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Events / Re: Big Brew Day 2013
« on: Today at 08:36:46 am »If he has that Ukulele close at hand IM IN!!
You DON'T want to hear Denny play that.
either that, or Denny had one too many hop joints at NHC
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You DON'T want to hear Denny play that.
either that, or Denny had one too many hop joints at NHC
2
The Pub / Re: http://tinychat.com/roffenburger
« on: May 17, 2013, 09:51:14 pm »
I'll be in there for about an hour.
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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: When did you switch to all grain?
« on: May 15, 2013, 08:52:35 am »
I was also one of the quick-switchers. It took me about 3 months and 6 batches. I put a bazooka screen in an old cooler, and I was off and never looked back. I will still do extract batches on occasion, simply because they are easy. However, most of my session beers require a lower fermentability than I can get out of extract.
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Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Extract kit question
« on: May 15, 2013, 08:47:06 am »
Denny's on fire!
Also, The reason for specialty grains is that you have more control over the flavor of the beer. Extract has grains that you might not want for that particular type, and once they are extract, you can't get them out.
When I did extract brews, I only used the pilsen light extract, and added whatever specialty grains I needed in order to make the flavor I wanted. Most of the malts which add color are specialty grains, and don't need to be mashed.
Also, The reason for specialty grains is that you have more control over the flavor of the beer. Extract has grains that you might not want for that particular type, and once they are extract, you can't get them out.
When I did extract brews, I only used the pilsen light extract, and added whatever specialty grains I needed in order to make the flavor I wanted. Most of the malts which add color are specialty grains, and don't need to be mashed.
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Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: dry hopping for the first time
« on: May 14, 2013, 08:30:43 am »
I agree with everything thebigbaker said.
On the sanitization note: New homebrewers (myself included) are way too worried about post ferment sanitation. Once the yeast ferments the beer, it is very inhospitable to bugs. A few bacteria falling into the fermenter are not going to cause anything problematic. If you can't pull a sample (or add hops) without infecting your beer, maybe brewing isn't for you
.
Remember, Relax, Don't worry, have a homebrew.
Or as I like to say, "It's still going to make beer."
On the sanitization note: New homebrewers (myself included) are way too worried about post ferment sanitation. Once the yeast ferments the beer, it is very inhospitable to bugs. A few bacteria falling into the fermenter are not going to cause anything problematic. If you can't pull a sample (or add hops) without infecting your beer, maybe brewing isn't for you
.Remember, Relax, Don't worry, have a homebrew.
Or as I like to say, "It's still going to make beer."
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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Bottling prep
« on: May 14, 2013, 08:25:10 am »the towel is very important - you WILL spill beer
I am sure I am not the first person to come up with this, but I did come up with it independently. I fill my bottles inside a cookie sheet. then I can just pick up the cookie sheet, toss it in the sink, and not worry about any sticky beer residue on the floor (which drives my wife crazy).
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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Irish Red kit from Midwest- through primary in 2 days?
« on: May 10, 2013, 11:38:29 pm »
If you are fermenting in a bucket (which it sounds like you are) you probably have enough leakage to ensure that you don't see airlock activity once fermentation slows a bit. I would leave it in for another 10 or so days, take a gravity sample, wait 3 more days, take a second gravity sample. if the samples are the same (I would bet they are), go ahead and bottle. If not, wait 3 more days, rinse and repeat.
Re: secondary. Secondary is only truly useful for homebrewers when you are doing a secondary fermentation (adding something with sugar to the beer after primary fermentation). Otherwise, the possibility of contamination and the probability of oxidation outweigh the minor benefits of the clarity (it will settle in the bottle anyway). I would recommend against secondary.
Just my 2 cents.
Re: secondary. Secondary is only truly useful for homebrewers when you are doing a secondary fermentation (adding something with sugar to the beer after primary fermentation). Otherwise, the possibility of contamination and the probability of oxidation outweigh the minor benefits of the clarity (it will settle in the bottle anyway). I would recommend against secondary.
Just my 2 cents.
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All Grain Brewing / Re: % of Munich for light summer ale
« on: May 03, 2013, 08:59:37 am »looks good.
Think about mashing fairly high (158ish) so it doesn't attenuate too much. I think that's a big key for session beers.
I think this is the most important thing you can do to make a session beer not watery. I mash my mild at 162. It keeps the body of a normal strength beer, but it isn't cloyingly sweet like crystal.
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Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bottling Yeast Choice for Imperial Stout
« on: April 24, 2013, 11:34:21 pm »most of the priming calculators I know of take beer temp into consideration if you enter it accurately.
Temperature, yes, but not time.
True,
I always assumed that the temp calculations are based one the assumption that the beer has been at that temp long enough to reach equilibrium with the ambient atmosphere at which point more time shouldn't make any difference given that the headspace of your fermenter should be pretty much full of co2 that whole time.
I believe the OP is worried about the amount of CO2 which escapes the crown cap over time after a beer reaches carbonation.
I don't know if there is a formula, and I don't know that it is worth adjusting your priming sugar for it.
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Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Extract Mint Stout
« on: April 24, 2013, 11:31:30 pm »
I agree with all of the above, RE: priming sugar.
The only thing I can think about the lack of head retention is that the oil in the mint reduced it, but I don't think mint extract has that much (if any) oil in it.
The only thing I can think about the lack of head retention is that the oil in the mint reduced it, but I don't think mint extract has that much (if any) oil in it.
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The Pub / Re: Sh!t Beer Geeks Say
« on: April 24, 2013, 06:46:29 pm »
"Its like being smashed in the face by a christmas tree with mangoes in it."
Only beer.
Only beer.
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Going Pro / Re: Logo Feedback
« on: April 23, 2013, 10:30:46 pm »Some of the logos kind of remind me of this one from a local brewery where I know and like the owner, brewer, and several of the other guys that work there.
My only problem with Big Al is that it is a long drive to White Center.
On the logo question. I have no idea.
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All Grain Brewing / Re: how to decrease my efficiency ?
« on: April 23, 2013, 08:42:17 pm »
the reason you are concerned about sparge pH is because as the pH increases, you are more likely to extract tannins from the husks. I thought that the goal was to keep the sparge gravity above 1.008, but I am not sure (I am a batch sparger). I wouldn't worry too much about it if you are not tasting tannins.
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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Competition results - Bad addition on one of my sheets - what to do?
« on: April 22, 2013, 05:05:00 pm »+ However many it takes! That's why at least once a year I brew her a fruit wheat with her choice of fruit. Not because I like the style. We all get the idea !
I have a brown porter that I brew with a pound of Blackberry Honey every 6 months or so that I call "Happy Wife, Happy Life Porter" It's my wife's favorite beer.
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Beer Travel / Yakima, WA
« on: April 22, 2013, 04:05:54 pm »
I will be in Yakima for this entire week for work. I was wondering if anyone on the forums wanted to meet up, or if anyone could give me recommendations for places I should eat/drink.
I do intend on hitting the Keg and Cork, because it had pretty good reviews, and looks like it has a quality selection.
I do intend on hitting the Keg and Cork, because it had pretty good reviews, and looks like it has a quality selection.