Messages

46

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wild bugs & pH probe?

« on: December 23, 2011, 11:50:45 AM »

You shouldn't test the whole batch post-boil. Always draw a sample and test that. Do the same for the mash and let it cool first.

From what part of my question did you glean I test the pH hot? I made an aluminum and copper sample chiller and test at 21 c, since my pH meter has a temp prob. I do like the Everclear idea; my probe will be getting the acid alcohol treatment next time.

47

Yeast and Fermentation / Wild bugs & pH probe?

« on: December 23, 2011, 09:54:21 AM »

I'm a wild brew light weight, but I'm realizing I'm brewing more and more of them. My
question is do the brewers who manage their pH, have a wild bug dedicated pH probe?
Given the contact time and then I Starsan it; what are the risk? I cleaned and
recalibrated the probe after the Starsan routine. Will the bugs persevere?

48

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Homebrew Myths - Beersmith Holiday Episode

« on: December 23, 2011, 05:47:42 AM »

Thanks DC, I wasn't aware BeerSmith was doing podcasts. I have some downloading to do.

49

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Lacto Starter

« on: December 19, 2011, 05:50:10 AM »

What else can you do?  What do you WANT to do?  You can add cranberry or raspberry, it's up to you.

Tom, I was having a mad scientist moment; allow me to enjoy that. The question, I was asking myself.

50

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Lacto Starter

« on: December 17, 2011, 04:49:23 PM »

It's been three days since I pitched the 1 liter Lacto starter; it dropped the pH from 5.56 to 3.31. So, I did a boil
to terminate the lacto, added the hops and then the 1056. Hmm, what else can I do to this? Wring hands. Maybe
some organic cranberry, or some homegrown raspberries?

51

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Lacto Starter

« on: December 16, 2011, 06:15:29 AM »

Thanks Wild Knight and Tom for your informative response to the QUESTION OF THE THREAD. All too often,
I see people responding in an obtuse manner; with the thread dying and going unanswered. I agree with
your statements, having brewed many sour ales from blonde to black. Rather than decanting; I'm going to
match the DME as close as possible to the style and just pitch it.

52

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Lacto Starter

« on: December 11, 2011, 01:32:18 PM »

I don't have the link handy Martin, but here is what I have on Kris' comments concerning a lacto starter. I post this with all due respect to the weasel.

Mashweasel
Bacteria/yeast at a 3 parts bacteria to 1 part yeast is the pitch ratio? Did some counts on the yeast and bacteria for you all as follows: Wyeast 1007 10^9/ ml Lacto 10^6 to 10^7/ ml It’s about 100-1000 fold difference between the two. NO WHERE near the 3:1 - 5:1 yeast.

Most people don’t understand this. You will definitely need a starter for the Lacto. NO hops in the starter. I do mine at 37C (100F) shaking overnight and that works fine. If you do it at room temp, it will take longer by far.
Starter gravity - 1025-30
Culture size - 10ml to 100ml to 1L is fine
Stir plate - Y-E-S!!!
Starter and fridge - sure
Incubator - They are VERY easy to 'make'. Cardboard box, whole in the top, surround the whole with foil. ANY bare light bulb type lamp will work. I’ve used of one of those 'car work lights'...the ones with the cages. I have a PID set on mine so it doesn’t get hotter than 98F. However if you are doing the cardboard method you won’t get over 98F. Probably around 90F. Which is fine.
Yeast - Yeah, one tube or smack pack should be fine.
The funny thing is, if you use this method I’ve NEVER had a Berliner Weiss that was sour. Don’t worry about pitching to much Lacto. I repitch lacto AND yeast when I bottle condition at the same ratio 3:1, yeast/lacto.

You shouldn't be worrying about how sour your culture is, just the number of Lacto. L. delbrükii is a homofermentive strain which means its major product is lactate. Sugars (mostly glucose) are metabolized via glycolysis into pyruvate and then into lactate. I use MRS media and agar to grow my lacto for stocks. To start for a batch I'll make a starter that is half glucose and half malt extract to about 1.025 (2oz/qrt). You can go higher if you would like, 1.030-35 is fine also. I'll then put on my shaker at 200rpm at 37C overnight (16h or so). This will create more than enough lacto for you to use. The three key points again are:
1. 50% glucose
2. Stir plate or shaker ~200rpm
3. 37C, probably the most important of the 3
I'll then put them in the fridge, add a little silica-based clarifier and let them drop out. They are much wispier than yeast and don't floc near the same. Decant and add a small amount of starter (malt extract only this time) and let it go for a bit on the stir plate at room temp before you pitch; this way you’ll have plenty of lacto AND they will be ready for beer.

