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Messages - Kaiser

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1651
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Life of mixed Star San? Newbie
« on: November 30, 2009, 05:43:55 PM »
The foam is your friend. It keeps out bugs while you are racking. I let the foam drain for a few minutes and after that I don't worry about the foam that is left in the fermenter when I rack the wort onto it.

Kai

1652
All Grain Brewing / Re: wort quality and water ratio question
« on: November 30, 2009, 10:05:56 AM »
I presume this is a 5 gal batch size?
thanx

Yes, I updated the caption for that chart. But that only matters for the grist weight numbers that are given.

Kai

1653
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Life of mixed Star San? Newbie
« on: November 30, 2009, 08:18:46 AM »
I make a batch of Starsan every 2 or 3 months. I brew about twice a month and bottle just as often.

I love that stuff. Before I used it I was using iodophor and had to mix a fresh batch anytime I had to sanitize something. Now I always have a bucket with StarSan sanitizer around in which I keep my turkey baster for sampling. Having a sanitizer ready for use when I need it is so much easier than mixing it on demand. To sanitize a carboy or keg I don’t even fill them completely. Just using 1-2 gallons, good shaking and draining works. The only time I need to fill a keg completely and thus need 5 gal is when I purge a serving keg with CO2 by pushing the StarSan out with CO2.

I bought my bottle 3 years ago and it is about half empty now. Because of its reusability and stability StarSan is one of the cheapest and most practical sanitizers out there.

Kai

1654
All Grain Brewing / Re: undissolved vs. dissolved chalk
« on: November 29, 2009, 10:14:25 PM »
I looked a little further into the CO2 pressure needed to dissolve chalk. I took the data from Wikipedia and plotted it into chart with logarithmic x and y axes. Ther formula that approximates the data well in the range that is of interest for us is

[p in kPa] = 8.71e-8 *  [CaCO3 in ppm]^3.24

This means that there is a dramatic increase of the pressure needed as the concentration of chalk that needs to be dissolved is increased. In practical terms this limits the chalk that can be dissolved by the soda bottle or keg method to about 880 ppm and with it sets a minimum amount of water that is needed to practically dissolve the chalk. I'm adding this calculation to my spreadsheet. To dissolve that concentration of chalk about 3 bar or 45 psi of CO2 are needed. This includes the ambient pressure which means you would have to set your regulator to at least 2 bar or 30 psi.

Here is a chart I made that illustrates the relationship



It also shows the chalk that can be dissolved by the CO2 in ambient air and a pure CO2 environment at atmospheric pressure.

Kai

1655
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Life of mixed Star San? Newbie
« on: November 29, 2009, 09:30:43 PM »
I rarely test the pH of my Star San solutions. If they are still clear I trust them. Even if it gets a bit cloudy it still works. I prepare them with reverse osmosis water and think that it takes a lot of contamination to bring the pH up. Recently I started keeping the old batch of Star San around to rinse any equipment, in particular the turkey baster, before it goes into the current batch of sanitizer. This seems to keep it clear for much longer.

Kai

1656
Even though it might be true that longer boils hurt head retention, a 60 and even a 90 min boil should not lead to non existent head. The Major is correct in suggesting that you get your fermentation temp under control first. I would. however, have expected the warm fermented batch to have the a worse head retention.

Kai


1657
Dhacker is correct with respect to having consistency and being able to make the comparison you are trying to make. There are a lot of factors that affect head retention.

This being said, what you are seeing matches my expectations. Boiling coagulates proteins and the longer you boil the less head retention you will have. But I expect that effect to be less than the effect hat hops and fermentation, for exampe, have on head retention.

1658
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Water in yeast plates?
« on: November 28, 2009, 09:09:30 PM »
If the culture is old, I tend to steak them out to isolate a single cell growth. But oftentimes I just skip that step.

Kai

1659
All Grain Brewing / Re: wort quality and water ratio question
« on: November 28, 2009, 07:25:49 PM »
You're welcome. That's what we are here for.

I just had to brew a doppelbock at 1.3 qt/lb b/c I have only a 5 gal MLT. That reminded me how much more I like my 2 qt/lb standard mash thickness. :)

Kai

1660
Maybe one of the Mods here can dig it up?

I just shot off an email to see if we can add it to the downloadable Zymurgy articles.

cool. Thanks.

