211
Equipment and Software / Re: Refractometers
« on: November 08, 2010, 05:01:59 PM »
Moldy? Rinse with sanitizer before putting it away, or buy a 12-pack of pipettes. 
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212
Equipment and Software / Re: wort chiller
« on: November 08, 2010, 05:00:00 PM »
I got one of those Phil's Chiller kits a while ago. All I needed to do was get a 25' length of copper tubing and a garden hose. Inserting the copper tube into the garden hose was the most difficult part. We did it outside on the lawn (with a few beers in hand). Wrap the hose/copper tube around a corny keg and then use zip ties to hold it together.
One thing to note: I was using an acidic solution to clean out the coil every year to make sure any buildup was gone. Over time this corroded the internal copper tube (it breached while we were chilling the wort for a Belgian Dubbel) and it had to be replaced. Uncoiling the garden hose was a breeze, and we reused it for the next one. That experience convinced me that although my chiller doesn't look as sexy as an all-metal chiller, it's real easy to fix with a quick trip to the hardware store. Takes about 30 minutes or two beers to build the whole thing.
25' should be fine depending on the temperature of the water doing the chilling. I have a buddy that made a 50' one and in the winter time we have to periodically turn the chilling water off (54°F) because the wort is too cold to pitch.
One thing to note: I was using an acidic solution to clean out the coil every year to make sure any buildup was gone. Over time this corroded the internal copper tube (it breached while we were chilling the wort for a Belgian Dubbel) and it had to be replaced. Uncoiling the garden hose was a breeze, and we reused it for the next one. That experience convinced me that although my chiller doesn't look as sexy as an all-metal chiller, it's real easy to fix with a quick trip to the hardware store. Takes about 30 minutes or two beers to build the whole thing.
25' should be fine depending on the temperature of the water doing the chilling. I have a buddy that made a 50' one and in the winter time we have to periodically turn the chilling water off (54°F) because the wort is too cold to pitch.
213
Equipment and Software / Re: Refractometers
« on: November 08, 2010, 02:17:38 PM »
I too lost my dropper and this thread reminded me to find another. Just picked these up:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EFMLQ2
There are many other options out there, this is just one example.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EFMLQ2
There are many other options out there, this is just one example.
214
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: refrigerator versus chest freezer
« on: November 07, 2010, 08:00:11 PM »
I'd argue that you'd want to keep the sensor unchanged and let it sense the ambient temperature of the air in the cooling unit (fridge or freezer).
I understand the goal is to keep the liquid in the cooling unit as close to a certain temperature as possible, but these units are designed to cool the air, not a liquid in a container. If you put a probe in the liquid, it would be harder to control the temperature of the liquid. The cooling unit would not turn on until the liquid exceeded the range set on the thermostat. This would almost certainly mean the ambient air would be much warmer than the liquid. It takes more energy to heat and cool liquid than it does a gas.
These devices work on the concept of keeping the ambient air within a certain range. As long as the gas surrounding the liquid is maintained within a certain temperature, the temperature of the liquid should remain fairly consistent. Unless you're directly cooling the liquid with another liquid (like glycol) there's no reason to regulate the cooling based on the temperature of the liquid or any other liquid. It would be inefficient.
I understand the goal is to keep the liquid in the cooling unit as close to a certain temperature as possible, but these units are designed to cool the air, not a liquid in a container. If you put a probe in the liquid, it would be harder to control the temperature of the liquid. The cooling unit would not turn on until the liquid exceeded the range set on the thermostat. This would almost certainly mean the ambient air would be much warmer than the liquid. It takes more energy to heat and cool liquid than it does a gas.
These devices work on the concept of keeping the ambient air within a certain range. As long as the gas surrounding the liquid is maintained within a certain temperature, the temperature of the liquid should remain fairly consistent. Unless you're directly cooling the liquid with another liquid (like glycol) there's no reason to regulate the cooling based on the temperature of the liquid or any other liquid. It would be inefficient.
215
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: refrigerator versus chest freezer
« on: November 06, 2010, 07:51:32 PM »
I went with a fridge because they're easier to find and they're easier to work with. The initial setup can be a chore, but long-term there is very little worry about.
• The fridge will keep beer within serving temperature without any modifications. It's a fridge.
• Thermal temperature change from opening the door is actually less than if you opened a regular fridge. The kegs--when full--will cool the surrounding air and the temperature of the beer won't be affected. It's a fridge, it's designed to be opened and closed.
• Mounting external faucets is a challenge because the door needs a good amount of modification. Depending on the amount of faucets you want to use, the cost is on-par with buying a faucet post.
• The freezer door on the top won't get in the way if you use the standard black handles that come with the faucets, and measure before drilling (the height of the faucets is obviously important). Using custom or longer taps handles is a bad idea, not because of the freezer door but because of the angle required to close the faucet. The top of the handle will hit the fridge before the faucet closes completely.
