little Time for a Cream Ale?

« on: November 10, 2011, 07:05:51 AM »

What I have done for a two week Cream Ale is pitched on top of a yeast cake from prev. batch... (cal ale in this case...although I prefer a kolsch yeast..but that will take too long).   Ferment at room temp (65 to 70F in my basement) for 8 days, check gravity to make sure it has bottomed out... transfer to keg and then add BIOFINE CLEAR, put it on the CO2 in the fridge and give it two or three days.  Biofine works similar to gelatin or other finings, but acts pretty quick and is easy to use.   

No biofine clear? use other finings.   You may even be able to get away with just cold crashing the yeast, but I find the yeast flavor is still high after just two weeks if I do not use finings.  If you are going to just cold crash, maybe try an english strain that flocks out quicker at cold temps.

No yeast cake?  Make a big starter or use two tubes/packs of yeast. 

Note that with the finings, the first one to three glasses of beer may be cloudy due to all the yeast settleing out.  After pulling one to three glasses, things should clear up.

Good luck!