« on: December 31, 2009, 08:56:56 pm »
Thanks again Kai ... I'll do the double batches and see how they turn out.
The help is much appreciated!
The help is much appreciated!
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Is the CaCO3 hardness or alkalinity? ..359 as Hardness and 346 as alkalinity
Either way you have very alkaline water and I see how it can be a problem for anything below ~15 SRM.
To brew a 12 SRM amber with this water and about 1.5 qt/lb mash thickness I estimate a mash pH of about 5.7. It might work but it is on the upper end. To get you closer to 5.5 you coud dilute with 50% R/O water or add 0.02 % of the water volume as lactic acid. For 15 qt strike water this is about 3 ml. As you probably know, I'm a noobie with only 9 months experience so I'm always looking for verification/confirmation .... I'm glad to say that I had goten the 50% RO or 3ml lactic acid... thanks!
Given that it is an ale it should not have much problem with the high calcium and magnesium content of the water. But you may actually try both and see what you like better. I know that this might be more work than you wanted to do but it will give you an idea how to best deal with your water. Very good suggestion. I have two mash tuns and two pot/burners so I will make a couple of 2.5 gallon batches (and put them in 3 gallon carboys) and compare.
Given that your water is very high in temporary hardness (low sulfate and chloride compared to Ca, Mg and alkalinity) it should also respond very well to alkalinity reduction by boiling or lime treatment. The latter is used by many breweries but a bit more involved. Okay, now you lost me (I think). Does this mean that I could boil my strike water (and then let it cool to the correct temp) and that would help also? Would this mean that I would need less RO or lactic acid?
I think 3 ml is fine. This corresponds to about 5% acid malt. Not having much data on that I would not go much beyond than amount of lactic acid or acid malt. At some point I figure that you'll taste the lactate that comes from the lactic acid.
How alkaline and hard is your water? Light lagers, for example, may not do as well with very hard water in the first place. And acid additions don't change the water hardness. They only change its alkalinity.
This is a favorite topic of mine since it is quite confusing and there are many different opinions. This article has some detail: http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=An_Overview_of_pH#pH_meters
- don’t test at mash temp since this shortens the life of your pH meter probe
- the room temp to mash temp pH shift is more like 0.2 than 0.35
- Mash pH optima are generally reported as room temp pH values and by comparing them to room temp measurements you remove the ambiguity.
- A correct room temp mash target range is 5.3 – 5.6 with the boundaries being quite fuzzy. I.e 5.2 and 5.7 should work too.
- Don’t worry what the actual mash temp pH values are.
Another thing you can try is a ferulic acid rest at 111 degrees for 20 minutes. This increases 4- vinyl-guaiacol which the yeast use to tun into the clove phenols. IME the beers that I have done a ferulic acid rest on have had a little more clove character than those that didn't. Not write home to mama more, but more none-the-less.
Most German Breweries ferment their weissbiers in the high 50s/low 60s. There are some who ferment warmer - but it will ultimately depend on the strain. My experience has always been you get a much more authentic HefeWeizen if you keep the temps on the cool side. If you want banana and clove you need to use WLP380 HefeWiezen IV. WLP300 is mostly banana.