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Messages - jeffy

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1861
All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash efficiency
« on: October 19, 2010, 05:12:04 AM »
I think you're missing the most obvious solution.  Why are you sticking your volume measuring device into the wort?  Why not measure from a fixed point on the top of the tun?  You still calibrate it the same way, but you don't have to immerse anything.
That's thinking outside the box, err kettle.  I like it.

1862
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Using Wort for Starter
« on: October 18, 2010, 03:42:53 PM »
OK, thanks, Tom.  I wasn't quite dead yet.

1863
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Using Wort for Starter
« on: October 18, 2010, 02:16:40 PM »
If the wort came straight from the boil, was chilled and then frozen there would be no more botulinum toxin in it than if it was chilled and used right away.  It's not like the C. boutlinum (assuming they're even present) are going to be growing and creating toxin at 0F, which is where most freezers are set.  If you want to store it at room temp then yeah, use a pressure cooker.  But if you're freezing it I don't see the need.
Whew!  These guys were beginning to worry me!

1864
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Using Wort for Starter
« on: October 17, 2010, 11:06:50 AM »
Well, you're supposed to boil it again.
I think that depends entirely on your level of bravery.  If the wort was boiled and then put into a sanitized bottle or jar, then refrigerated, don't you think you could add it right to your yeast when you need to make a starter?
I saved some almost boiling hot low-gravity wort in sanitized 12 ounce bottles which I capped and refrigerated.  It makes for an easy, no boil starter.

1865
A few days ago I look at the data sheet for Great Western wheat malt an the DP was 180. I think Briess is 160. Wheat can easily convert 75% adjunct...but then crystal is already converted anyway.  ::)

Sorry for a stupid question, but can you explain what this means please  ???
This information is about enzymes and how they would convert the starch in adjuncts to sugar.  It's probably not necessary for a new extract brewer.
Take the original recipe and reduce the whole thing from 6 finished gallons to 5 to fit your gear.  This is just a simple percentage for both the grain and the hops. 5/6 = 83%  Buy an appropriate amount of light malt extract for the main part of the malt bill (the 2 row pale malt).  It's been a while since I've made an extract beer, but this should make up most of the original gravity, which ought to be about 1.065.  I'm thinking about 9 pounds of extract would do it.  Steep the crushed wheat, munich and crystal at about 150-155 degrees for 30 minutes or so in the water you are going to be boiling the batch.  Remove the grains, add the extract and bring it to a boil.
Follow the hop schedule, but use about 80% of their recipe.
I hope I haven't oversimplified it.  I'm sure if you hit the approximate gravity and have the appropriate hops it'll turn out similar to the IPA you want.

1866
Of course, I could also rack batch #1 to a five gallon carboy and then transfer the sleeping wort of #6 directly onto the yeast cake.  It's the same recipe and the same numbers... Is this a relatively safe option?  I'd intended to avoid racking these as I keep hearing and reading that racking is the new new in all things evil, but I'd do it if it seems the safe smart option.  Now - for the laugh...


And if the "add image" doesn't work for whatever reason, a photo of my dry rub/hop effort can be found here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/xoot/5086473209/

I often transfer to a secondary (or keg) on the next brew day and then put the fresh wort right onto the slurry in the old primary.  So if you don't top crop like the other link, you can easily put batch 6 directly onto the yeast under batch 1.

I love that dry rub photo.  You need to find a better funnel or something.

1867
I was thinking that by day three you should have had plenty of yeast available from the first batch.  Even more by day 6.  You certainly spent a lot on yeast when you had big starters already going in the earlier fermenters.  Have you ever given any thought to harvesting the yeast from previous batches?

1868
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermentation timeline of BVIP (HPLC data)
« on: October 16, 2010, 08:58:12 AM »
This information would be a lot more useful to me if I knew what BVIP and HPLC stood for.  Google doesn't find acronyms for BVIP that come close to brewing.  The V is perhaps vanilla?  I would think that HPLC is High Performance Liquid Chromatography?

