Carbonation makes a HUGE difference, especially in a lower gravity beer. Reserve judgement until it is fully carbonated (2 weeks at room temperature after bottling, then at least 2 days in the fridge). I bet it will be a damn good beer.
This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
All good ideas. I can only measure down to whole grams so I am not sure if that would be accurate enough. It looks like it would be about 2.21 g of table sugar per bottle according to what I normally do. I could do 2 g per bottle and just accept that it will be a little off.
You would want to keep any sugar additions below 10% of the fermentables. I don't if others would recommend this but it seemed to work well for me.
I agree with everything said so far.
Yes to Light DME
Yes to Warrior for Bittering
Yes to watch the crystal/no dextrine
This is how I would break out your hops
1/2 oz Amarillo 1/2 oz Cascade FWH
1oz Warrior @60
Take 1oz of each of FF, Amarillo and Cascade, and break them up into 1/3 oz each to blend
1oz blend at 15, 5, and FO
1oz amarillo and 1oz cascade DH
Thats just how I would do it as an IPA, I have a similar Pale going with Cascade, Zythos and Citra.
It mixes initially but in absence of air currents or over movement it will form layers.I don't remember that from chemistry class. Gasses mix unformly regardless of weight. Stratification is only temporary and acheived with gentle handling. (But chemistry was a long time ago)
Never tried this by gypsum might do better made into a slurry with just a tiny bit of water. Then add that to the larger volume.
I've lately been mashing all the base malts, adjusted to proper pH with acid, capping the finished mash with crystal and roast malts if any, then adding salts in the kettle, like Denny suggested. I add a little acid to the sparge water so the mash pH doesn't rise during sparging.
I'm using three piece. It won't fit with S type unless I'm using a 3 gallon carboy.. What do you mean about the foil, u skip the airlock all together, throughout the entire fermentation??
Anyone find the original article yet? I haven't been able to dig it up on google scholar.
The trouble with "best by" is it doesn't tell you when it was bottled. Fuller's beers have a "best before" date, but it must be a year or more after bottling. The last time I bought their ESB, it was oxidized and nothing like the beer I've had in England.And really, no brewery is going to print a best buy date that is within a month or 2, or even 4, of production, which is what's needed. It would kill them.
Well that is just not true, Stone has it at 90 days on some beers and 120 days on some other beers. They are in the process of opening the largest restaurant in San Diego. Here is a link, I'm sure you will find more breweries that do it also. https://sites.google.com/site/freshbeeronly/u-s-breweries