What about bombers? Do they mention how many (or if) bombers will fit and still stack with any stability?
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So, If I'm planning on boiling my water that I'll use to rehydrate some US-05 is there any reason I shouldn't add enough DME to the equivalent concentration of a typical starter and a pinch of yeast nutrient for the purpose of rehydrating? I'm wondering if this would provide a nice boost or if the yeast would be confused by spending a short time in a "starter" solution prior to being pitched (say, after a couple hours or so).
As I understand it this is a bad idea because the yeast, when first reintroduced to a liquid environment are not prepared to triage what goes in to the cells via dried out membranes. So they can not regulate how much and and what kind of things are coming in and this causes a lot of damage if there are lots of sugar and other stuff in the liquid. Plain water gives them a chance to wake up and get their membranes working properly before they have to deal with sugars and other chemicals.
They already have the reserves they need to get through this period well. Hence the manufacturers recommending rehydration in plain water.
Did you check that the lid was seated properly? Mine can get slightly off kilter and leak. I lubricate all the o-rings at once when I take the posts off to fully clean the keg.+1
If bottle conditioning, I'd always do one in a clear bottle to check.+1, another great tip.
I just took a gravity sample on a 10 day old IPA. After I got my reading I put it in a PET bottle with a carbonator cap, hit it with 30 psi and stuck it in the freezer. In an hour I'll have a cold, carbed sample to taste.
What's the difference between this and the film on the outside of an immersion chiller that "sanitizes in the boil" and makes your copper come out shiny? Recirc some hot wort through for a few minutes before you chill and it doesn't matter what's in there.I think the difference is that with a plate chiller you have densely packed, angular surfaces that seem more likely to harbor hop/trub debris. That and you can't see what you're dealing with. I'm with you though in that if recirculating sanitizing boiling wort doesn't work, I'm hosed someday. Even with that and the fact that I backflush, flush and backflush again after every batch, I can help but worry a bit about what's jammed into the nooks and crannies. I get a lot of debris out of the chiller when I backflush.
If you really care, make a hop stopper. I have and I never see any particulate come out when I backflush.
I thought I would share some pics of my grain mill. The mill is by no means new, built it about 4 years ago. However, I recently moved from so cal to the pacific northwest... and go figure, the frame quickly rusted over. I have always been meaning to powdercoat it and this was a good excuse to finally get it done.THAT is quite possible the coolest grain mill I've ever seen. Really dig the canvas hopper. Nice job, and welcome!
Have you ever experienced any clogging using the gas disconnects?
Exactly, that would just be a chore.Sure - or you can build a few small pieces that are not attached to each other and just arrange them around the plate when you're using it....AND I could rationalize buying a jigsaw!Stirstarter, good product, good price, great service.Build yourself a stand for your 5L flasks - something that is the same height as the top of the stirplate but with a hole in the middle that you can put the stirplate in. A little bit of plywood and some scrap 2x4 should be all you need. It will support the edges of the flasks and not interfere with the stirplate.
The only thing i don't like is having to carefully balance my 5L flasks, but it works like a charm.
I'd definately go with the jigsaw. Any project that dpen't require a new tool isn't really a project.
The title was
Ebony AND Ivory