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Messages - mabrungard

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16
All Grain Brewing / Re: Whirlpooling
« on: April 22, 2013, 07:08:34 PM »
The kettle height to diameter is important.  I use a turkey fryer kettle and I cannot get any kind of a cone to form.

Definitely!  A large diameter and modest height is the way to keep the cone confined to the center and allow you to draw the wort from the periphery.  The typical 15 gal keg is exactly what you don't want your kettle shape to be.  Fortunately for the keg users, the dished center of the keg is a good repository for trub.  Notice that all the kettles in large commercial breweries are relatively broad and not too deep.  A large diameter stock pot that has much larger capacity than you actually brew, is a good idea.  I use a 15 gal stock pot to brew 5 gal batches.

17
All Grain Brewing / Re: Next Step-Water
« on: April 22, 2013, 07:01:52 PM »
Somewhere in the 100 to 350 ppm sulfate range is probably OK.  As many brewers reading these forums know, I recently brewed my house SNPA clone with a reduced sulfate level of 100 ppm from my normal 300 ppm.  All I did was reduce the gypsum addition and kept all other mineral additions at my normal levels (Pale Ale profile in Bru'n Water). 

It is a fine beer with no apparent brewing or fermentation faults (saying this just so you know its not F'd Up), but the finish is a little fuller and 'wetter' than I'm used to. The reduced sulfate level keeps the beer from drying out like it typically does.  An unscientific dose of gypsum in the glass restored the drying finish.  But the bottom line is that sulfate is an important tool for assisting in creating an appropriately dry finish.  One thing I notice about great commercial beers is that they all have an appropriate level of dryness in the finish.  A beer that leaves the palate too wet or malty is not going to encourage that drinker to buy the second and third glasses. 

18
All Grain Brewing / Re: Ph questions for a Kolsch
« on: April 21, 2013, 09:25:50 AM »
It sounds like your water has some alkalinity and needed the acid.  Was the 5.5 pH in the mash?  I recommend a little lower pH than that to help make the beer a little more crisp and tart.

19
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Bru'n Water help
« on: April 21, 2013, 09:23:39 AM »
When adding salts to the sparge, do you add them to the hot liquor tank or the mash tun?

I prefer adding the sparging minerals to the HLT so that they are added in proportion to the water amount.  This also helps me assure that they are dissolved.  Gypsum typically takes a few minutes of stirring to get it all into solution.  The other minerals are quite soluble.

20
Ingredients / Re: black hoppy ale hops
« on: April 20, 2013, 06:26:59 AM »
I suggest that Northern Brewer is an excellent hop in darker beers due to its 'woody' notes.  I've used NB in my American Brown ale for years as a compliment to the Cascade notes. 

I hear that Brewers Gold is excellent in darker ales and it has some similarity to NB.  I have a pound of BG in the freezer, but haven't had the chance to test (taste) it yet.  That is next on the list.

21
All Grain Brewing / Re: Next Step-Water
« on: April 20, 2013, 05:02:04 AM »
There is sort of an anti-sulfate crusade that has been promulgated by a person that only brews European light lagers. Unfortunately, that sentiment has 'bled' into the psyches of other brewers and their quest for great beer.  I can assure you that many styles benefit from varying levels of sulfate in the brewing water. Lately, the lore has been that sulfate enhances bitterness perception (which it does).  However sulfate is actually helping to dry the beer finish (which enhances bitterness perception) and that can be a valuable tool for the brewer to tune their beers.

Certainly, sulfate should be used in moderation. But it should be viewed as an important tool in perfecting your beers. Using it only in hoppy beers may restrict your brewing abilities. Next time you have a recipe that produces a beer that doesn't dry the finish adequately, think about bumping the sulfate content of the water up a bit. An extra 20 ppm may be all you need.

Don't be afraid of sulfate!

22
The Pub / Re: Reinheitsgebot craziness
« on: April 17, 2013, 06:46:24 PM »
Ah, do remember that the finest beers are from the US and Belgium where brewers aren't limited by arcane and outdated rules.

23
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Bru'n Water help
« on: April 16, 2013, 09:15:33 AM »
Accounting for the dilution is fairly easy.  With your water properly entered on the input sheet, go to the Water Adjustment sheet and dial in 50 % dilution with RO.  That will report what the new alkalinity of that Diluted Water Profile is.  Enter that alkalinity on the Sparge Acidification sheet and you are ready to go. 

Its easier than that on the supporters version of Bru'n Water.  The sparge acidification sheet has a dilution calculator built into it and the alkalinity of the tap water from the input sheet is automatically brought over.

