Here's some info from George Fix...http://hbd.org/clubs/cascade/public_html/brewing/index.html
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Sorry, for some reason I was thinking this was the new version of the B&V. I couldn't remember the name of that forum for the life of me. Now that I have it figured out, I found the B&V as well.
In any event, I'm happy to be on board here.
Is it generally true that craft breweries are selling everything they brew, and that they are brewing at or near current capacity?
After my D-rest last week I dropped the temp to 38F to lager. Then happened to notice in HTB that S-23 should never go below 45F...
I'm wondering if this minimum temp setpoint matters after the attenuative phase? To be safe I raised the temp to 46.
This was my favorite forum 10yrs ago, nice to see things haven't changed much
I think the key here is that they're talking about bringing the beer down to lagering temps while the yeast is still actively fermenting. I think those of us that are in the cold crash camp are waiting until the yeast is finished before cold crashing. I don't know if all of his points hold true once the yeast is finished and you're just trying to get it to drop bright.
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Now I'm not so sure a rapid cold crash is a good idea although I have never noticed off flavors from doing a cold crash and my re-pitched lager yeast seems to ferment the next batch without issue.
Fixed thatI always use o2 scavenging caps. I spray a handful of caps at a time with vodka from a squirt bottle. (A trick I learned while working at a winery). The o2 absorbing agent is moisture activated so you only want to sanitize the ones you will use.
Vodka as a sanitizer won't work as well
for beer as it does for wine. Wine has more alcohol and a lower pH which makes it more resistant to infection than beer is.
And it's more expensive too. I can see using it in a pinch, but given the price and effectiveness I use starsan.