« on: May 22, 2013, 04:38:59 PM »
I observed a color change in a beer I racked onto darker beer yeast cake. It can happen.
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I have read some dissolved oxygen info. Haven't bought into the idea for homebrew level yet. One side by side study I saw had three one gallon bottles of identical wort and yeast. One was not aerated at all, one was shook for two minutes, one was oxygenated for two minutes. All three made beer. The non aeration was slow and obviously under attenuated. The shook one started faster than the O2 one but the shook and O2 samples finished about the same.
I don't shake, I pour back and forth between buckets until the froth reaches the brim. Takes about three pours, less than a minute. There may be some science that proves O2 is better, but my low tech method works plenty good for me. Plus one less expense and piece of equipment to clean.
I realized that the default alkalinity and water profile loaded in brunwater may not match what my RO water profile really is (i have sent off a sample to confirm my hypotheses), and was therefore ending up more acidic than i wanted in my mash.
One great trick to remove sulfur from beer is to run the beer through a line of copper. You can even take a copper pipe and stir the carboy/bucket/keg.
I heard on BrewStrong that if added post-fermentation, copper can be a catalyst in oxidation reactions.
Any suggestions on how long to boil to precipitate some of that bicarbonate out? I do use phosphoric however It never changes my PH in my HLT with my water profile. I assume that there is just to much bicarbonate and it is buffering the acid to much.