16
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: British Yeast Recommendation
« on: May 08, 2013, 08:23:16 pm »
WLP007 and a stick of butter.
Or Ringwood.
Or Ringwood.
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17
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Drinking while brewing
« on: May 07, 2013, 06:43:18 am »did i ruin my beer? is it going to taste bad?
Ruined is probably a stretch, but based on the fermentations I've done with bread yeast, I wouldn't get your hopes up as far as flavor. Another potential concern would be contamination, since standards for microbial levels in baker's yeast are relatively high. I'd give it at least a full month in the fermenter, assuming you're bottling. Having a bacterial fermentation kick off in the bottles would be a Bad Thing.
i will kegging this brew. any more advice for me?
Just tell us how it tastes.
18
Ingredients / Ginger and Belgian Style Yeast
« on: May 06, 2013, 06:37:40 am »
I want to make a ginger beer with a pronounced ginger flavour. I've read the threads on when to add and how much and I think I've settled on adding the juice sqeezed from 4 ounces in the last 10 mins of the boil as I want flavour but not heat.
But, I'm not sure of what yeast to use. I have a large pitch of the Wyeast Belgian Canadian (Unibroue) yeast. Do you think the ginger would clash with the phenols in this yeast?
But, I'm not sure of what yeast to use. I have a large pitch of the Wyeast Belgian Canadian (Unibroue) yeast. Do you think the ginger would clash with the phenols in this yeast?
19
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Taking Newly Bottled Beer on a Plane
« on: May 02, 2013, 08:43:01 am »
Or just go buy a few plastic bottles...
20
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wyeast 3711 French Saison
« on: April 29, 2013, 09:02:21 pm »
I use this yeast a lot and have never had less than 85% attenuation (1.060 down to 1.002).
21
Hop Growing / Re: Cicadas and Hop Plants
« on: April 29, 2013, 08:59:43 pm »
Cicadas feed on sap under the ground for 13 or 17 years depending on the period. Usually this is on the roots of trees. As adults, they don't feed on anything. Basically, they emerge, mate and die. So your hops are fine.
22
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Scoresheet comment... Inappropriate?
« on: April 29, 2013, 10:13:29 am »
The comment is redundant but I can't see how it's all that offensive. I just finished up a weekend of judging and there were times where I admit, I just didn't know what to say. If it had said "worst beer on the table", I could see you getting upset but the comment, although not terribly helpful was true and I don't think it would have been meant as a negative, more of a general comment as to why it didn't move forward which as I said was redundant and unnecessary but personally, I'd just ignore it and move on with your 44 beer (congrats by the way).
23
Equipment and Software / Re: Gas ball lock QD in downtown St. Louis?
« on: April 18, 2013, 06:42:32 pm »
Sorry, I'll be in St Louis next week. Good luck finding one now.
24
Equipment and Software / Re: First kit questions
« on: April 18, 2013, 06:41:37 pm »One other question related to the boil kettle size...the kit I purchased states you can use a 3.5 gallon kettle or larger. Can I get away with that size for now versus a 5 gallon? I'm just thinking about chilling the wort using ice baths at this point, and the smaller the kettle the more manageable. Thanks again to everyone!You can get away with smaller but full boil gives better hop utilization. I was doing 5 gal boils and ice baths and once I went to an immersion chiller I never went back.
I use an aluminum kettle and I love it. It's cheaper and if you're worried about using A and alzheimersl, I've never had...what was I saying again? Seriously though, don't scrub it and Al is just fine. Let it oxidize and it's as good as anything out there.
25
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 2 week Diacetyl rest?
« on: April 18, 2013, 05:54:41 pm »
I've done it. Can't say if it hurt it because I have nothing to compare to but I liked the beer I made.
26
Ingredients / Re: Cloudy Maris Otter - how to clear my EIPA
« on: April 18, 2013, 01:34:51 pm »
We can't seem to get Biofine here. I'd love to try it but you have to keep it cold so I've never brought any back from the states. I will order some Isinglass if it's not clear by next weekend because I will be in the big city for a beer judging and can hopefully grab some. Luckily I have no hardcore vegan friends with all the animal parts in this beer (sorry Jonathan).
I haven't move the beer at all since I kegged it. I wish that there was a sight glass on kegs because I have this picture of the top 6 inches being crystal clear as it slowly, slowly, slowly settles out.
Of course, if I could make enough beer that my EIPA's could sit for 6 months it probably would clear up.
I haven't move the beer at all since I kegged it. I wish that there was a sight glass on kegs because I have this picture of the top 6 inches being crystal clear as it slowly, slowly, slowly settles out.
Of course, if I could make enough beer that my EIPA's could sit for 6 months it probably would clear up.
27
Ingredients / Cloudy Maris Otter - how to clear my EIPA
« on: April 18, 2013, 12:44:07 pm »
A couple years ago someone (Bluesman???) made a comments about Munton's MO giving him cloudy beers. I've got 10 gals of English IPA made with WLP007 and Muntin MO (and a bit of C40) that just will not clear up. I make a lot of APA's with this yeast and they usually drop pretty clear pretty fast but this one just won't clear even with gelatin. It's been cold crashed for 2 weeks now.
So, short of filtering or waiting since I can't do one and am too thirsty to do the other, any idea what would help this drop clear?
So, short of filtering or waiting since I can't do one and am too thirsty to do the other, any idea what would help this drop clear?
28
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: When/how to add Brett as a secondary yeast?
« on: April 10, 2013, 12:40:18 pm »
I've had 3711 take me down to 1.002 alone.
I wait until the rapid fermentation is done and then keg. I don't worry about being perfectly clear when I siphon. I admit I'm assuming that I'm getting Brett in the beer because it shouldn't be done and floc'd out totally. Then it sits in the keg until I need it. I find that even with some yeast in the keg once it's sat for a day or two it clears fast.
Not saying I'm doing it right but I'm happy.
I wait until the rapid fermentation is done and then keg. I don't worry about being perfectly clear when I siphon. I admit I'm assuming that I'm getting Brett in the beer because it shouldn't be done and floc'd out totally. Then it sits in the keg until I need it. I find that even with some yeast in the keg once it's sat for a day or two it clears fast.
Not saying I'm doing it right but I'm happy.
29
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: When/how to add Brett as a secondary yeast?
« on: April 10, 2013, 09:52:34 am »
WLP670 is a blend that I think is very similar to what your asking about. Obviously both yeast get pitched at the same time. I think the sacc gets going fast and the Brett is slower and cleans up all the leftovers. Assuming this is true, I wouldn't think it would matter.
30
All Things Food / Re: Avocados
« on: April 07, 2013, 06:33:39 pm »Yes!
I did this one time, i put an apple and a orange in a paper bag with the avocados, and it helped them ripen faster. I guess the fruits give off some sort of chemical that helps the avocados do ripen
CHeers!
The mystery chemical is ethylene gas. Apples, pears and bananas all give it off.