You got it. It basically adds for the second boil, wort chiller and pitch if you time it right. An extra brew and you only add about 1.5 hours to your brew day!
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+1 to both of these comments. Make something relatively simple for your first AG beer. Use 9-10# of 2 row, 1# crystal and make a Pale Ale or Steam Beer. Get the process down, know your equipment and then ramp it up. You want your first brew to be as good as possible not only for yourself but so you can brag about making it!I would suggest something more common for first batch. Convert one of your extract recipes. That way, you'll know more about your process, than trying to figure on a new style.
Sound advice and what I was thinking as well, but I was thinking a basic recipe. Nothing fancy- just something to familiarize oneself with the process. Not an expensive beer that could be ruined by coming in too low or too high.
Look into your water profile. Martin's spreadsheet would be a good place to start. Would suck to have everything go right process-wise and have a lackluster beer because the bill didn't fit the water-type.
or do you just put the next beer right on top of the last beer old hop debris and all.
Sometimes, yes. You can do this and the typical approach is to go from lighter/weaker to darker/stronger beers (e.g. brew a light lager, use the yeast cake for a dopplebock).
Or, you can pour the yeast cake into a sanitized container and wash the yeast as mentioned above.
Or, you can pour it out and use only a portion of the total cake for your next batch which minimizes concerns about over-pitching.
There are several ways to go about it. Find out which works best for you and go with that.
It seems, based on the discussion here, that doing a decoction at all is somewhat controversial. I have never done one. I generally do single infusions and batch sparge. It was recommended in this discussion to check out the YouTube decoction video, which I did. He, the German guy, said that decoctions were better when you have "less modified" malts such as munich. Do you all agree? Does it really make a difference?
thanks for all the advice. I buy my grain from my LHBS; I'll check the grind next time I buy some. I'll also pay closer attention to my volume levels. Always seem to forget to measure, somewhere along the line.
You don't have to pitch it today.
I alyways let mine sit over night in the converted freezer because I can't get my wort down to temp with my well water. It won't hurt anything as long as its covered.
+1, I'm generally a "next day pitcher" myself
How do you re use yeast that has a lot of O.T.Y......other than yeast....I have a lager still in the primary but it has all kinds of hop debris on the bottom of the 15 gal fermentor. ......How do you separate the yeast from the trash or do you just put the next beer right on top of the last beer old hop debris and all.
You could try to cold crash it right now and get some S-33 as a backup, if it doesn't go.
I haven't tried that yeast, but I try to have some US-05 and S-04 on hand for those occasions when my planning didn't allow for a good yeast crash and decant. I agree with Denny that if the yeast isn't ready, then you are really not ready to brew, but with the dry yeasts that are out there, I never have a problem anymore with yeast planning. And FWIW, I prefer some of the dry yeasts to the liquid counterparts.