Messages

16

Kegging and Bottling / Hop Rocket Randall and Grassy Flavors

« on: August 06, 2012, 02:39:25 pm »

I recently purchased a Hop Rocket, and last night was my first attempt using it as a Randall.  I had an IPA, through which I filtered 2 oz of flowers (1 oz Citra, 1 oz Amarillo).  The first and last pints off the keg were incredibly grassy.  I doubt that it had to do with the hop varieties, but maybe a short contact time with the hops? I dont know- I am really disappointed since I bought the device for mainly Randall purposes.  Anybody have a remedy for this issue?  It seems most people's issues are with it are with foaming with seemingly no mention of grassiness.

I say the first and last pints off the keg were grassy because I had 2 pints last night and when I got home from work today I found my four kegs + 20 lbs CO2 tank floating in IPA.....before cleaning everything up, I drew one final grassy tasting pint of the keg. Everything seems to be hooked up properly, even the $30 I spent in Blichmann quick connects.  Seems to be leaking from the bottom clamp. ?  Huge kick to the nuts.  I hope that someone has the answer for how to avoid grassy-ness in the future.

17

Equipment and Software / FermWrap on Fermenator?

« on: May 15, 2012, 01:37:56 pm »

I currently use FermWraps and glass carboys for raising fermentation temps in my basement during the winter months.  I must admit that this simple system works great, but I love the idea of someday owning a stainless steel conical.  Would the Fermwrap allow you to raise and maintain ale fermentation temperatures on a Blichmann Fermenator or is the wall of the Fermenator too thick to make much of a difference?

18

Events / NHC 1st Round - Georgia Shipping Confusion

« on: March 19, 2012, 06:50:25 am »

I just went to UPS to ship my entry to the Georgia regional site.  It seems that either the City or the Zip is wrong.  The zip (30076) is for Roswell, the mail in site is Alpharetta.  The seem to be side by side cities, the problem is the road connects the two towns !!!! I told them to send it to Alpharetta- not sure if my entry will make it.

19

Equipment and Software / Re: Refractometer FG Calculator (now with PHP!)

« on: January 28, 2012, 01:12:57 pm »

Thanks for the spreadsheet- it definetely helps sort out a bunch of confusion I am having with this instrument.  Can someone explain why a refractometer if only good for pre-fermentation readings. I did not see instructions for only using the refractometer pre fermentation, but now I do notice the "SG wort" label under the specific gravities. Does yeast in suspension bend light that much to throw off the FG readings?

20

Equipment and Software / Fermwrap and fermentation control

« on: November 03, 2011, 08:53:02 am »

Can anybody comment on how well the Fermwrap works for maintaining desired fermentation temps:  http://morebeer.com/view_product/16674/

Also, I was thinking about buying two ferm wraps for my two 6.5 gal carboys (10 gal batches) but use just one Ranco (therefore one probe - http://morebeer.com/view_product/16666/beerwinecoffee/Ranco_Digital_Temperature_Controller_-_Wired)  and one thermal well.

The idea would be to place the probe into just one carboy, connecting the two Fermwraps into a powerstrip to the Ranco.  Since the 2 carboys would be very close in total volume, same material, etc.  the temperatures would be fairly close and therefore 2 Rancos would be overkill.  Whaddaya think? 

21

Equipment and Software / Cleaning a Cold plate and a Therminator

« on: October 29, 2011, 08:10:01 am »

I haven't fired up the stainless steel draft cold plate in while and I am looking for some advice on what products to use to ensure a solid deep clean.  I only have Star San and Iodine on hand. 

Also, I have seen posts on placing the Therminator in the oven after multiple uses. I have been thorough with my post chilling maintenance, but would like to do a nice invasive nuking of the chiller now that it has been used 10 times or so.  For those of you who bake it, for how long and at what temps?  Any downsides?  Can the cold plate go in too? 

Thanks in advance.....

22

All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash bed temp

« on: October 23, 2011, 10:02:45 am »

I totally agree that temperature is critical (I have a friend who all grain brews and yet never takes a temp - he tells me I worry too much!).  As far as calibration I also agree that a 150 calibration would be ideal.  It does seem to be accurate with the lower temps that  can calibrate against.  All I have for calibration purposes are using a sealed container (beaker with plastic wrap) in an environmental chambers at work (75-80 F) or the chest freezer (35 F).  Again, not ideal.  I always thought analog thermometers were fool proof.  I am still puzzled as how three thermometers could have a range of 20 degrees around the 150 mark?

I also agree with the other post that it might not be enough stirring to uniformly distribute the temp.  I think next time I will be more careful with the strike water and avoid having to stir.

As far as whats in the kettle> after recirc. it was flowing clear with 75% efficiency.  Maybe I do worry too much.  I just want to make consistent beers....

23

All Grain Brewing / Mash bed temp

« on: October 23, 2011, 07:39:09 am »

Today I had to adjust the mash bed with cool water since the strike was a little hotter than usual (mash bed at t=0 was 160 F).  A while ago I had some issues with the standard lab thermometers (3 thermometers were giving me vastly different readings) so I bought a digital thermometer probe.  The probe is nice since I can monitor different depths of the mash bed. However, today I noticed that I was getting readings between 160 and 140 F depending on the bed.  I stirred the bed on multiple occasions (more than I would like), sealed the tun and waited.  I figured that the bed would adjust to a semi-uniform temperature.  45 mins in right now and it hasnt.  The variability improved somewhat (143-156).  I had never noticed this before, but might have been because I used lab thermometers which cant be buried to different depths while giving a reading. 

