Messages

1

All Grain Brewing / Re: Adding melanodin malt

« on: August 22, 2012, 11:04:52 AM »

Melanoidin is basically the German equivalent to aromatic malt, isn't it?

Sort of, they are just similar. Best makes one of each. Their melanoidin is not a strong as Weyermann's. Briess aromatic is not even close. You have to use the stuff before you really know what it is.

2

Beer Recipes / Re: Amber Ale Recipe--Please Critque

« on: May 08, 2012, 05:47:56 PM »

It should make a nice ale but it's more of a English bitter than an American amber. You'll probably want some more IBUs.  The amber malt and biscuit might be a bit redundant.  It does seem to be to style of a ESB.
http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style08.php#1c

3

All Grain Brewing / Re: Color contribution from decoction mashing?

« on: May 06, 2012, 03:09:20 PM »

Kristen England said it was 2-3 EBC.
http://forum.northernbrewer.com/viewtopic.php?p=716196#p716196

4

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Big Brew

« on: May 06, 2012, 11:41:31 AM »

I brewed an American Stout.




Keith Brewed an Vienna.


This was at Zion Canyon Brewing where Kieth works. 10 gallons total and not on the list.

5

Ingredients / Re: Midnight Wheat and Blackprinz

« on: April 28, 2012, 02:40:01 PM »

I think in very small amounts any of the dark malts make red.  I've been using midnight wheat. It does have some roastyness but less than carafa special II.

6

Beer Recipes / Re: Light Ale Recipe

« on: April 26, 2012, 07:18:20 PM »

I know Miller uses corn, Bud uses rice. No idea about what Coors or Busch use. I normally would use corn but I want the lightest flavour profile I can get and although I like corn flavor in a cream ale, I'm hoping to stay completely neutral. Hence the rice.

I've made cream ales with 33% rice and it surprised me with flavor. It was regular white rice with a cereal mash. I think you have to use that much to really taste much difference from corn and rice. AB uses brown rice. They get the broken pieces that don't look as good for eating--brewery grade.

7

Beer Recipes / Re: Light Ale Recipe

« on: April 25, 2012, 09:27:30 AM »

WLP830 is a great yeast for just about any lager. WLP840 if your shooting for Bud. Wyeast 2035 is pretty good for American styles. I just got WLP940. I brewed a light lager with it yesterday. 4.5 gallons at 1.040 and pitched an active 1.030 2L starter that I had going at 50F. My wife needs a lower calorie beer and it will be over 100F here by the time it's ready. I never made one so light before. It's really just growing yeast for my summer lagers anyway.
Here is what I put together.
http://hopville.com/recipe/1313226/lite-american-lager-recipes/el-cortador

8

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Mr Beer has really been good for home brewing

« on: April 24, 2012, 03:54:13 PM »

Now they come with a tiny can of hopped extract and a half kilo of booster (that is just brewery grade corn sugar.) The two together make 9 quarts of 1.038 wort. It comes with 2 grams of dry yeast. It's not much different than the five gallon can and kilo kits I started with.

9

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Isenglass

« on: April 24, 2012, 09:53:01 AM »

Fining is done after cropping so I wouldn't know. 

10

Beer Recipes / Re: Melanoidin malt in a Maibock

« on: February 19, 2012, 07:40:36 PM »

I like to keep it under 5% using the Wyermann Melanoidin. The Best Maltz is not quite as strong.

11

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Super Clear Beer

« on: February 15, 2012, 07:28:11 PM »

It's about yeast, proteins, tannins/phenols, and starch. Start with a mash suited to the malts and with a complete conversion. Sparge at the right pH and temp. Get good hot and cold breaks in the kettle. Kettle finings can help with the cold break. Break just means making proteins insoluble.  Some more proteins will broken from solution after beer is cooled as chill haze and will slowly fall to the bottom. They will hit the bottom faster in a shallow container (like a bottle.) Gelatin or isinglass have a ionic charge that binds to yeast and some proteins adding mass so they will fall faster to the bottom. Polyclar has the opposite charge and can get other proteins and tannins. As long as you don't have starch in time all beers will clear. Fining or filtering just speeds up the process.

Extract brewers have a lot less of these problems to worry about. The extract manufacturer took care of most of them. Most steeping grains do have some starch though.

12

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Banana and Clove. Best yeast to bring out those flavors

« on: February 14, 2012, 04:52:34 PM »

I finally got around to packaging my weiss biers today. There is not much banana in the Hefeweizen but the dunkel is loaded with banana. The grain bills are quite a bit different but I know it's all form the pitch rates. The mash schedule and fermenting temperature were the same.

Playing with Wyeast's calculator it seems I pitched the hefe at 9 million cells per milliliter and the dunkel at only 3 million. I believe that just one pack of yeast (or a very small starter just to prove the yeast) is the best way to get banana. Chris white said in his new book that 5 million per milliliter is best for hefes and some British ales.

I didn't notice any clove phenols. Maybe it will come out when it's conditioned.

13

Ingredients / Re: Muntons English Pilsner Malt

« on: February 12, 2012, 09:12:32 PM »

Well the Bairds tastes more like American Pilsner than Continental. 

14

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: S-189 for a schwarzbier?

« on: February 07, 2012, 07:31:23 PM »

I don't think I will be using s-189 again. W 34/70 is just so much better at so many styles than W 195.

15

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: White Labs Zurich Lager yeast WLP885

« on: February 07, 2012, 07:29:22 PM »

That should be over 30 million cells per milliliter into five gallons. That's a crap load of yeast.