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Or just stay away from oxygen all together.
By doing what?
I gave up on the PITA of oxygen and use a Mix Stir now.
Amanda, you get today's pragmatism award! My experience is that a MixStir works as well as an O2 setup.
Hooray!Do I get a sticker or something? But seriously, on a homebrew level I just don't see the point of pure O2.
I haven't had the chance to read the new Zymurgy, because I just finished the process of moving. I mainly did this to get a taste of straight Amarillo. And I had three pounds on stock and needed to use some, so why not use 9 oz? I did the same with a dry hopped Citra APA not long ago. I had never tried Citra before. It's one of my favorite brews to date. I figure if this beer isn't great, it's still gonna be pretty good.... Kinda like pizza
I'm a couple years, 20+ batches in and moving from ales to lagers - lots to learn - THANKS!!!
I'll just throw this in, in a recent issue of Zymurgy they have a recipe for testing single hops and the author makes a point to say that Amarillo was not good for the 60 minute addition.
That was a statement of opinion. granted from Vinnie at Russian river but still. Try it. Maybe YOU would like it as a 60 minute addition. I find Columbus to be really oniony but others love it.
The other opinion he stated was that while a single hop beer was great for experimenting, it didn't make a good recipe. I realize that it's subjective, but I agree with him 100%.
These are all opinions, isn't that what the op asked for? Haven't seen the latest Zymurgy best beers but the runner up for 3 straight(IIRC) is a single hop beer. So it seems lots of folks think very highly of a single hop beer as a good recipe. I can't believe it but I have to disagree with Denny and Vinnie, I have really enjoyed some single hop beers.
30°C (86°F) is pretty standard for breweries that bottle condition. You're definitely in the ballpark.
If you do it at 80%, the yeast will finish the sugars and be active to reduce the VDKs. The increased activity will help scrub off sulfur. Then you can crash down to cold temps to lager and drop out the haze and yeast. The classic profile has a slow cooling to keep the yeast working, as they will slowly reduce the VDKs at low temperature.good info from everyone. seems like we are all on the same page. it just seemed odd to me to hear people do a d-rest after 2 weeks at 50F...seems all activity would be done and there would be nothing gained from doing a d-rest then (considering a normal lager range around 1.050-055). maybe for bigger beers over 1.060 there would still be fermentation activity near the 2 week mark - i just haven't done a lager that big.
As long as you don't remove the yeast from the beer, it doesn't matter if all activity has ended. Warming the beer for the d rest will make it active again.
ok good to know. but then whats the difference in doing a d-rest at 80-85% attenuation , vs. 99-100% attenuation ? any benefit of one over the other
So you clean it up, blow off sulfur and save time. If you are a homebrewer that brews lagers when the weather allows, saving time in the fermenter is a good thing. Might have to get another freezer someday so I can do lagers in the summer.
good info from everyone. seems like we are all on the same page. it just seemed odd to me to hear people do a d-rest after 2 weeks at 50F...seems all activity would be done and there would be nothing gained from doing a d-rest then (considering a normal lager range around 1.050-055). maybe for bigger beers over 1.060 there would still be fermentation activity near the 2 week mark - i just haven't done a lager that big.
As long as you don't remove the yeast from the beer, it doesn't matter if all activity has ended. Warming the beer for the d rest will make it active again.
Everything above looks correct except that "all lagers will produce diacetyl". Not all strains will produce diacetyl and it will mainly depend upon whether you pitch the correct amount of yeast and the fermentation temperature.
That aside, your plan is sound. IMHO, a D-Rest is mainly insurance if you pitched and fermented correctly. You may not need one at all, but it will not hurt your beer either.
I typically wait until I see little to no activity and then raise it up(given an active fermentation). Others have different processes. This works for me without having to take numerous gravity readings.
Dave
Maybe someone else can weigh in, but seems to me diacetyl is always produced - just at different levels??
I highly recommend a coolbot to keep the air conditioner working well
http://www.amazon.com/CoolBot-Walk-In-Cooler-Controller-conditioner/dp/B003VSLTAI
Tom, that is a way cool device, pun intended. Never seen this gadget before.
Interesting. Get some flavor but more bitterness? Can you explain?
I perceive about the same amount of bittering from FWH as I do from a 20 min. addition. Now, that's not a hard and fast number and everybody who FWH needs to decide for themselves. But to me, FWH doesn't provide the same amount and quality of bitterness as a 60 min, addition. I decide how much hop flavor I want and how much FWH I need to achieve that. Then I look at how much bitterness that adds (counted as a 20 min. addition) and add enough 50 min. hops to hit the IBU I want.