This is a Ward report for softened well water; the location is about 15 miles south of San Francisco, in a hilly section about a half-mile from the ocean.Your sodium is high, greater than 150 ppm. Very low Ca And Mg, so the softener works.
pH 7.6 TDS Est ppm 538 Electrical Conductivity, mmho/cm 0.90 Cations / Anions, me/L 8.2 / 8.2 Sodium, Na 186 Potassium, K < 1 Calcium, Ca < 1 Magnesium, Mg < 1 Total Hardness, CaCO3 7 Nitrate, NO3-N 5.8 (SAFE) Sulfate, SO4-S 10 Chloride, Cl 199 Carbonate, CO3 < 1 Bicarbonate, HCO3 92 Total Alkalinity, CaCO3 75 Total Phosphorus, P 0.04 Total Iron, Fe < 0.01
From taste, most of the Sodium and Chloride is from the softener. I appreciate this thread as it's challenging me to learn water chemistry for brewing but really to get a grasp of the house well water as well (for things like skin care - need to drop the Ph).
Brew-wise, my darker beers taste great, my IPA hop aroma fades within 2 months, and I've never had a crisp snappy taste on anything like a Pilsner. The one local pro brewer who has similar water is diluting half with RO and adding gypsum, advising to read up and use Bru'n Water. The numbers make sense when using Martin's spreadsheet, it's nicely done.
What's your process for measuring mash Ph and adjusting? Do you measure when the grist is added and/or adjust over time?
Decarbonating by boiling: any advice on how long or how hot to heat the water? My water heater puts out quite a bit of what looks like baking soda when I clean it, so I'm wondering if it makes sense to start decarbonating using the heated water as a source.
This might work for extract batches, but you are adding the minerals to the minerals in the extract.
Most say not to use the water from the heater.