Messages

76

Ingredients / Re: Reading water reports that state "ppm as CaCO3"

« on: December 09, 2011, 03:47:53 PM »

The molecular weight of CaCO3 is 100.0869 g/ml and the molecular weight of calcium is 40.078 g/mol.  For arguments sake, lets round to 100 and 40.  So, if your report reads that you have 100 ppm (mg/l) of CaCO3, then you have 40 ppm (mg/l) of elemental calcium in your water.  Basically 40% of your CaCO3 reading is elemental calcium. 

77

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Re-using Yeast for Starters

« on: December 07, 2011, 08:18:58 AM »

In a nutshell, stuff that falls (well shaken, no obvious clumps) within 10-15 minutes is trub.  Stuff that won't fall out in 12-24 hours (in the fridge) is dead yeast.  Remove both using sterile/boiled water.

Here is a nice, detailed podcast on the subject:  http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/543 

78

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: not brewing yeast but . . .

« on: December 07, 2011, 07:26:51 AM »

Neat article.  We should into the castle cellars in France where Cognac is aged :-)

79

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast Strain Development with Subsequent Generations

« on: December 07, 2011, 07:21:50 AM »

Your method seems well thought out and you shouldn't be selecting for flocculation. 

I have heard on one of the podcasts out there that yeast companies don't always use pure strains with their homebrewer products.  They want to put out a product that has the character they claim, but is also 'foolproof' for the average Joe homebrewer.  They accomplish this by using a blend of a hearty strain, like 1056 or 001, with the desire specialty strain, like the pacman.  This way, no matter how finicky the specialty strain, the beer will work at nearly any temperature, will generally attenuate fully and will represent the company as producing reliable products.  However, this may just be conjecture, as I have not confirmed this with any company myself. 

What you may be observing is the elimination of the secondary strain.  The pacman strain may be outcompeting the 1056 and the ferment is taking on the characteristics of just the pacman strain.  If initially the pac contained 90% pacman and 10% 1056, then the pacman could easily out-compete the 1056 in 4-6 generations. 

80

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: over pitching yeast

« on: December 07, 2011, 07:07:13 AM »

Agreed, I don't rely on airlock observations at all.  Often, I will just use foil instead of an airlock. 

Dry yeasts are so healthy that you shouldn't get any off flavors.  Remember though, pitching dry straight into wort will kill ~50% of the packet.  Pitching straight into beer (with alcohol) will reduce the number of viable cells even further.  You likely didn't over-pitch nearly what you think you have.  If, and I stress if, there were any concerns, it would be with the number of dead yeast cells. 

Myself, I would dump the yeast as soon as I could, and then enjoy the beer!

81

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Help with my first homebrew frementation

« on: December 07, 2011, 06:58:35 AM »

Looks like the krausen has already retreated back down into the bucket, so there is not further risk or impacts to your beer.  Clean it if you like, but it is no longer in contact with your beer so there is no immediate reason to do so.  I always fill my airlock with star san or ethanol for these types of events.  That way, even if the krausen contacts the surfaces of the airlock, it is only contacting sanitized surfaces and will not pick up any bacteria. 

82

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Re-using Yeast for Starters

« on: December 07, 2011, 06:53:05 AM »

I like to rinse the yeast cake 3-4 times with boiled, cooled water.  This lets me get the trub out (what falls out first) and the dead cells (what falls out last).  Then, I calculate the pitching rate using the lowest setting for trub on the MrMalty app.  If it is older than a week, I give it a little wake up juice starting the morning of brew day (to be pitched ~ 12 hours later).

I will save yeast from APA's, but generally not IPA's as I late hop them heavily and go high gravity.  This really stresses the yeast and coats them significantly with hop oils.  I believe the theories, as from my own experience it takes a lot more effort to clean yeast cakes from these types of beers, and I observe a lot more dead, floating cells during the washing process.  If I dry hop in the primary fermenter, then I don't even consider saving the yeast cake.  It's nearly impossible to get the yeast clean.  If you transfer to secondary, then you can dry hop all you want without ruining your yeast cake.  However, the trade-off is that you have to let fermentation complete and wait for the yeast to completely flocculate and settle otherwise you will begin selecting for early flocculators.  This prevents you from throwing in the dry hops when fermentation is 2/3 complete, thereby letting the yeast soak up any oxygen that comes in with the hop pellets. 

Usually, I use the american yeast strains on hoppy beers.  Since these only cost $1-2 per dry packet, I don't worry about not saving the yeast.  For all other beers I use specialty, liquid strains and put in the extra effort to keep the cakes going. 

