136
Beer Recipes / Re: Baltic Porter Recipe Critique
« on: December 18, 2012, 10:41:34 pm »
I'm about to brew a Baltic Porter recipe straight from Zymergy Sept./Oct.. I recommend the article.
Steve
Steve
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137
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Cold Steeping Dark Grains
« on: December 18, 2012, 12:39:09 pm »
I too am very interested in this, and looking forward to the results of the experiments.
Steve
Steve
138
Equipment and Software / Re: Rolling boil gathers no moss...?
« on: December 16, 2012, 01:31:13 pm »Is DMS an issue with extract?
Don't think so.
As much as I hesitate to contradict someone with so much more experience than I... I think it is an issue. It is created wherever heat is applied in each step: mash and boil.
Steve
139
Equipment and Software / Re: Rolling boil gathers no moss...?
« on: December 16, 2012, 06:27:37 am »
There needs to be some action, some turn-over of the wort during boil. Much more is not necessary. Some of it is kinetics: hot break, where proteins run into each other and stick, and moving around helps get rid of DMS.
Steve
Steve
140
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Noob question #29
« on: December 15, 2012, 09:54:32 pm »Ah the questions are endless it seems... and I read the Yeast book!
Anyway, if I make a 1.5 liter starter wort and pitch a smack pack into it, will it result in a higher yeast count than if I make a 1 liter starter wort and pitch the same smack pack into it?
Steve
Yes it will. If you're not using a pitching rate/starter size calculator like the one on Mr Malty, YeastCalc, or Brewer's Friend, I highly recommend it - especially if you're brewing a lager.
I'm not sure what you're planning for the batch size/gravity of the lager you're brewing, but for a 5-gallon batch of an average gravity lager you're probably looking at a starter size in the 2-3 liter range to get up to the pitching rates you want.
See?! Another question! But first, yes I am using the calculator in Beersmith. When one references a '2-3 liter starter', I assume it means the whole starter not 2-3 liters of yeast cake after one decants the starter beer off the top, right?
Steve
141
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Noob question #29
« on: December 15, 2012, 09:19:03 pm »
Ah the questions are endless it seems... and I read the Yeast book!
Anyway, if I make a 1.5 liter starter wort and pitch a smack pack into it, will it result in a higher yeast count than if I make a 1 liter starter wort and pitch the same smack pack into it?
Steve
Anyway, if I make a 1.5 liter starter wort and pitch a smack pack into it, will it result in a higher yeast count than if I make a 1 liter starter wort and pitch the same smack pack into it?
Steve
142
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Anybody ever heard of Summit Kegerators?
« on: December 15, 2012, 05:39:32 pm »I just need the single anyway. I cant find any reviews on this item. Would you say Danby is a good brand? I dont mind spending money but I hate spending it and being disappointed with what I bought.
Well I have a Danby and a Vissani. The Danby is the better of the two. That seems like a pretty decent price, and a lot of people have used them for years. I like mine and would probably purchase another if this one gave up the ghost.
The temperature controller mentioned is the stock one and is not good. But you may have a different opinion. Regardless of which one you go with, I do recommend using it for a bit without modification - you may get lucky and it will work fine for you. Just be forewarned that with all these entry-level kegerators, most people get a Johnson or an ETC, or one of the really cheap ones on ebay - they are still way better than the internal one is.
Steve
143
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Anybody ever heard of Summit Kegerators?
« on: December 15, 2012, 04:06:05 pm »Are they any good? Would one be worth $200 more than a magic chef? Is the beverage factory a repudable dealer?
Yes, the Beverage Factory is a reputable dealer. I have had several transactions with them and they have always been good.
Yes, though I don't own one, I have heard they are OK. I don't think they are metric, so that is good. You will still want an external temperature controller.
FWIW, I also installed a tower blower so that the beer in the lines in the tower don't warm up as much resulting in a 1st glass of foam. I also got a cheap fishing temperature gauge, the sensor from it is sitting in a beer can filled with distilled water inside the kegerator. The reason for that is liquid temperature is what you are concerned with, not air temperature. But the most important item is the temp. controller.
If you think you'll want a double faucet in the future then the Magic Chef becomes more attractive because you'll replace the whole tower so the metric part doesn't matter then.
In your shopping also look for a Danby. They are probably the most common kegerator out there. They have the same issues with needing an external controller though. And they are more difficult to install the controller... but they can be had for less than the Summit.
Steve
144
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Anybody ever heard of Summit Kegerators?
« on: December 15, 2012, 02:25:24 pm »145
Yeast and Fermentation / Noob question #29
« on: December 15, 2012, 12:17:46 pm »
I'm going to make a starter today. I have done ale starters at room temperature (70*), but since this will be a lager I'm wondering if I should ferment the starter in a cooler environment. Obviously I'm not worried about the 'beer' quality, but yeast health. Is 70* OK for a lager starter?
Steve
Steve
146
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: yeast starter
« on: December 13, 2012, 04:19:27 pm »
So check my thinking...
I am going to brew five gallons of Baltic Porter with an OG of 1.065 using Wyeast's 2124 lager yeast.
My limitations are that I have one stir plate and two, 2 liter flasks.
