Flaked barley works wonders.
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at least you ain't drinkin' outta the fermenter!
Some people call it a racking cane...I call it a straw.
The Hop Stopper looks pretty effective, though, so I may give it a try and dispense with the bags and boil screen in the kettle, as it would serve that function rather nicely, or so it seems.
looks can be deceiving. I have not had much luck with it, nor have several others on the electricbrewery.com forum. YMMV
I just took a gravity sample on a 10 day old IPA. After I got my reading I put it in a PET bottle with a carbonator cap, hit it with 30 psi and stuck it in the freezer. In an hour I'll have a cold, carbed sample to taste.
I'll say this again because I think it warrants repeating. If you want to help the AHA out with the increasing demand and future success of the NHC, then begin your journey to become a BJCP judge and join us in judging this awesome competition. I've judged the first and second rounds of the last two years NHC's, and plan to do so again this year in NYC and Philly. The more judges we can recruit, the better off we'll be, for the impending growth of this national competition.
QuoteI use the Hop Stopper: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/hop-stopper
It's really quite a nice product. I tried just throwing pellets in & whirlpooling, then bagging them, then bazooka screens. This thing works EXCELLENT and will drain all but maybe 1/4 gallon from my kettle. I've used probably 10oz of pellets in the kettle once and it didn't even bat an eye. I have a feeling that it'll handle twice that. Best upgrade I've made in a long time.
I like the looks of that. Is it good at filtering break material as well as hops?
The steepness of the coned material in the center of the kettle is dependent upon the 'shear strength' of the material. In the case of the ground hop matter in pelletized hops, the shear strength is nearly zero since that cone is composed of hydrated proteins and vegetative materials. Essentially, its goose crap.
If you use whole hops, then the cone can take on more shape because there is mechanical, 'particle to particle' contact between the individual hop cones. That mechanical contact increases the shear strength of the mass and allows it to 'cone' better. One of my old brewing buddies pointed out that a good technique for improving the coning of the hops and trub was to include at least a small proportion of whole or plug hops in the hop bill to provide that strength to hold the cone together. I prefer pellet hops, but using 100% pellets hops will leave you with a 'flatter' cone nearly every time.
I hold the maltose rest for 30 on more malt forward beers and for 45 min on pilsners.
And yet, somehow this makes me say "I really want to drink this beer". I guess "cat pee" is a relative term lol.
I've only ever flipped through Clone Brews, but I remember saying "this doesn't seem right" to a few of the recipes for beers I'm familiar with. I know there's more than one way to skin a cat, but when a brewery lists their ingredients on their website and a clone recipe is way off in the specialty malts, then I don't have high hopes for that recipe.