Messages

556

Beer Recipes / Re: Scottish Ale

« on: August 03, 2011, 10:55:37 AM »

Jamil Zainasheff has a pretty good 60 Schilling recipe in Brewing Classic Styles that attemps to achieve the malt complexity through several specialty grains.  He has garnered a lot of awards with this recipe.  I have brewed the 80 version a couple of times with heather with good results.  Basically the amount of specialty grains stays the same and you adjust your base grain to achieve your desired OG. Mash warm, 158F witha a 90 minute boil.  One interesting technique Jamil uses is to pitch one fresh vial of WLP001 and ferment cool in the low 60's F to get a clean, slightly underattenuated fermentation characteristic to the beer.

Here is a link to the recipe if you don't have BCS
http://beerdujour.com/Recipes/Jamil/JamilsScottish60.htm

Hope this helps, good luck!

557

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Non-Belgian Uses for Belgian Candi Syrups

« on: August 02, 2011, 09:58:07 AM »

I plan on brewing on old ale with D2 from Dark Candi Inc. in place of treacle.  It sounds good on paper

558

Ingredients / Re: Coriander question

« on: July 27, 2011, 02:37:02 PM »

Charlie P. wrote something once about coriander limiting the amount of staling from oxidation.  I don't remember that he did any experiments, just observations about the longevity of his beers with the spice added.

I thought it was cinnamon added to the mash to prevent staling from oxidation, if I am not mistaken? 

559

Beer Recipes / Re: Need advice for brewing an all home grown hops brew?

« on: July 27, 2011, 02:14:55 PM »

Homegrown hops are best used for late hop additions of flavor and aroma since alpha acids are not known, unless you want to spend a few bucks to send them to a lab.  Since IBU contributions are minimal this is generally the best route to use for homegrown hops.  Use the hops with the known AA% for your 60 minute bittering addition.

560

Zymurgy / Re: Pilsner Urquell triple decoction

« on: July 13, 2011, 12:28:34 PM »

I got the feeling 2206 was temperamental from Designing Great Beers.  Although it isn't called out by name and manufacturer, I interpreted it as the yeast we were using, 2206.  We took extra care to cool the starter and pitch at near fermentation temperature (wort was chilled to the same fermentation temp. as the starter).

I wouldn't call Wyeast 2206 tempermental.  It is the only lager strain I just and it produces very clean, consistent results  and clear beer everytime with 74-78% attenuation no matter the beer.  I set the fermenter at 48-50F for 3-4 weeks and then go straight into lagering.  I have never had this yeast kick off sulfur or diacetyl.  Maybe a little green apple/acetaldehyde when it is young, but that typically goes away quickly. 

561

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What's Brewing THis Weekend - 7/1 Edition

« on: June 29, 2011, 11:05:20 AM »

Brewing a Vienna lager and then splitting a 10 gallon batch of bitter into 5 gallons of ordinary bitter with EKGs and 5 gallons of west coast bitter/San Diego session ale with PNW hops.

562

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WLP090 San Diego Super Yeast

« on: June 28, 2011, 07:18:23 PM »

AB is my all-time favorite beer and I look forward to having it fresh at the brewery next week.  Only had it in the bombers, can't wait to have it on draft!

563

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WLP090 San Diego Super Yeast

« on: June 27, 2011, 08:32:18 PM »

I dunno, it seems to me that the characteristics of this yeast are closer to an English strain of yeast than Chico.  Especially with the flocculation being medium to high.  That is why I was thinking Stone because WLP007 is like WLP001 and WLP002 had a child on Ritalin.  It generally attenuates out to 80% in 3 days, ferments in the high 60's, and flocs out like a brick in the fermenter, which it sounds like WLP090 does as well.

564

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WLP090 San Diego Super Yeast

« on: June 27, 2011, 08:14:48 PM »

What are the odds that this is a local propietary strain, i.e. Stone?

Stone is, or is very close to WLP007 (and certainly nowhere near WLP001, which this is supposed to be very close to). Some are saying it's Port, but I dunno if I buy that.

Fermentation temps are base on the size and shape of the fermermenter.  Commercial breweries can ferment warmer than homebrewers because of pressure on the yeast in the cone surpressing esters and fusels.  Not sure if it is Stone's yeast or not, just a theory.  I know White Labs propagates Stone's yeast.  Could be another local yeast, Port, Alesmith, etc. Ballast Point may be the logical option since that is how Chris White got started, now that I think about it. 

565

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WLP090 San Diego Super Yeast

« on: June 27, 2011, 06:56:38 PM »

What are the odds that this is a local propietary strain, i.e. Stone?

566

Ingredients / Re: Brett experience?

« on: June 27, 2011, 06:52:49 PM »

American or English Barleywine?  I might lay off or cut back on the dry hopping if you are planning to add cherries......

567

Ingredients / Re: Brett experience?

« on: June 27, 2011, 02:10:48 PM »

I would transfer off of your primary yeast cake prior to adding the Brett. of your choice. I think I saw something where Vinnie of Russian River said Brett. can go down to 1.020-1.010 fairly quickly, but takes months to go from 1.010 to 1.000ish.  So let the primary fermentation finish out and with a Barleywine this can easily take a month. Then transfer to secondary and add cherries/Brett..  Then when finished bottle or keg.  Just make sure fermentation is complete with the Brett. prior to bottling or you will have bottle bombs on hand!

568

Ingredients / Re: Brett experience?

« on: June 27, 2011, 01:51:22 PM »

I would think Brett. Clausennii or Bruxellensis would be a better choice of Brett. based on what you want to do, but that is just my opinion.  It probably doesn't matter when you add the Brett. because it will ferment out all the sugars completely.  I would just add both in the secondary so I only have to transfer once.  But, that is my opinion because I am lazy

569

Ingredients / Re: What Specialty Grains?

« on: June 22, 2011, 09:14:05 AM »

You can make a pretty good imperial red/amber with your base beer and certainly make it maltier.  It will be closer to your goal of a barleywine in color and flavor.  Drop the C-45L and carapils. Add 1lb Munich 10L, 0.5-1lb Victory, A 2:1 ratio of Crystal 60L:Crystal 120L (1lb:0.5lb), and then 2oz. of chocolate malt.  Keep your hop amount and schedule the same. Mash 152-154F. Changing yeasts can also get you a maltier flavor/mouthfeel.  Try using an English strain like WLP002 vs. the very clean strain like WLP001

570

Beer Recipes / Re: Belgian Quadrupel ideas

« on: June 21, 2011, 08:54:42 AM »

 Some others have suggested starting it in the mid 60's and just letting it free-rise into the low 80s so I was going to try that.  I sure hope I don't get a ton of fusels.

You could always start in the 60's and control the free rise by gradually allowing it to ramp up if you have the ability to temp control.  The other option is to hold it steady in the 60's for the first 48-72hrs where most of the growth and esters occur and then ramping it up.  Both methods should control fusel alcohol formation if you are truly concerned about it.