• Fridges are easier (IMHO) to find. I picked up a dent-n-scratch fridge for $200. I use the freezer to store hops and other treats.
I think this is a good thread. Lots of good discussion. I just wanted to throw my $0.02 in from my fridge conversion experiences.
• The fridge will keep beer within serving temperature without any modifications. It's a fridge.
• Thermal temperature change from opening the door is actually less than if you opened a regular fridge. The kegs--when full--will cool the surrounding air and the temperature of the beer won't be affected. It's a fridge, it's designed to be opened and closed.
• Mounting external faucets is a challenge because the door needs a good amount of modification. Depending on the amount of faucets you want to use, the cost is on-par with buying a faucet post.
• The freezer door on the top won't get in the way if you use the standard black handles that come with the faucets, and measure before drilling (the height of the faucets is obviously important). Using custom or longer taps handles is a bad idea, not because of the freezer door but because of the angle required to close the faucet. The top of the handle will hit the fridge before the faucet closes completely.
• Fridges are easier (IMHO) to find. I picked up a dent-n-scratch fridge for $200. I use the freezer to store hops and other treats.
I think this is a good thread. Lots of good discussion. I just wanted to throw my $0.02 in from my fridge conversion experiences.
216
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Kegerator temp control
« on: November 06, 2010, 07:42:01 PM »
One other word of advice: When you inspect potential fridges, bring at least two kegs so you can measure the height from the crispers, the width across the fridge, and the depth of the fridge. If the kegs can rest on the crispers, the door will close. Also be mindful that you'll need to keep the plastic moulded door part intact. This will be your guide to cut a plastic replacement (Lowe's or Home Depot will have something) and it will also show you where you need to drill the 15-20 screw holes in the door.
Door modifications are the most complicated part of the conversion and be as meticulous as you can when doing these modifications. I usually put the plastic replacement on the door before drilling shank holes. Drill from the outside toward the inside because plastic is forgiving, metal is not. To keep the door closed while tapping, search for a draw hasp. It's the metal clamp you can see at the top left side of the door on the fridge, and it keeps the door closed until you release it. Otherwise, you'll be opening the door when you pull a handle.
Let me know if you have any other questions. I've screwed this process up enough to know how to do it right.
Door modifications are the most complicated part of the conversion and be as meticulous as you can when doing these modifications. I usually put the plastic replacement on the door before drilling shank holes. Drill from the outside toward the inside because plastic is forgiving, metal is not. To keep the door closed while tapping, search for a draw hasp. It's the metal clamp you can see at the top left side of the door on the fridge, and it keeps the door closed until you release it. Otherwise, you'll be opening the door when you pull a handle.
Let me know if you have any other questions. I've screwed this process up enough to know how to do it right.
217
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Kegerator temp control
« on: November 06, 2010, 03:17:18 PM »
I included the links to the larger images if you want to see the detail.
http://www.bacon-n-beer.com/fridge/fridge_1.jpg
http://www.bacon-n-beer.com/fridge/fridge_2.jpg
http://www.bacon-n-beer.com/fridge/fridge_3.jpg
http://www.bacon-n-beer.com/fridge/fridge_4.jpg
http://www.bacon-n-beer.com/fridge/fridge_1.jpg
http://www.bacon-n-beer.com/fridge/fridge_2.jpg
http://www.bacon-n-beer.com/fridge/fridge_3.jpg
http://www.bacon-n-beer.com/fridge/fridge_4.jpg
218
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Kegerator temp control
« on: November 06, 2010, 03:02:48 PM »
I have done a few fridge conversions. I like them because you don't have to worry about the temperature inside the fridge. It's a fridge and will keep beer between 34°F-48°F just by using the internal fridge dial. One thing to note during a conversion is the light bulb. The heat generated by a fridge light bulb will overpower the cooling done by the fridge itself. When you remove the plastic moulded part from the fridge door, there is a good chance that will prevent the light from turning off because that moulded part contacted the light switch in the fridge. You either need to loosen the bulb or duct tape the switch shut. Alternatively, you can put a non-working bulb in there as a placeholder.
Most inexpensive fridges have a compressor at the bottom back of the fridge and the heat dispersing element runs up the back. The sides and the top/bottom of the fridge are insulated with fiberglass insulation--very similar to home insulation. Drill a hole from the inside of the fridge only far enough to breach the plastic shell (pilot hole). With a metal rod (I cut a shirt hanger and used that) push it through the hole and tap it around. You should feel the tapping on the outside metal of the fridge and you should be able to determine if there is something in the way of your hole. There probably won't be anything there, and if so you can use a hole saw to cut through the plastic and the metal. Use silicone to seal up the hole after you've threaded the CO2 line through it.
