Messages

376

Ingredients / Re: Palmer Spreadsheet Error

« on: December 15, 2010, 04:34:40 PM »

Looking at  the US spreadsheet, the  formula in cell E30 should be roughly (C27*322 + G27*363)/C23.  In other words, the factors for converting chalk and baking soda to bicarb are both wrong.  Correcting E30 should result in L30 giving the proper result.

The "corrected" equation assumes that the chalk and baking soda fully dissolve.  However, Kai points out earlier that the chalk does not fully dissolve and thus the original factor of 158.4 rather than 322 might not be wrong as an empiricism.  However, it is unclear why the discrepancy for the baking soda factor.  Baking soda dissolves well; the solubility of baking soda is 100 g/l at 20 C vs. .015 g/l for chalk at 25 C per wikipedia.

377

Ingredients / Re: Palmer Spreadsheet Error

« on: December 15, 2010, 03:21:39 PM »

Looking at  the US spreadsheet, the  formula in cell E30 should be roughly (C27*322 + G27*363)/C23.  In other words, the factors for converting chalk and baking soda to bicarb are both wrong.  Correcting E30 should result in L30 giving the proper result.

Edit: corrected cell refs

378

Ingredients / Re: Palmer Spreadsheet Error

« on: December 15, 2010, 02:16:50 PM »

After reviewing a water profile created by a brewer using Palmer's Spreadsheet, I found a very serious error that must be corrected.  

The bicarbonate concentration calculated from the addition of chalk is in error.  It appears that the calculation is actually giving the carbonate concentration instead of the bicarbonate concentration.  Since carbonate cannot exist at typical mash pH, it must be converted to the bicarbonate form.  That means that the carbonate concentration should be multiplied by 2.033.  This also means that the alkalinity calculated for the chalk addition in the spreadsheet is also in error and should be multiplied by 2.033.

Without looking at the spreadsheet (if someone pointed out where the spreadsheet is and which cells have the error, I would probably look at it), since alkalinity is usually reported as alkalinity as mg/l of CaCO3, I don't see an error in the alkalinity number.  Perhaps, the bicarbonate concentration is being reported as mg/l of CaCO3 too?

379

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Best way to prime your bottles

« on: December 02, 2010, 03:32:57 PM »

My fermentations are always at least 6 weeks and my last couple of brews ( one of them did have excessive carbonation, the other was only bottled 3 weeks ago) have been primary only.

Try fermenting for 2-3 weeks only and then fermenting in the bottle under the same temperatures as primary for a week or two.  The yeast after 6 weeks will likely not be healthy resulting in inconsistent fermentations in the bottle.

380

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bottling issues again

« on: December 02, 2010, 01:31:05 PM »

For me, the calculator doesn't work so well for English styles; part of it is that at low carbonation levels the serving temp has a huge effect on perceived carbonation levels (very flat to mild carbonation).  My suggestions are have enough yeast initially, do a short fermentation (2-3 weeks), skip the bottling bucket, calculate priming levels at the higher end of the range for English ales, carbonate the bottles between 65-70F until the desired carbonation is achieved and shaking the bottles after a week if the carbonation was not achieved. 

381

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Best way to prime your bottles

« on: December 01, 2010, 11:26:07 AM »

I think your carbonation problems may relate to fermentation rather than lack of good mixing.  Are you doing long fermentations before bottling?  Do you keep the bottles warm until they are finished carbonating.  Bad biology results in greater inconsistency than bad chemistry.

382

Other Fermentables / Re: Pectic enzyme - too late

« on: November 10, 2010, 12:41:15 PM »

I have some cider that's just about done fermenting.  Alas, I forgot to add pectic enzyme, so it's cloudy.  Is it too late to add it to the fermented cider?

Normally pectic enzyme is added before fermentation as alcohol interferes with the enzyme.  Whether or not it is too late depends on the specific pectic enzyme and the alcohol concentration.  I don't have any further information that would be helpful.