83

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wyeast 1728 Scottish Ale Yeast

« on: December 07, 2011, 06:31:55 AM »

I used it with a scottish 80 and the karusen was a good 3-4" thick.  I used that yeast cake on a wee heavy and the krausen blew through 1.25 gallons of headspace (and the airlock of course).  I had to use a blow off tube for at least 2 days.  You should be seeing a nice krausen. 

84

All Grain Brewing / Re: Oatmeal Stout mouthfeel

« on: December 06, 2011, 01:58:01 PM »

I used the London strain with my English Mild and that stuff cranked pretty good.  It turned out a couple points lower than expected and the perception was lighter than the gravity reading.  You might try a less attenuative English strain. 

Just to some food for thought, but adding oatmeal to a 1.050-1.060 stout isn't gonna give it the same body as a 1.100-1.110 Russian imperial stout.  Try the good tips others have offered, but keep your expectations within reason.  You could always buy a bottle of Samuel Smiths and taste them side by side; you may not be as far off in mouthfeel as you think.

85

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WLP510 Bastogne Yeast for Witbier?

« on: December 06, 2011, 01:46:04 PM »

FWIW, I started the yeast at 68 F, then after 48 hours I started increasing the temperature 1 F every ~12 hours (when I got up and when I went to bed, actually) until it got to 78 F.  This may be where I got some of the orange character, as I am sure you know, higher temps are one way to get more fruity esters. 

86

Equipment and Software / Re: Whirlpool Problem with Pump!

« on: December 06, 2011, 01:41:23 PM »

While there is no risk to the motor, you can cause damage to the impeller by running it dry, especially if it was just at boiling temperatures.  The liquid is what lubricates the impeller.  Don't sweat closing the outlet valve for a few seconds, especially if there is liquid in the head; however, try to develop good habits such that you rely on this method as little as possible. 

87

Equipment and Software / Re: Whirlpool Problem with Pump!

« on: December 06, 2011, 06:33:00 AM »

It sounds like you opened the valves in reverse, allowing the sides without the screen to fill the pump hoses.  However, since it was on the outflow side, it should have pushed the hops right back out without ever making it to the pump head. 

I clogged my system once while adding a very large addition of flame-out hops.  They got sucked right in before they had time to break apart.  They never actually made it into the pump, but clogged the hose instead.  It happens...

You should definitely open the valve with the screen first and then just slightly crack open the valve without the screen.  I think the most important thing when using the pump is to make sure all of the air leaves the pump head and tubing before you turn the pump on.  If you suspect air int he lines, you can cycle the pump on and off until you get the air out.  Then you will have smooth sailings. 

88

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WLP510 Bastogne Yeast for Witbier?

« on: December 05, 2011, 06:53:42 PM »

I did a yeast experiment with a basic Belgian pale malt bill using 6 different yeasts. The WLP510 was the only one that had any orange flavors.  It reminded me of oranges and especially the rind and pith of the orange.  I think it would make a very tasty and  drinkable, if not perfectly accurate to style, Belgian wit. 

89

Yeast and Fermentation / Yeast Nutrient

« on: December 04, 2011, 09:39:46 AM »

When is best to add yeast nutrient?  In the wort boil?  After the wort is cooled?  Only in the starter?  When you pitch yeast?

I ask because of an observation of my starter wort.  I boiled it in a glass flask last time instead of a SS pot, and I notice the wort got very dark.  I know melanoidins form as you boil the wort, but this seemed excessive.  I checked my yeast nutrient, and it has a lot of DAP in it.  I know that people making syrups also use DAP in making dark Belgian candy syrups.  I am wondering if the DAP I added to my starter wort caused the excessive darkening, resulting in the DAP being sequestered into melanoidins and no longer available to the yeast a free nitrogen.  Maybe I should add it at the end of the boil, or once it is cooled? 

90

Yeast and Fermentation / Chest freezer fermentation chamber

« on: December 04, 2011, 08:11:49 AM »

I have set up a small chest freezer with a dual temp controller, heat wrap and thermowell for controlling fermentation.  After fermentation is complete, I crash the freezer down to drop all of the suspended yeast before I transfer to a corny.  Currently, I have the fermentor sitting on the bottom of the freezer.  I have noticed that if I drop too large of a temperature in a short time, then it gets some frost/crystals on the inside edges of the carboy.  I am almost convinced, too, that repitches from these beers contain a lot more dead yeast that past batches.  I believe that the direct contact of the carboy with the freezer bottom is cooling the glass colder than the set point.  Since the yeast cake is in contact with the glass on the bottom, it may be causing yeast to die and occasionally frost to form up the sides of the carboy.  By the time the temperature of the probe reaches the set point, the glass is effectively acting like the metal lining of the chest freezer and is well below the set point temperature. 

Has anyone else observed this with their system?  I figure putting a piece of foam on the bottom of the chest freezer will resolve the problem.  Is it common to do this?