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Equipment and Software / Re: Those little red cans of Oxygen
« on: Today at 01:16:26 pm »
As the old back gets in the way at times, the O2 is the low impact solution.
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2
Equipment and Software / Re: New MT ordered
« on: Today at 10:46:10 am »
These are in many brewing museums in Europe.
You might need some more room.
You might need some more room.
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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: My Water Report
« on: Today at 10:30:03 am »
The HCO3 jumped out to me.
The higher Ca means he does not need to add, abraded as much, so that s good.
The higher Ca means he does not need to add, abraded as much, so that s good.
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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: My Water Report
« on: Today at 07:17:42 am »Yes, use the Pale Ale profile and brew away. You will probably want to get your sulfate up so the hops will pop. Looks like Pilsen water!It looks good, but not Pilsen good.
Dave
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Equipment and Software / Re: New MT ordered
« on: Today at 05:19:02 am »Just to be an OCD engineer, a plate chiller is a type of counter flow chiller, at least the ones I know. The plates can give high area in a small package.http://morebeer.com/products/wort-chiller-superchiller-recirculation.htmlyeav ive also ready about some of the issues with plate chillers holding hop gunk in them, thats why i bought a stainless steel hopspider from stainlessbrewing to put my hops in while boiling. when the boils over i can just pull all of it out and nothings going in my plate chiller:) also in regards to said cleaning issues, since the wart will be boiled when it first hits the plate chiller, anything in it will be eradicated:)
http://www.mrmalty.com/chiller.php
like I said, don't know if it's any better, but it's the tool I wanted to try. I also have read a good bit about plate chillers and cleaning issues. anyway, just the direction I went.
cheers
the boiling wort sanitization only works if you recirc for a bit with no water running. Remember if your plate chiller is working the wort should be below 'safe' temps by the time it's 10% of the way through the chiller.
I don't think that plate chillers are inherently better than IC's on the home scale. Pro scale I think plate becomes the only choice just because it's impractical to have a IC that big.
The advantages to IC include dropping the temp of the entire mass of wort quicker thus reducing isomerization and volatilization of flame out hops.
the third type is counter flow by the way.
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Equipment and Software / Re: Those little red cans of Oxygen
« on: Today at 05:12:46 am »
For some small beers that I want more esters in, I just pump into the fermenter. Medium gravity, the mix stir, high gravity and lagers get the O2.
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Beer Recipes / Re: Amarillo IPA
« on: Today at 05:10:18 am »
I'm with Dave on this, just brew it! We have done several all Amarillo beers and like the results.
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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: My Water Report
« on: May 19, 2013, 09:22:38 am »
Not from the Midwest are you? That does look good for brewing, as Martin says.
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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: timing a lager D-rest
« on: May 17, 2013, 01:17:43 pm »If you do it at 80%, the yeast will finish the sugars and be active to reduce the VDKs. The increased activity will help scrub off sulfur. Then you can crash down to cold temps to lager and drop out the haze and yeast. The classic profile has a slow cooling to keep the yeast working, as they will slowly reduce the VDKs at low temperature.good info from everyone. seems like we are all on the same page. it just seemed odd to me to hear people do a d-rest after 2 weeks at 50F...seems all activity would be done and there would be nothing gained from doing a d-rest then (considering a normal lager range around 1.050-055). maybe for bigger beers over 1.060 there would still be fermentation activity near the 2 week mark - i just haven't done a lager that big.
As long as you don't remove the yeast from the beer, it doesn't matter if all activity has ended. Warming the beer for the d rest will make it active again.
ok good to know. but then whats the difference in doing a d-rest at 80-85% attenuation , vs. 99-100% attenuation ? any benefit of one over the other
So you clean it up, blow off sulfur and save time. If you are a homebrewer that brews lagers when the weather allows, saving time in the fermenter is a good thing. Might have to get another freezer someday so I can do lagers in the summer.
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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: timing a lager D-rest
« on: May 17, 2013, 12:10:47 pm »
The yeast should run the brewery, not the calendar. I take samples off of the raking arm in the conical. When the beer has about 2 Plato to go, it gets ramped up in the D-rest. This is in the 4-6 day range for a 1.050 lager. 2 days at higher temp and it is done. Taste it to be sure.
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Beer Recipes / Re: Hopslam Clone?
« on: May 17, 2013, 12:05:55 pm »http://www.bjcp.org/docs/2008_stylebook.pdfGood show on the win.
Category 14 covers all of the Pale Ales
14A - English IPA
14B - American IPA
14C - Imperial IPA
I entered in the 14C category. I think they grouped the winners from each subcategory to come up with an overall category winner.
When you say Pale Ale most think of the English or American Pale Ales. Think Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, Stone Pale Ale, and so on.
Cat 14 is India Pale Ales.
Cat 10a is American Pale Ales.
Cat 8 is English Pale Ales.
Just saying.
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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Most and Least
« on: May 17, 2013, 10:28:47 am »
One of the most important things is the mop and bucket.
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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Cowboy Brewers
« on: May 17, 2013, 06:12:54 am »
I wonder if Gary knew there would be a low signal to noise ratio on this thread?
It has been funny.
It has been funny.
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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: When did you switch to all grain?
« on: May 15, 2013, 11:42:39 am »yes, I remember that. "I haven't/just brewed this and I know it is going to be really good."Started in '91 and was taught by one of my cousins, who had been brewing for a while, all grain. So I started with all grain. Speaking of pre-internet, who remembers "The Cat's Meow"? I still have copy on one of my brew book shelves.Wow, there's a flashback!
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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: When did you switch to all grain?
« on: May 15, 2013, 09:08:02 am »
Started in 92, went all grain after about 30 batches, so 94. That was back when all grain was considered to require lots of skill and knowledge (pre-internet). After doing it the first time, I said "that is all there is to it?".