Messages

31

The Pub / Re: Why I run Windows

« on: May 09, 2013, 06:52:05 PM »

SSD has its own pitfalls. im not convinced the technology is 100% stable yet.  but it sure is getting there:)

I can't argue with that, but they're so damn fast that it's totally worth it to me. The first time I booted into Windows in 30 seconds I was hooked.

32

The Pub / Re: Best TV theme song

« on: May 09, 2013, 08:36:53 AM »

THE BEST IS...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=roHYXrLhmHc

Nice! Had to break out the fretless after listening to that...

33

Beer Recipes / Re: For my next stunt

« on: May 09, 2013, 08:26:04 AM »

Ok cool then I would be hitting my target if its not like bud

2007 is believed to be Bud's yeast......

http://www.mrmalty.com/yeast.htm

Wyeast seems to confirm this http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=26

Wyeast 2007 is the classic American lager strain. This mild, neutral strain produces beers with a nice malty character and a smooth palate. It ferments dry and crisp with minimal sulfur or diacetyl. Beers from this strain exhibit the characteristics of the most popular lager in America.

Maybe it's the power of suggestion, but I'm definitely picking up a Bud-like note 3 weeks into lagering on my hoppy Helles Bock. It's not necessarily a bad thing, but it does stick out as a distinct American lager flavor.

34

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: British Yeast Recommendation

« on: May 09, 2013, 08:18:33 AM »

I have to agree on the ESB yeast.  It's my current non-Belgian favorite.

I'd also like a good dry yeast substitute.  I am not a fan of Nottingham.  I've not used S-04 that I can recall, but I believe it may be similar to the ESB yeast.

Yep, S-04 rocks just as hard as 1968. Tastes great, ferments like a champ and drops like a sack of bricks when it's done.

35

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Drinking while brewing

« on: May 08, 2013, 12:04:17 PM »

seems like a few of you are not very well functioning drunks. Just sayin'.

I think it's an acquired skill !  Took some trial and error.

'

yeah, i think they just need more practice till they can do it easily

Agreed. I'm way out of practice. Having a 2-year old will do that to you. Once my son is old enough that I can let him drive on brewday, then I might be inclined to sample more while brewing.

36

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Lemonade in beer

« on: May 08, 2013, 12:01:35 PM »

This thread has me thinking of an idea I had a while back that I wanted to try. I was thinking of trying to brew a hard lemonade using DME as my sweetener. By using a yeast that doesn't attenuate very well (like a wine yeast) you could keep it from drying out completely but still be able to bottle prime. I'm curious how much lemonade character makes it into the finished beer at this ratio of lemonade to beer.

37

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Give this guy some beer

« on: May 08, 2013, 09:50:18 AM »

What a douche.

Great way to invite a friend into the craft beer community: acting like you're better than his beer of choice (and gift to you).

Give this guy a kick in the ass.

He's probably just a Bud Light drinker who thinks that the PBR is too heavy for his tastes.

38

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Room Temperature after Bottling

« on: May 08, 2013, 09:48:11 AM »

Interestingly (to me anyway), I recently pulled a beer that I'd just bottled 5 -6 days ago. Figured I was pulling it early, but wanted to check the carbonation. Wow, it was almost a gusher. There was a real pop when I opened the flip top and lots and lots of foam. Fearing contamination I tasted it and it seemed fine (for a room temp IPA). Next thought was too much sugar, so I got everything in the fridge. Opened a cooler bottle last night and the carbonation was perfect. I think the cause is definately the warmer temps in May (mid 70's this week). Carbonating quicker and higher pressure when the gas in the bottle is warm.

You've just talked me into cracking into the batch of saison I just bottled a week sooner than usual.

39

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: blending beers

« on: May 08, 2013, 09:46:03 AM »

I got past the "I don't want to dump any of my beer" stage pretty quick, and I'm much better for it. Sure, you could try to blend it, and you might even make a decent beer. But, wouldn't you rather brew 5 gallons of something you want to brew instead of trying to fix something that's broken? Otherwise you've just dedicated 2 brew days and batches to an iffy beer. Sounds like throwing good money after bad to me.

If you really want to try to "fix" that beer, I say dump the batch you have and rebrew a new version of the recipe that is closer to what you want. You'll get a lot more out of it in the end.

40

Equipment and Software / Re: getting rid of the smell

« on: May 08, 2013, 07:46:33 AM »

The basalmic ones may actually be OK for sours.

