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Messages - kylekohlmorgen

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16
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Is this homebrew?
« on: June 10, 2013, 01:41:21 pm »
I think brewhouse view is important too. I can taste the mountain in my beer.

Looks like a GREAT bottle label / taphandle!

17
Equipment and Software / Re: Hose material
« on: June 07, 2013, 07:28:57 am »
One problem I have with silicone tubing is its flexibility.  When hot, it may be too flexible for use as a pump

This is my biggest complaint - it can kink / contract near the barb when its on the suction side of the pump. PITA, but since I bought $40 worth of tubing, I'll use it until it needs replaced...

18
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Infection
« on: June 07, 2013, 07:23:26 am »
FWIW, I had a small phenolic infection in my brewery about 8 months ago. I did not chance wasting any more beer and threw out all of my plastic stuff and started again.

...usually cheaper than a 5-gallon extract batch that might otherwise go down the drain.

19
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WLP630
« on: June 07, 2013, 07:18:59 am »
May want to try a sour mash/sour wort instead.

I don't recommend this method cause I can't back it up with successful experience.

This is the summer of the kettle/mash sour for me. After I get it down, maybe I can demystify it a bit for others.

20
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Dry Barrel Aged Barleywine
« on: June 07, 2013, 05:12:05 am »
If you have picked up a wild yeast from the barrel I think that even maltodextrin or lactose will eventually ferment back out.

^ I would assume this is true and that you have some wild yeast in your BW.

I'm not completely convinced, however, because of how fast fermentation took off. You might have just restarted an incomplete fermentation when you racked OR there could have been residual sacch. in the barrel from the first beer.

Initially assume its wild yeast. You can cheat time a bit by "back-sweetening" immediately before serving the beer. Push a few gallons into a spare keg, and add a bit of simple syrup made with maltodextrin or lactose (MD if you want more fullness/body, lactose if you want the beer to taste more sweet). I would start with a small amount and dose to taste.

If you want to determine if the barrel fermentation was sacch or wild yeast, just leave this concoction alone for a few months. If it dries up again, its wild yeast. If not, repeat with the rest of the batch.

(If it were me, and you had wild yeast going on, I would transfer 2.5 gal into a keg, add 2.5 gal fruit puree, and wait a year. Serve for special occasions.)

21
All Things Food / Re: Beer Ice Cream Recipe - Searching...
« on: June 07, 2013, 04:54:00 am »
I always wanted to try drizzling in fresh LME (or concentrated 1st runnings) like caramel. I think some good, fresh Munich LME with some toasted and chopped walnuts would be GREAT. You could even candy some walnuts or almonds with the LME.

Emeril made a Guinness Ice Cream on his show. I would probably substitute a sweeter, less bitter stout or a nice scottish ale. Fruit lambic would be interesting.


http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/emeril-lagasse/guinness-ice-cream-with-dark-chocolate-honey-sauce-recipe/index.html

22
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WLP630
« on: June 06, 2013, 12:08:50 pm »
I never understood the yeast/lacto blend.

Just grow up a lacto starter at 100F, knock out around the same temp, and pitch the lacto starter first. At higher temps and without competing with the yeast, lacto can produce the appropriate acidity in days to weeks rather than months.

After the beer is tart enough, aerate and pitch healthy yeast. Making a starter will help the yeast complete fermentation in an acidic environment.

23
Going Pro / Re: Filled Keg storage
« on: June 06, 2013, 12:00:35 pm »
Temperature speeds up every chemical process (in this case, oxidation, hop aroma degradation, etc). I think Charlie Bamforth says to assume twice the speed for every 10C (~20F). So if you believe your beer's shelf life is 180 days, Charlie's theory would suggest its only 90 or so at room temp.

Logistically, I would think the distributor is much less likely to store beer cold (and recommend cold storage to the retailer) if the brewer doesn't bother with it. The brewer (especially the little guy) may not have too much say in the distributor/retailer's beer treatment methods, but you can set the standard and hope its followed.

24
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Infection
« on: June 06, 2013, 11:47:12 am »
I ferment in a 100-year old basement. Mildew, spiders, and dog hair galore.

Point is - the location of your fermentor is relatively unimportant. The beer should be protected by the fermentor, unless you're constantly opening the lid/stopper OR your fermentor has a leak (bucket/lid seal, carboy stopper, empty airlock).

The most probable is that you're letting bugs in when you sample in the freezer OR your airlock is empty.

The liquid inside the airlock can be sucked inside the fermentor during fermentation, if you burp the lid of a bucket, or if you move the fermentor. Make sure your airlocks are full before and after fermentation and periodically during lagering.

Don't open the lid/stopper all the time! If must sample IN the fridge, wipe down the surrounding area and lid, spray with Star-San, quickly sample and cap, then wipe the Star-San off. Or just pull out the fermentor when sampling.

25
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Infection
« on: June 06, 2013, 08:41:16 am »
Most chest freezers controlled at fermentation temps sweat quite a bit. Mine will mold if I'm not careful.

I would add some Damp Rid containers after scrubbing and thoroughly drying out the freezer.

I think you've got a bigger problem in however the infection is working its way into your fermentors.

Are you using a blow off tube or airlock? Are you making sure the airlock stays full of vodka/sanitizer? Do you take frequent samples in the freezer?

Do you use different fermentors/airlocks/lids/etc. when you ferment in the freezer? I know if I put a bucket with airlock in my freezer on the shelf, it wont fit.

26
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Roselaere Blend repitch
« on: June 06, 2013, 07:45:08 am »
Honestly - unless you need the fermentor, or you carried over a BUNCH of trub from the kettle, just leave it in primary.

Less oxygen exposure, less work, closer to forgetting about it for awhile.

Also, I've noticed that my mixed-ferment beers left in primary usually form a thicker pellicle and in less time. Maybe I'm imagining this trend.

Don't bother with the oak cork.

27
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Belle Saison Dry Yeast
« on: June 06, 2013, 07:35:44 am »
This yeast gave me a good flavor profile but I won't be using it again in the brewery. For me, the flocculation was absolutely terrible. Dosed a couple of times with our normal fining regimen, added additional secondary clarifiers, had it stored at 32F, and no change. Then, as the yeast dropped out, the flavor changed considerably into something much less complex. I would imagine this yeast would work better on a bottle conditioned project.

IME the liquid strains are also powdery. That's perfectly ok though - I find irony in a "farmhouse ale" with brilliant clarity.

28
Classifieds / Looking for NHC Banquet Ticket
« on: June 06, 2013, 05:59:30 am »
Need a Banquet ticket for my wife.

Really don't want to make the decision between going to the banquet without her and... the consequences.

29
Equipment and Software / Re: Therminator
« on: June 06, 2013, 05:56:13 am »
Be sure to set up a connection so that you can back-flush the chiller at high rate after each use.

...IMMEDIATELY after each use. Every time its used.

Do not pass go. Do not collect $200.

30
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Bourbon barrel porter
« on: June 04, 2013, 01:55:59 pm »
Yep, I've got a stack of tupperware with soaking oak: red wine, white wine, mead, port, bourbon, and maybe rum? I'll have to look...

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