53

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Lacto Starter

« on: December 11, 2011, 09:20:31 AM »

I don't think you need a starter, just pitch a vial or smack pack. Unlike growing yeast for a beer lacto, pedio and the like don't need high cell counts and they don't have to have their cell walls in tact to grow. Just pitch it in and let it do its job.

I use to have that position also, until I tried mashweasel's process of utilizing a lacto starter on his Berliner Weiss. I have been doing a sour ale or two/year for the last few years and have fund that making a lacto starter significantly reduces the time required to achieve the desired level of lactic acid I'm looking for. I don't sour mash due to the unreliable flavor profile in my early attempts.

I now mash, boil (no hops) 15 minutes, cool to 100 F, pitch starter with a layer of cling film on the surface of the wort in my kettle. Then do a normal boil when my desired level of sourness has happened and then my ale yeast routine.

I'm content with my sour ales; I just want to reduce the amount of lacto starter wort in my batches.

54

Yeast and Fermentation / Lacto Starter

« on: December 11, 2011, 07:28:22 AM »

Would anyone have a tried and true process for settling lacto in a starter?

55

All Grain Brewing / Re: BIB; what does that bag look like?

« on: November 13, 2011, 10:28:30 AM »

Thanks for the replys, the guys and I do a man camp or two/year. We have been tweaking our
equipment and process accordingly. As the last two decades have went by, our camp brewing
has developed into brew camping; age and energy was/is a factor. None the less, experience
has taught use the importance of fermentation temps. We have three options; lake, stream and
dig hole to ground water based on water table elevation. Is there a lager in our camp future?
Hmm? Anyway, we have a great time enjoying brewing and the out doors. Give it a go.

56

All Grain Brewing / Re: BIB; what does that bag look like?

« on: November 07, 2011, 09:59:45 AM »

If you have a 15 gallon pot with a false bottom why bother with the bag? sounds like you have a mash tun ready to go already. Perhaps I am missing something?

A bag would allow me to remove the grain and then to do the boil in one kettle. The motivation
behind this is: Next summer we are planning on doing a 5.5 gallon all grain brew in the boundary
waters; canoe access only. We plan on brewing, fermenting, kegging/carbing and drinking it
before we return to civilization.

57

All Grain Brewing / BIB; what does that bag look like?

« on: November 07, 2011, 08:57:48 AM »

I will be giving BIB a go in a couple of weeks. What mesh would you recommend? I will
be doing it in a 15 gallon Polorware with a false bottom. So, what about the medium
nylon mesh and 18.75" x 19" at Northern Brewer? Not having seen the fine mesh, I would
think it's probably a little too fine and would risk plugging up.

58

Equipment and Software / Re: How to use a pH meter

« on: October 24, 2011, 04:05:54 PM »

Thanks once again for the info Martin. I purchased a fancy Milwaukee temp compensating pH
meter a couple of years ago. I called a Milwaukee  tech to confirm the best procedure for calibrating
the new meter. The tech stated the same info as in Martins recommendation. He also included
this:
"To insure pH electrode longevity, insure test sample temperature is 60 to 80 F.
pH electrode condition test:
1.   Use Windex blue (11.2 factory fresh pH) as a test sample, at least 2” deep.
2.   Immerse pH electrode in Windex and note how fast a stable 10 pH plus is determined.
    New pH electrode, stable reading is almost instantaneous.
    Old ph electrode, stable reading takes 2 or 3 seconds.
    Standard pH electrode life expectancy is one year.
    Write replacement date with fine point Sharpie on pH electrode body."

59

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: eZymurgy

« on: October 24, 2011, 02:55:55 PM »

Thank you, the e version is much appreciated. I do need to mention that the bottom of the pages
are cut off for me in Firefox v7. Anyone else? And, will/are the eissues downloadable?

60

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: ProMash -> BeerSmith 2

« on: July 13, 2011, 02:04:59 PM »

Thanks, I got a couple of recipes imported for the trial period. The jury is still
way out on this version. New paint and more chrome, but little has changed
under the hood; is an easy to format recipe report too much to ask for? Lots
of PTA little issues for someone fifty something.