Nice tip on the baking soda. That's another one of those "why the hell didn't I think of that" moments that I always seem to have on this forum.

41

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: When to start checking OG

« on: May 08, 2013, 07:39:45 AM »

You're looking for FG, not OG (OG= original gravity, FG = final gravity).

Depending on the starting gravity and health/quantity of yeast pitched, the beer could be finished in a matter of days. Still, yeast will continue to clean up fermentation byproducts for some time afterwards. I leave all my ales in primary for 2 weeks (longer for gravity > 1.070ish) as a matter of procedure. You could probably get away with as little as a week for a lower-gravity brew, but I encourage you not to rush if you can afford to leave it in primary longer.

You could use an autosiphon, but you should consider investing in a beer/wine thief. Just make sure everything is sanitized.

Definitely taste your sample (just don't pour it back, obviously). It will change a lot once it is bottled/carbonated/aged, but you should taste as much as you can at each point in the process. Also, if you pick up any diacetyl (butter/butterscotch) or acetaldehyde (green apple), you know the beer needs more time on the yeast cake to help clean those up.

Once it hits FG, it can generally use some more time to let the yeast clean up some fermentation byproducts. Yeast may be done fermenting sugars in as few as a couple of days, but they will continue to break down other byproducts for a little time afterwards.

42

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermenting in blue (or red) coolers?

« on: May 08, 2013, 07:30:56 AM »

I don't think you will be able to seal the cooler and attach an air-lock.

I wouldn't think sealing the cooler is critical. At least not during active fermentation.

I've left carboys open while they are blowing off to no ill effect.  Of course I put the airlock back on when they settled down.

For the cooler, I would think it should seal well enough to keep most stuff out even after active fermentation stops.  Probably not good for long term aging.

+1

I have a few lids laying around that I never drilled out or installed grommets on. Sometimes they're all I have laying around so I just lay them loosely over the bucket. For 2 weeks or so in primary I've never noticed an issue. For long-term aging I'd definitely want to rack to a carboy, though.

43

Beer Recipes / Re: For my next stunt

« on: May 08, 2013, 07:00:25 AM »

My next brew I'm trying a German (no adjunct)  Pilsner but with American hops.
9# Castle Pils
1# Carapils
No sparge 9 gallon mash at 146f
90 min boil shooting for 5 gallons of 1.050
1 oz centennial FWH
1 oz Willamette at 15 min
1 oz Mt Hood at FO

Cold crash at 45f decant to primary
Wyeast 2007 at 50f till <1.020
Step up to 60f Drest till no diacetyle or Acetaldehyde detected
Step down to 35f and keg condition for 4 weeks.

The same day I'm doing an American No Adjunct malty pre prohibition, which will be more experimental.
10# Maris Otter
No sparge mashed at 150f
1 oz Simcoe at FWH
1 oz Amarillo at 15 min
1 oz Cascade at FO

Wyeast 2035 at 50 till <1.020
Etc same as above

A) These both look like they will be tasty brews.

B) The first brew might be passably close to what you are shooting for (a German Pils style with American hops). The second brew will be nowhere close to a CAP, even though you're using 2035. It will probably be a pretty good APA, though.

I really like brewing hybrid styles myself (i.e., continental lager styles with New World hops). The thing is, if you really want to pick up on the lager side of the hybrid I think you need to keep the malt bill close to the intended style. Lagers are typically very malt-forward (and most lager yeasts will push it further in that direction as well), so you kind of need to catch some of that to make it "lagery".

I also found that WY2007 is so clean that it doesn't really leave any lager character behind. I brewed a hoppy Helles Bock recently with it, and it was too clean. I might as well have used a clean ale yeast and saved myself the trouble. In the future I'm going to stick with continental lager strains for my hybrid styles.

44

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast Storage

« on: May 08, 2013, 06:09:33 AM »

I don't think there's a problem using the breast milk containers. Just keep in mind that you will need a few if you intend to save a whole pitch worth of slurry. If you plan on regrowing them in starters, then these are probably an ideal size.

45

All Grain Brewing / Re: REALLY no sparge

« on: May 08, 2013, 06:02:52 AM »

The only thing I'd be worried about is the no boil part. I guess you need to make sure you mash high and long enough to kill off any bugs that are hitching a ride on your ingredients and equipment. I'd probably Star San anything that touches the mash just to be on the safe side.

You also wouldn't be isomerizing any alpha acids even if you mash hop, so you probably want to look into alternate ingredients to provide a bit of bitterness.