1869
Equipment and Software / Re: Building a Jockey Box
« on: October 14, 2010, 03:25:43 PM »
I'd rather let them deal with the locusts who come to our door.  Local news has come by the last few years due to the crowds we get.

You'd be amazed at how much candy you can go through in two hours.  And they keep coming...

Once we're out of candy, we need to kill all the lights and go hide in the back yard or the bell will ring until past 9pm.
Hmmmmm.  It sounds like you may be giving away trick-or-treat beer with all those crowds and reporters.  Last year our house had ZERO trick-or-treaters.  I guess all the families are going to a better neighborhood.  We had to eat all the candy ouselves.  Fortunately I picked Reece's Peanut Butter Cups.
(Sorry I don't know much about Jockey Boxes)

1870
Equipment and Software / Re: CFC to Whirlpool question
« on: October 14, 2010, 12:55:05 PM »
And now to hijack the thread as well: my whirlpool lacks much whirlpool foo.
I think you should stir it really hard at flameout, and then start chilling.  It will help the whirlpool form, and even if it slows down it will help form a cone of particles in the center of the kettle.  It should help.
I do this, too.  A real good stir a few minutes after flameout and before whirlpooling keeps the stuff from clogging up the pump and chiller.

1871
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: A Little Home Brew Survey
« on: October 14, 2010, 05:20:16 AM »


1) What is your age range?
   d. 56+

2) What area do you reside in?
  b. South

3). What do you do for a living?
Independent auto shop owner

4). How many children do you have?
    a. 0

5). How long have you been home brewing
    d. 7+ years (closer to 20 years)

6). How much money do you spend on home brewing a year?
    a. >$1000 (what about <$1000?)

7). How often do you participate in Home Brewing?
    c. Bi-Weekly (brew about 12 times a year on average, spend time kegging, cleaning, bottling during off weeks)

8) Why did you begin home brewing?
Brewed a kit a friend gave me from London.  After that I wanted to make beer that wasn't available in my local stores.  We had strange laws in Florida that prevented getting any beer that wasn't in a twelve ounce bottle.

9) Do you have any home brewing goals?
Make good, consistent beer, win some awards, esp NHC

10).  How many hours per day do you spend online?
    b. 1-2

11) What are the top 10 websites that you visit each day?
This one, my bank, probrewer, tbbeers, flbrewer, NPR

12) What forms of social media (ex: facebook, twitter, blogging) do you use the most to connect with home brewers and learn about home brewing itself?
none of the above.  I read actual books to learn about brewing.

Thanks again!



1872
Equipment and Software / Re: What can I do with a keg...
« on: October 14, 2010, 04:19:05 AM »
You can pickle cabbage in it. Make pickles, store umbrellas, use it as a fermenter, make a chair or end table out of it, flower pot, if you're really handy you can turn it into a cool urinal. There's so many things...

You would make a great inventor.  ;D
I was thinking he would make a great junk artist.  ;D
That stainless urinal idea is pretty cool, especially if it's a BMC keg.  Not only would it look unique, but it would have plenty of symbolism........

1873
Equipment and Software / Re: CFC to Whirlpool question
« on: October 14, 2010, 04:09:27 AM »
Sorry to hijack the thread, but could someone explain to me why one might whirlpool? I've seen references to it a lot lately and am unsure of exactly what it contributes to the brewing process - is it for late hops additions?
The main reason is to pool all the trub material into a cone-shaped pile in the center of the kettle, away from the outlet spigot so you can drain wort without a lot of hop and break material.
Some pro brewers use it as a time to add hop flavor and aroma as a very late addition.

1874
The Pub / Re: Congrats tschmidlin!
« on: October 13, 2010, 10:55:32 AM »
Yeah, cool!  Tom's on the front page of the AHA website.
I had no idea he was a Wynkoop Beer Drinker of the Year.

1875
Beer Recipes / Re: 30 Year Beer Recipe
« on: October 12, 2010, 02:11:02 PM »
How many free (second and third runnings) beers did you get?  It would be a shame to throw away all that potential extract.

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