24
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Bru'n Water help
« on: April 16, 2013, 06:49:44 AM »
The RA shown for a water profile is a 'first guess' as to what your water MIGHT need for producing a decent mash pH.  There is no 'ideal' RA that you are aiming for.  The only thing that matters is the resulting mash pH.  Given your very alkaline tap water, the acidification is not surprising.  The other thing that you are doing is adding a dose of calcium chloride that is adding hardness and further depressing the RA.  It doesn't appear that that much CaCl is needed, but its your choice. 

As Narvin mentions, allowing a slightly higher target mash pH is another option.  That bump to 5.5 can help extract a little more color and fullness from the roast components.  I like the slightly high mash pH for my darker beers since I feel it softens the flavors.

25
Ingredients / Re: Getting started with Bru'n Water
« on: April 16, 2013, 06:39:10 AM »
Looks as good as its going to get.  Hetch Hetchy water is nice.  The balance of cations and anions is quite close.  Given that these are averages, its nice that they're as close as they are. 

26
Going Pro / Re: Arsenic in beer caused by filtration
« on: April 15, 2013, 05:21:57 AM »
The only difference between poison and medicine is dose.

27
I recently had a question from a Bru'n Water user that has the fortune of brewing with tap water of near Pilsen quality.  He was trying to create a better Pale Ale since his prior attempts lacked 'zing'.  So, he was trying to match the calcium content of the Pale Ale profile in Bru'n Water (140ppm).  He did not realize that for calcium, anything over 50 ppm is good enough.  The only reason that the calcium content on the Pale Ale profile is high is because you have to add a lot of gypsum to deliver the high sulfate that you want. 

If you try and take the Ca to 140 ppm in water with very low alkalinity, the mash pH is likely to be far lower than desirable.  I just did a quick test in Bru'n Water using distilled water as the starting water.  I added epsom salt until the Mg was high enough, then added gypsum until the sulfate was high enough.  Then I added table salt until the sodium was high enough, then added CaCl until the chloride was high enough.  That left me with all the ions excepting calcium near their targets (Ca was at 115 ppm).  That produced a 5.3 pH with a 90% Pale malt and 10% crystal 40 grist.  Its a little low but not terribly so.  If I wanted, I could cut back on the table salt and add baking soda to produce the intended Na content to produce a 5.4 pH.  Either is workable. 

Another option for avoiding an excessively low mash pH is to reserve the Ca and Mg containing minerals from the mash and adding them directly to the kettle.  That avoids the low pH issue in the mash.  As many of you probably know, those hardness minerals combine with phosphate compounds in the mash to reduce pH.  But since those phosphate compounds are also transferred over into the kettle, I figured that this pH lowering effect would still occur in the kettle.  But I was not positive of this, so I posed the question of what the effect of adding those minerals directly to the kettle was to my partners for the upcoming Water book: Palmer, Kaminski, and Delange.  They confirmed that the effect would occur in the kettle. 

You may now be asking...so what if the pH in the kettle is driven lower?  Well, a lower than desirable kettle pH also affects several factors in the beer.  The number one factor is that low pH reduces the production of hop bitterness and hop expression.  The more ideal wort pH of 5.2 to 5.6 helps extract the hop alpha acids and other components from the hop matter.  The rest of the factors are not a big deal, but the hop thing is.  So getting the wort pH right is a good thing.  Therefore, maybe the technique of reserving the hardness minerals from the mash is not ideal.  Getting the pH correct in the mash with all the minerals is probably a more ideal way to go.

Enjoy!

28
Ingredients / Re: Bru'n Water version 1.14 posted
« on: April 13, 2013, 11:21:00 AM »
At present, donating via Paypal is the only way to become a supporter.  A customized file is emailed to each supporter.  There is no download site for the supporter's version.

29
Ingredients / Bru'n Water version 1.14 posted
« on: April 12, 2013, 02:49:00 PM »
The latest update to the free version of Bru'n Water is now available on the Bru'n Water website.  The main thing that was changed was an update for Acid Malt acidity so that it more accurately reflects its contribution.  The mash pH prediction capability has also been improved.

The free version lacks many of the features of the supporter's version, but its still effective.

Enjoy!

30
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: PH adjustments
« on: April 10, 2013, 08:48:58 AM »
Yes, adding the acid to the water along with the salts is fine.  Sure, the pH of that water might be lower than you expect (in comparison to a mash pH), but it all works out once the grain is added for the mash.

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