Messages

16

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Finishing gravity results

« on: February 26, 2013, 02:53:57 PM »

The one thing that sticks out is that the refractometer just isn't very accurate on fermented beer.

I was actually surprised you got so close given that you're using BeerSmith.

Is there a more accurate calculator?

17

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Finishing gravity results

« on: February 26, 2013, 02:38:11 PM »

Temperature at the first reading was 69 degrees, and the temperature at the second reading was 63. I adjusted the first hydrometer reading to account for the temperature by adding .001 points.

18

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Finishing gravity results

« on: February 26, 2013, 02:36:37 PM »

Anyway, not sure what to make of most of this information, but I thought I would just put it out there as some data points. The one thing that sticks out is that the refractometer just isn't very accurate on fermented beer. Also, I think the co2 in solution might make the first hydrometer readings a little higher.

19

Yeast and Fermentation / Finishing gravity results

« on: February 26, 2013, 02:33:28 PM »

I split a batch of 1.056 pale ale into four different carboys, and pitched four different yeasts. The four yeasts are WY1056, WY1318, WY1968, and WLP007. The beer has fermented for about 10 days and is done now. I thought I would take hydrometer samples of all of them a record the results, and I also wanted to test the refractometer reading against the hydrometer.

First beer: Yeast: WY1056
First hydrometer reading: 1.013, refractometer reading (adjusted in BeerSmith): 1.016
then I waited a couple of hours and took the readings again with the same sample
Second hydrometer reading: 1.011, refractometer reading: 1.010

Second beer: Yeast: WY1318
First hydrometer reading: 1.016, refractometer reading: 1.018
waited a couple of hours
Second hydrometer reading: 1.015, refractometer reading: 1.013

Third beer: Yeast: WY1968
First hydrometer reading: 1.017, refractometer reading: 1.020
waited a couple of hours
Second hydrometer reading: 1.015, refractometer reading: 1.020

Fourth beer: Yeast: WLP007
First hydrometer reading: 1.014, refractometer reading: 1.016
waited a couple of hours
Second hydrometer reading: 1.013, refractometer reading: 1.015

20

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: wlp001 for Scottish 60/ or 70/

« on: February 25, 2013, 06:54:48 PM »

I guess it depends on what you goals are.

If you are looking for a beer that you want to drink and aren't worried about styles, then 1056 will be fine. If you are looking to make a "Scottish Ale" then you need to use Scottish yeast, or at least something that will replicate the flavors associated with Scottish ale yeast.

Personally, I don't care much about BJCP styles, but I don't like 1056 that much for beers that are malt-focused. It is amazing for hoppy beers, but most English or Scottish yeast tend to emphasize malt flavors.

21

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: The Mad Fermentationist's Top 10 Myths

« on: February 08, 2013, 08:16:19 AM »

But I feel like if you aren't counting your time you aren't really being honest to yourself. Saturday and Sunday mornings are hard to put a monetary value on.

I woudn't factor my time into the cost of homebrewing. Sure I may be able to make money during the time I am homebrewing, but I LIKE to homebrew. I certainly wouldn't pay someone to come over to my house and set up the brew system, brew a batch and the get it in the fermenters for me. Come check on it daily and keg it when it is ready. Those are things I enjoy doing on Saturday and Sunday mornings.

22

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fun fermentions!

« on: January 31, 2013, 01:03:17 PM »

What yeast strain is that?

23

Equipment and Software / Re: All things jockey box

« on: January 29, 2013, 12:03:15 PM »

I have a 2 pass cold plate that works pretty well. It is 25 ft of 1/4 in tubing. I have found a sweet spot at around 18psi. Also, it works MUCH better if the beer is at least cool in the keg. It is hard for me to pour a warm keg of beer through the plate without some foaming.

I have to disagree a little bit about the water/ice ratio. I think it works best if the plate is surrounding by a little bit of water, with lots of ice all around. If you drain out the water, then you are losing some contact area with just the chunks of ice in there. It probably doesn't make much difference in the end.

By the way, instead of buying a newly assembled jockey box, you can easily convert a cooler into one of your own for much cheaper if you can find a used cold plate on ebay. If you can make a kegerator, then you can make a jockey box.

24

Beer Recipes / Re: Hop Liquor

« on: January 29, 2013, 11:25:39 AM »

I think you will be getting some diminishing returns on the hops, but if you are hellbent on 40 oz it seems like you have set it up pretty well. I would take some hops out of the 60 minute though, and I would add a LOT more of the hops in the mash. That way you aren't getting quite as much gunk in the kettle.

25

Ingredients / Re: Vitners Harvest Apricot Puree Gravity

« on: January 29, 2013, 11:15:54 AM »

https://www.fruitforbrewing.com/order

It says apricot is 10 brix, so about 1.040 sg.

26

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Whirlpool "Strength"

« on: January 25, 2013, 05:40:19 PM »

I think you are much better off with a short whirlpool and a longer rest. If you are getting things moving around in a circle, that is pretty much all you need. Things don't start to settle down to the bottom until you stop the pump.

27

General Homebrew Discussion / Yeast nutrient

« on: January 24, 2013, 08:52:35 AM »

I have a couple of different jars of yeast nutrient in my brewing supplies drawer, including one called "yeast energizer". I typically will throw in a pinch or so in my starters, but I don't always remember and I can't say I have noticed a difference when I use it.

Do any of you have strong opinions one way or the other about yeast nutrients?

28

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: New boil kettle

« on: January 24, 2013, 08:45:46 AM »

Sound good, thanks for the advice guys. I don't use an immersion chiller, but I think I am going to use a copper diptube in the kettle. Easy to put in, and it can't hurt.

About yeast nutrient...well maybe I will start a new thread.

29

Equipment and Software / Re: Warming Fermenters a Few Degrees

« on: January 23, 2013, 03:59:42 PM »

I put a heating pad near the fermentor and cover the whole thing with a blanket. I tape a meat thermometer with a long wired probe to the other side of the fermentor and insulate it so I can occasionally monitor the temperature.

Something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Sunbeam-756-500-Heating-Pad-UltraHeatTechnology/dp/B00006IV4N/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1358981761&sr=8-3&keywords=heating+pad

and this:

 http://www.amazon.com/CDN-Digital-Programmable-Probe-Thermometer/dp/B00046YFHE/ref=sr_1_5?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1358981898&sr=1-5&keywords=meat+thermometer


Cheap and easy solution.

30

General Homebrew Discussion / New boil kettle

« on: January 23, 2013, 03:41:53 PM »

I am making a new boil kettle for my brewery, and I was wondering what people's opinions are about including copper at some point in the brewing process. I have heard that it is important for yeast health to have some copper leach in to the wort, but I am not sure about how this happens. Can it happen in the mash tun, or does it have to be in the kettle?