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Messages - duboman

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31
Yeast and Fermentation / Calculator Confusion/Curiosity
« on: April 26, 2013, 03:45:55 pm »
Ironically. Shortly after I posted this I found a conversion on this exact subject on HBT under the yeast/fermentation forum titled Yeastcalc-now there are 2 stir plates....

Kai has offered up quite a bit as well as Woodland Brewer with a LOT of interesting information

32
Going Pro / Logo Feedback
« on: April 24, 2013, 06:39:37 pm »
Personally I keep seeing a lady bug and they just don't convey big bug in my world.

I liked #1 best for visual appeal and transfer to marketing products but I just don't see big bug at all.....maybe that's what will make it work,)

33
General Homebrew Discussion / Look what the stork droped off...
« on: April 23, 2013, 05:41:05 pm »
Osmotic pressure only exists across a semi-permeable membrane, so RO water does not have more osmotic pressure than any other water.  It is water.  Osmotic pressure is better understood as the tendency of water to move across the membrane in order to balance both sides.  When there is something that can NOT move through on only one side of the membrane and not on the other it creates physical water pressure on the membrane from things like water that CAN move across the membrane - water will do so until the pressure on both sides of the membrane is in equilibrium.  In reverse osmosis, pressure is added to one side to force the water across the semi-permeable membrane, leaving the other stuff behind.  I'm sure you can google much better explanations.

Yeast in RO water experience higher osmotic pressure than non-RO water, but not higher than distilled water.  Adding extract to the water before adding yeast will relieve the osmotic pressure.

And while there is some osmotic pressure created by using distilled water, it is the best media for long term storage of yeast.

Started this post before all of these other replies.  Bah.

Thanks for this concise explanation! I was scratching my head a bit since I know plenty of brewers that use R/O, build it up to the desired profile and brew some amazing beer!

34
Yeast and Fermentation / Calculator Confusion/Curiosity
« on: April 22, 2013, 06:04:33 am »
I only use Wyeast Smack Packs and I always make starters and have been ever since I got into this hobby. I have always used Yeastcalc for my calculations and have noticed the last several times that there are now two stir plate calculators- one is Jamil's and the other is Troester and they calculate differently. So out of curiosity I also visited MrMalty and used the slider to make the growth factor the same as the two represented on Yeast calc and am looking for some continuity and not finding it. I'm hoping someone can give me an explanation as to where the differences are coming from.

Example:
Package date: 3/13/2013
Viability: Yeastcalc-81%, Mr. Malty 69%
Batch size: 6.25g
Og: 1.054
YeastCalc
Stir Plate: Jamil-growth factor 2.01 requires 244B cells, 1.5L starter
Stir Plate: Troester-growth factor 2.6, 292B cells, 1.5 L starter
MrMalty:
Stir Plate: 236B cells, 1L starter-sliding of growth factor made no changes

I realize, on average the difference in cells is not huge and all of my beer as attenuated well with no issues and I have always used Yeastcalc as I like the ability to calculate stepped starters so easily and I am not losing sleep over this but my curiosity has been peaked so my inquiring mind wants to know if one is more accurate than another and why the differences?

35
Kegging and Bottling / Extending the life of chest freezers question
« on: April 20, 2013, 05:03:47 pm »
How do you control the freezer temperature?

You need an external temperature controller that over rides the the built in thermostat

36
Equipment and Software / Nat. gas stove boiling times
« on: April 20, 2013, 03:44:31 pm »
It's hard to say as every stove is going to put out different BTUs like if you have a big Viking Range versus a everyday GE.

Try boiling the volume of water and see how long it takes to get going and assume that heavier wort will take a bit longer and make your decision from there

37
All Grain Brewing / Next Step-Water
« on: April 20, 2013, 06:09:03 am »
There is sort of an anti-sulfate crusade that has been promulgated by a person that only brews European light lagers. Unfortunately, that sentiment has 'bled' into the psyches of other brewers and their quest for great beer.  I can assure you that many styles benefit from varying levels of sulfate in the brewing water. Lately, the lore has been that sulfate enhances bitterness perception (which it does).  However sulfate is actually helping to dry the beer finish (which enhances bitterness perception) and that can be a valuable tool for the brewer to tune their beers.

Certainly, sulfate should be used in moderation. But it should be viewed as an important tool in perfecting your beers. Using it in hoppy beers only may restrict your brewing abilities. Next time you have a recipe that produces a beer that doesn't dry the finish adequately, think about bumping the sulfate content of the water up a bit. An extra 20 ppm may be all you need.

Don't be afraid of sulfate!

Thanks for chiming in. To clarify a bit, the pale Alenin question is actually a low IBU version that I brew but with a lot of very late additions of Amarillo and Simcoe as well as 3oz of dry hop of the same. The first batches, while very good were not giving me the desired flavor and aroma and the bitterness was somewhat subdued.

With the gypsum addition in this batch the beer is definitely more crisp and the flavor and aromas from the late additions are far more pronounced and less muddy.

38
All Grain Brewing / Next Step-Water
« on: April 19, 2013, 03:40:06 pm »
So to update, sort of....
Just did a side by side of my house pale ale, the second with treating the water with 10grams Gypsum and the hop profile is much more pronounced and crisp and I am very pleased with the improvement and the little effort that was required!

Just made one of my favorites even better than it was!

39
All Grain Brewing / Re: Dead Space
« on: April 19, 2013, 06:41:19 am »
Why would you have dead space in the brew kettle?  Wouldn't you just pick up the kettle and pour everything out?  Of course there would be the grub issue.  I will try the recommendation for both my tun and kettle and see what is left.  Thanks guys.

If you just dump the contents then, no, there would be no dead space but if you use a kettle with a valve there would be dead space

-Amanda beat me to it!

40
All Grain Brewing / Re: Dead Space
« on: April 19, 2013, 06:22:17 am »
Add a known amount of water, and measure exactly how much water you are able to drain out of the system. The amount you can't drain is effectively your dead space.  Mine is ~ 1/2 gallon, slightly less. Take that into consideration for your water measurements.

+1,
You can use the same method to determine if  you have dead space in your brew kettle as well!

41
If you are somewhat handy you can make an Immersion Chiller with a 50' coil of copper tubing for about $25-30.00 which translates to about 5-7 batches of beer if you were to buy ice, and yes, many people get a turkey fryer set up to begin with as you can usually pick them up for less than $100.00 and some even come with a SS pot now at that price!

42
Equipment and Software / Re: First kit questions
« on: April 19, 2013, 06:16:14 am »
I would suggest you pick up a rope tub type toy bucket, they sell them at Walmart for, like $7.00. They are definitely large enough to handle an ice bath and the bonus is you can then use it as a swamp cooler to help control fermentation temperatures as a water bath!

43
General Homebrew Discussion / Greetings from Florida
« on: April 17, 2013, 05:21:55 pm »
Welcome! Fun place to be!

44
The Pub / Reinheitsgebot craziness
« on: April 17, 2013, 05:20:58 pm »
Laws or no laws, you have to agree they brew some mighty fine beer:)

45
General Homebrew Discussion / Topping off a fermenter
« on: April 17, 2013, 05:16:45 pm »
Some do, some don't. I never did and never had any issues. I'm not suggesting I'm right, I just never did it.

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