For my previous ales I have made a 1 liter starter wort to which I add the yeast packet. My thinking is to start the same with a 1 liter wort, leave it on the stir plate for 3 days, in the fridge for 2 then decant. Then make a 1.5 liter wort and combine that with the 1st starter (I'm assuming this will get me close to 2 liters total which makes me a bit nervous). Then let the second step for for 3 days, 2 days in the fridge, decant and pitch into the oxygenated Baltic Porter wort. At each step and in the boil kettle I will use the appropriate amount of yeast nutrient.
Obviously this would be a lot better/easier if I had a second stir plate or a bigger flask, but is there an easier or better way?
Steve
I am going to brew five gallons of Baltic Porter with an OG of 1.065 using Wyeast's 2124 lager yeast.
My limitations are that I have one stir plate and two, 2 liter flasks.
For my previous ales I have made a 1 liter starter wort to which I add the yeast packet. My thinking is to start the same with a 1 liter wort, leave it on the stir plate for 3 days, in the fridge for 2 then decant. Then make a 1.5 liter wort and combine that with the 1st starter (I'm assuming this will get me close to 2 liters total which makes me a bit nervous). Then let the second step for for 3 days, 2 days in the fridge, decant and pitch into the oxygenated Baltic Porter wort. At each step and in the boil kettle I will use the appropriate amount of yeast nutrient.
Obviously this would be a lot better/easier if I had a second stir plate or a bigger flask, but is there an easier or better way?
Steve
147
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Keg Virgin Questions
« on: December 13, 2012, 09:02:30 am »Mine will be in my basement where the temperature is a constant 68 degrees year round. I wonder if that will make it stay cool easier. Does yours run 100% of the time to stay at 40 degrees?
No it doesn't run all the time. I just checked it out in the 50* garage and it was down to 38* after all night set on 33*. So the only thing it is not good for is cold conditioning--though 38* is getting pretty close.
This may be just this unit. It also may be related to how easy it is to connect a contoller to it. With this one I just set the thermostat in the kegerator to the coldest setting, and plug the kegerator into the controller. With the contoller sensor inside the unit, the contoller turns the unit on or off. On the Danby I had to wire directly to the compressor--it will get below freezing.
Honestly for $50 I'd go the fridge route; you'll spend that much on a temperature controller. But either way, *I* don't think I'd buy a Magic Chef kegerator.
Steve
148
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Keg Virgin Questions
« on: December 12, 2012, 09:00:07 pm »
No the one you linked to is a Magic Chef, which is made by and also sold under the name Vissani. I have one. I use it for my fermentation chamber. There are a couple of issues with it.
1. it is smaller than the Danby, but not by much. You will not be able to fit three cornys in it, but two will.
2. It has a metric faucet. You will not be able to swap or replace the faucet with one that you buy at the LHBS. I replaced the whole tower on mine for that reason.
3. I have found that it does not cool as well as the Danby. I had an analog Johnson temperature contoller on it and it would only get down to 40*, which is OK for serving ales or fermenting beer. I have not tried to see if the ATC controller I have on it now will get it any lower. I think I'll go try since I have nothing in it at the moment.
4. On the good side, it is MUCH easier to connect a controller to it than the Danby. Which IMO is necessary unless you spend a lot more money on a kegerator. All the entry level ones are really bad on temperature accuracy and massive swings.
If I were you, I'd watch Craigslist and pick one up second hand, then they are worth the extra work and investing in things to make them work well.
Steve
1. it is smaller than the Danby, but not by much. You will not be able to fit three cornys in it, but two will.
2. It has a metric faucet. You will not be able to swap or replace the faucet with one that you buy at the LHBS. I replaced the whole tower on mine for that reason.
3. I have found that it does not cool as well as the Danby. I had an analog Johnson temperature contoller on it and it would only get down to 40*, which is OK for serving ales or fermenting beer. I have not tried to see if the ATC controller I have on it now will get it any lower. I think I'll go try since I have nothing in it at the moment.
4. On the good side, it is MUCH easier to connect a controller to it than the Danby. Which IMO is necessary unless you spend a lot more money on a kegerator. All the entry level ones are really bad on temperature accuracy and massive swings.
If I were you, I'd watch Craigslist and pick one up second hand, then they are worth the extra work and investing in things to make them work well.
Steve
149
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Keg Virgin Questions
« on: December 12, 2012, 01:10:09 pm »
An important question is which kegerator did you buy? If it is one of the common inexpensive ones (Danby, etc.). There are issues specific to them. A great place to do some learning is here: http://www.micromatic.com/forum/us-en/kegerators-kegerator-kits-home/
There are several issues that new kegerator owners have, but once they are set up, they are the way to go. If you have specific questions, ask away. I say that so I don't clog the thread with a dissertation. My kids tell me I'm the kind of guy that if you ask me what time it is I'll tell you how to build a watch.
Steve
There are several issues that new kegerator owners have, but once they are set up, they are the way to go. If you have specific questions, ask away. I say that so I don't clog the thread with a dissertation. My kids tell me I'm the kind of guy that if you ask me what time it is I'll tell you how to build a watch.
Steve
150
Pimp My System / Re: Blatzhaus Electric Brauerei
« on: December 12, 2012, 09:04:56 am »
Wow, great looking setup!