The carbonation loss with a beer gun is not noticeable-at least not to me. It won't matter what temp you carbonate at. Be sure to follow a carbonation chart to determine what pressure to apply at that temperature.
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Yup. Sounds like a freak one-off to me.There's no doubt about it.
Local laws, bureaucracy, can be a huge barrier to entering this industry.Many of the counties here is KS don't allow Sunday liquor sales and there are still several dry counties. The laws for actually making and distributing beer are very strict.
I'd say 68* is too high for 3711. If you love fusels though, go nuts.Really? I did a French saison a couple months ago with 3711 and let it rise to about 78. I am really happy with the result.
I used to dry hop in the keg cold. I don't anymore. I didn't really notice vegetal, grassy favors when doing this at first, but lately it's really come through and I don't like it at all. I noticed it most when using columbus and other C-hops and that's when decided not to do it anymore. Now I will either throw them into the primary after fermentation, or transfer to secondary. In both instances dry hopping is at room temp and I cold crash before kegging.In my experience vegetal aromas and flavors are extracted much more noticeably at lower temps. If I dry hop with american hops at 55 degrees (winter in my cellar), I get up to several weeks of grass/wood before it dissapates. When I dry hop with the same volumes at 70F, it only typically imparts that character for a few days.
And yes, you're reading that right... I get chlorophyll notes at the BEGINNING of dry hopping-- not after extended periods of dry hop contact like prevailing opinion tells us.
I almost always dry hop cold and have never noticed any unwanted vegetal aromas and flavors. I'll have to try your method on my next IPA and see if I can tell the difference.
Make your own!It takes a long long time for a yeast strain to mutate and take on different characteristics. If you're looking to take on characteristics of both yeast I believe it's best to culture them separate and add them both to the fermenter. Over several months, one yeast strain will likely out compete the other in the method you described.
Just buy up a few bottles of farmhouse ales from breweries you like, culture the yeast from the bottle, and add them together in a starter. Every few months, pour off the supernate and feed it a cup or two of fresh wort.
I suggest using Jolly Pumpkin and Lost Abbey (if you can get it).
Making your own "house" strain is a great avenue on so many levels:
1. Its completely unique to your brewery
2. You have an excuse to try several different commerical beers (normally too pricy to buy on a reg basis)
3. You'll have excess culture to "experiment" with... add it to 2nd runnings or a poorly attenuated brew.