It's best to do these modifications when the fridge is off and at room temperature. The sealant needs to be warm to cure properly.
If you are worried about drilling through the side of the fridge, you can go through the door. This is a pain in the butt because you need to be mindful of your CO2 tank and hose when you open the door, but there's nothing in the door but insulation so you don't have to worry about hitting an element.
I'll post some photos of the current fridge I have to give you some ideas.
Most inexpensive fridges have a compressor at the bottom back of the fridge and the heat dispersing element runs up the back. The sides and the top/bottom of the fridge are insulated with fiberglass insulation--very similar to home insulation. Drill a hole from the inside of the fridge only far enough to breach the plastic shell (pilot hole). With a metal rod (I cut a shirt hanger and used that) push it through the hole and tap it around. You should feel the tapping on the outside metal of the fridge and you should be able to determine if there is something in the way of your hole. There probably won't be anything there, and if so you can use a hole saw to cut through the plastic and the metal. Use silicone to seal up the hole after you've threaded the CO2 line through it.
It's best to do these modifications when the fridge is off and at room temperature. The sealant needs to be warm to cure properly.
If you are worried about drilling through the side of the fridge, you can go through the door. This is a pain in the butt because you need to be mindful of your CO2 tank and hose when you open the door, but there's nothing in the door but insulation so you don't have to worry about hitting an element.
I'll post some photos of the current fridge I have to give you some ideas.
219
All Things Food / Re: Venison rib recipes?
« on: November 05, 2010, 02:34:42 PM »
There's no real meat on deer ribs, at least not on NJ deer. I tried to prepare some ribs and there wasn't enough meat on them to do really anything with.
221
The Pub / Re: Beer drinking and brewing music
« on: November 04, 2010, 10:03:15 PM »
Black Sabbath makes our brews come out better. Don't know why, but we have to have at least one Sabbath song playing on brew day.
222
The Pub / Re: Election Day in the USA!!!
« on: November 03, 2010, 09:32:54 AM »I remember that when I lived in Ohio, on voting day they would not open the bars or the liquor stores until after the polls closed. I'm not sure if they still do that.If they gave out free beer at the polls, I bet more people would show up....and it'd have to be a good selection of beer...
Didn't they try that once.
Things have changed quite a bit from the early days of our republic. Candidates used to roll out barrels of beer or whiskey at the polling spots to ensure a good turnout. I'm sure the quality of the drink provided was at least an element in the decision making process of the voters.
In Ireland back in the day they would give you a pint of Guinness after you gave blood. It was incentive for the folks to donate. I'm not sure if they still do that, but beer motivated mankind to create society and such, so I believe it should still be used as a catalyst for great things!
223
The Pub / Re: Election Day in the USA!!!
« on: November 03, 2010, 07:16:07 AM »
If they gave out free beer at the polls, I bet more people would show up....and it'd have to be a good selection of beer...
224
The Pub / Re: Election Day in the USA!!!
« on: November 02, 2010, 12:41:56 PM »
I elected to make a beer this weekend, maybe two.
Oh, the groundhog is a commie.
Oh, the groundhog is a commie.
225
All Grain Brewing / Re: Why mash for 60 minutes?
« on: October 31, 2010, 07:38:30 PM »
Is this total mash time? I never look at the total mash time but pay more attention to the temperature ranges I'm at for the styles and final body of the beer I'm brewing. We don't use a "one size fits all" mash.
We'll spend 10 minutes at 121°F for a decent dough-in with a very low water/grain ratio. Just enough to get everything wet. Then we'll infuse up to 131°F for under-modified malts/wheat/rye for 20 minutes. From there we decoct up to 154°F for 45 minutes. However, we might change the mash and cut out the 131°F protein rest and go to 148°F and hold there for 30 minutes and raise up to 158°F for 15 minutes. Again, depends on the style and how we want the body to come out. Then we decoct to 165°F and mash out with 175°F water very slowly. Sparging takes at least 30 minutes.
So our total mash time is over an hour, but rather than focus on that we're more focused on the temperature ranges, the amount of time we spend there, and what goodies we're extracting from the grains.
We'll spend 10 minutes at 121°F for a decent dough-in with a very low water/grain ratio. Just enough to get everything wet. Then we'll infuse up to 131°F for under-modified malts/wheat/rye for 20 minutes. From there we decoct up to 154°F for 45 minutes. However, we might change the mash and cut out the 131°F protein rest and go to 148°F and hold there for 30 minutes and raise up to 158°F for 15 minutes. Again, depends on the style and how we want the body to come out. Then we decoct to 165°F and mash out with 175°F water very slowly. Sparging takes at least 30 minutes.
So our total mash time is over an hour, but rather than focus on that we're more focused on the temperature ranges, the amount of time we spend there, and what goodies we're extracting from the grains.