So my question is, is there is inherent variability in the mash bed (other specifics: rubber maid cooler, 30 lbs of malt), or is this an effect of fiddling with the strike water.  If there is the inherent problem with differences in the mash bed temp, do you measure temp from a specific location or depth (e.g. middle of the tun, 4" deep) or do you look for an average temp across your measurements to fall into the 150-155 range?   I would imagine that the size (lbs of malt) and shape of the container matter too.

24

Equipment and Software / Looking for styrofoam containers for carboys

« on: September 09, 2011, 10:06:03 am »

I was given some used 6.5 gal carboys (a decade ago) that were contained in a two piece styrofoam container.  I imgine it is what they originally were shipped in. I think that they are really handy- never worry about breaking the carboy when setting it down.  Over the years, with water and wort spilling down the sides they have become uncleanable (and down right nasty).  Does anyone know of a place where I could get a new set?

25

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Started washing my yeast...

« on: August 04, 2011, 07:02:16 am »

I am surprised that more people dont rinse yeast.  I would say that as long as you employ Good Lab Practices it is the bee's knees.  A big factor is saved costs: I have definetely cut costs on the 20+ (12 gal.) batches that I have brewed this year. 

Dividing the yeast from a batch I am only on the 6th generation (since each batch makes more yeast than needed for one batch) and have seen no decline in % attenuation.   The yeast I rinsed last night = 83% attenuation.  I keep records on the characteristics of the yeast (time to ferment, volume, etc.) and have observed healthy fermentations and no off flavors. I had originally planned to buy fresh yeast once a year.  I am not sure that I will at this point. 

Since adding a Therminator to my operation (and therefore a strainer/hop sock in the kettle) my Primary is super clean, beer is much clearer, and multiple rinses dont seem necessary.  (i only dry hop in the secondary, too).

Two weeks ago, I made two 12 gal batches in 2 days.  One was straight pitched yeast (pulled out of the fridge, brought to room temp) the other was put in a starter from Beer #1 mash run off.  I didnt notice any differences in the time to ferment (primary) or time it took to become active.  I am not sure that I will be making starters in the future because of this.(unless the yeast is > 1.5 months old.  I think 2 months is longest I have gone before pitching rinsed yeast (no ill effects, just not comfortable going longer).

26

Yeast and Fermentation / Mr Malty Pitching Rate Calculator for Washed Yeast

« on: May 02, 2011, 09:38:16 am »

I am wondering about how to use the Mr. Malty calculator for washed yeast.  Should I treat it like liquid yeast or slurry?

The reason I ask is that I have been washing my yeast and storing it for up to two months.  I store it in 2000 mL Ball jars- the yeast portion ends up being about 400-500 mL.  The final product looks like a massive White Labs vial. The online calculator says that the liquid yeast is 54% viable after 2 months, and the yeast slurry is only 10% viable.  I assume that the washed yeast is the slurry.  However, I have seen no ill effects of time to ferment or attentuation that would be indicative of 10% viability.

Secondly, if washed yeast is somehow different from a vial of yeast, what magic is done to increase the viability? 

27

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast cake rehydration

« on: April 06, 2011, 11:02:21 am »

So, given this information would overpitching be OK for styles where you dont want an estery, fruity taste?   I make a lot of IPAs with higher amounts (than recommended according to the Mr. Malty calculator) of washed California Ale yeast slurry - and I dont want a high amount of esters in flavor.

28

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Surface Sterilization of Dry Hops

« on: March 14, 2011, 03:25:17 pm »

Thanks for the quick response- I should have posted yesterday. I worked at a 10 BBL brewpub in Mass (nameless to protect the innocent, although their dry hopped beers are still excellent).  Sanitizing seemed logical at the time.  Thanks to one and all for saving me some extra time from here on out.  For the record, I did transfer the water along with it. 

29

General Homebrew Discussion / Surface Sterilization of Dry Hops

« on: March 14, 2011, 02:31:56 pm »

I am frequent dry hopper.  Something that I always do that I learned in my days of commercial brewing is to "surface sterilize" (for lack of a better term) the hops.  I basically bring a pot of water to a boil, drop the hops in, and essentially nuke any nasties, before adding to the secondary.  Then Iput the hops in the carboy, and let the hops cool before racking on to the hops.  At the brewery we would place the hops into a bag, place the bag in a grant, and run boiling water over the bag for a few minutes before adding to the secondary.

After doing this 50+ times at home, I began to question if this is necessary.  Any thoughts, pro or con?

30

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Overchilled wort + Yeast

« on: March 03, 2011, 04:49:07 pm »

Man, I gotta get me one of these Therminators and drill my kettle for a ball valve. 

I really struggled with the thought of buying a Therminator-
Therminator= $200,
+ $20 for backflush assembly,
 + 40 for weldless conversion kit
+ $12 for a titanium nitride drill bit (plus the stress of possibly ruining my kettle)
+ $40 in part to build a hop stopper
+ $15 for quick connects
+ $5 for attachments they dont sell (hard to hook a male thread outlet to a male thread on a garden hose)

= in the end......I think it might be the best piece of brewing equipment I have ever owned.  Its truly amazing.