1661
All Grain Brewing / Re: Alpha Amylase
« on: November 28, 2009, 09:32:41 AM »
Do a Fast Ferment Test (Zymurgy Nov/Dec 2009 or http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Fast_Ferment_Test) on the pilsner wort. You want the FG of the finished beer to be the same as the FG of the FFT. This means that there are no fermentable sugars left in the beer and the beer is fully attenuated. Pilsners are generally fully attenuated and have an attenuation of 80-84%. Starting at 12 Plato this means they finish at 1.9-2.5 Plato.

You may also go away from a single infusion mash and use a step mash. 63C for 30 min, 65 C for 30 min and 72C for 30 min should give you a good attenuation.

Using artificial enzymes in mash and fermenter will have undesired consequences as the others already said. The FFT is your tool to check your fermentation performance.

Kai


1662
All Grain Brewing / Re: Slowed down my sparge,and got a boost
« on: November 27, 2009, 05:33:08 PM »
I often try to avoid this confusion by referring to "two run-offs" instead.

Slow sparging gives you better efficiency because the grain bed is rinsed more evenly. If you run off to fast, the wort and water are more likely to look for the path(s) of least resistance.

Kai

1663
I'm always aiming to blow off the kraeusen. Most of the German authors I have been reading are very ademate (spelling) about that. They say that Kraeusen that falls back into the beet  can give it a harsh bitterness. But I haven't found the opportunity to make a side by side yet. I may end up doing this as a small scale batch. Until
I can evaluate this process parameter more closely I stick with blowing off the gunk.

This is one of the cases where I want to have data to justify my process but there are other things that I'm interested in more and which I'd like to test first. Hence the lack of experimentation with this on my side. 

Kai

1664
All Grain Brewing / Re: undissolved vs. dissolved chalk
« on: November 27, 2009, 11:58:13 AM »
So for the dense folks here (that would be me) the recommended chalk additions like promash give us to get proper water mineral levels will be off as some of the chalk will stay undissolved. I guess that's why some folks add it directly to the mash.

Adding chalk to the mash or to the water w/o dissolving it is the same.

(most) Spreadsheets and water calculators will calculate the amount of undissolved chalk necessary. This calculation seems to work until about 300-400 ppm chalk concentration and it assumes that chalk contributes only half its alkalinity potential. You can check that by entering 100 ppm chalk (0.1 g in 1 l water or 0.38 g in 1 gal water). The resulting alkalinity as CaCO3 (i.e. as chalk) will only be 49 or 50 depending on the used formula. Not 100 ppm as you would expect.

While this is not as intuitive as it should be, it seems to work when it comes to predicting mash pH through residual alkalinity.

If chalk is dissolved it does not have this odd behavior and it is also able to raise the mash pH more than just 0.2-0.3 pH units over the distilled water pH of the grist. I.e. the pH that you would get with very soft water.


Quote
OTOH, if I take a carbonator cap and add my chalk in the PET bottle, throw in some distilled and gas it, the stuff will go into solution?
I take it has nothing to do with the pressure, but rather the formation of carbonic acid in the water?
Presuming I shake the snot out of the PET bottle, how long will this process take?
Please straighten me out here, thanks.

I don't exactly know why dissolved chalk behaves so much different in brewing compared to undissolved chalk. If I test the alkalinity of a dissolved and a suspended chalk solution, of the same chalk concentration, I get the same alkalinity. I.e. the neutralizing power towards an acid is the same.

The dissolved CO2 will form carbonic acid which lowers the pH and converts the carbonate of the chalk to bicarbonate. That makes the chalk much more soluble. If the concentration of chalk that should be dissolved is fairly large, simple atmospheric CO2 pressure is not enough and you need to force carbonate the water. Do that by shaking. Then let it stand and you'll notice that the liquid  starts to clear up. I still have to do some searching for a formula that gives me the minimum CO2 pressure that is needed to dissolve a given concentration of chalk.

If you want to give this a try, I'm glad to help. I also started to test my spreadsheet that allows for grist and water based mash pH prediction. I used it for the Doppelbock I brewed today and the prediction was only off by 0.01 pH units. Now that may have been luck, but for other beers in the past It has been off by less then 0.05 pH units which is the precision I was hoping for.

Kai


1665
Equipment and Software / Re: Draining the boil kettle....
« on: November 25, 2009, 08:46:14 PM »
About 30 min. If you are letting it settle in the chilled wort you'll still have some cold break in the wort. But I would not worry about that.

Kai

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