383

Beer Recipes / Re: Coffee Porter Question

« on: November 09, 2010, 09:15:52 AM »

I'm working on a recipe for a coffee porter and I'm trying to figure out the best way, how much and when to add the coffee.  I'm planning on using coffee from a local roastery and really want the flavor of the coffee to come through.  I'll be doing a 5 gallon extract batch with steeped grains.  Any suggestions would be helpful.
Thanks,
Luke

Make a french press coffee and add to taste shortly before bottling (I think I last used 8-12 cups/5 gallons).  By using boiling water and waiting a few minutes you kill the critters and you get a predictable rich coffee flavor. 

However, my only coffee porter did not age well beyond 6 months.  The coffee flavor degraded.

384

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Best places for getting CO2 in & around Chicago

« on: November 09, 2010, 09:01:06 AM »

I live in the area & we use these guys to fill our co2

J & B Welding Supplies
5305 West Ogden Avenue, Cicero, IL 60804-3505
(708) 447-2203

J&B seems the closest to me, very reasonable prices ~$1/# and open on Saturday.  Thanks.

385

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Perking up a pumpkin brew

« on: November 08, 2010, 09:25:07 AM »

Meanwhile, doctoring the brew day by day seems to be working. It's still a little under-spiced. I adjusted my potion to emphasize the nutmeg and allspice over the cinnamon, which seemed to predominate, and tomorrow I'll add another dose of spicing, then leave it be until next weekend, when I bottle.

Doctoring day by day can result in overspicing.  It often takes a few days for the spice components to fully dissolve or develop.  I usually wait about a week between spice additions. 

386

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Best places for getting CO2 in & around Chicago

« on: November 08, 2010, 09:19:07 AM »

Thanks for the ideas.

387

General Homebrew Discussion / Best places for getting CO2 in & around Chicago

« on: November 04, 2010, 01:55:20 PM »

I'm looking to have my CO2 tank tested and refilled.  Any thoughts?  I actually live immediately west of Chicago in Oak Park.

388

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pro Brewers...Fermentis yeasts

« on: October 29, 2010, 12:20:35 PM »

That was pretty interesting. Particularly these statements:


"I don't use S-04, but I found oxygenating US-05 on the first pitch produced a tart fruit flavor, inconsistent with the beers I was trying to produce. Both major dry yeast manufacturers have mentioned there are enough lipids within the cell for the first fermentation (for average gravity worts). As soon as I stopped aerating the first pitch, I noticed far better flavor profiles for US-05."

It is unclear if the brewer is oxygenating with oxgen or with air.  If with oxygen, that would tend to explain why many have not noticed sour notes when aearating the wort.

389

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pro Brewers...Fermentis yeasts

« on: October 29, 2010, 12:17:35 PM »

Theoretically you should not need to aerate with dry yeast. But I have done it both ways and never noticed any difference or tart flavors. And, personally, I do not like S04. And I hate WB-06.

I recently made an Am. Pale Ale with homegrown Cascades with 3 different splits.  All of the splits were quite citrusy and the dry-hopped ones were extremely citrusy with sour notes.  I was thinking that it was the homegrown Cascades in their second year that may been out of character or the gentle drying of the hops preserving more of the citrus character, but now I'm thinking it was aeration providing a sour note that accentuated the citrus. 

Anyway, I'm not going to aerate my IPA with the homegrown Cascades.


I'm not sure I would blame the yeast.  I made two APAs, the same grain bill for both, but homegrown Cascades in one batch.  It was more citrusy than the batch with Amarillo.  I simply chalked it up to the freshness of the homegrown hops.  Both batches were hit with a wine degasser after pitching dry yeast.

After a few days the sour note and some of the citrus aroma has dissipated.  So it was just the freshness of the hops and beer that created the sourness and not the aeration.  Nevertheless, I'm not going to aerate when using dry yeast.

390

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Ring around the collar in fermenter

« on: October 26, 2010, 11:44:25 AM »

This is a common condition that occurs from the krausen scum layer staining the fermenter.
I haven't experienced any problems from it.

I used to think it was a stain, but it is a thin layer that I can see peeling off under the force of a spray wand.  I'm inclined not to worry about it as I have brewed a long time without worrying about it.