Messages

541

Equipment and Software / Re: Using the MW102 thermometer

« on: May 24, 2012, 08:37:08 AM »

This pH meter isn't meant for hot liquids (the manual says 50C, which is 122F).

If you're getting a digital thermometer, wouldnt you want it to read all the way through boiling temps?

542

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: High temperature yeasts

« on: May 24, 2012, 08:29:46 AM »

Someone said "Swamp Cooler Fermentation" so I thought I'd give another option :-)

Not speaking out against it - so many people use it with success, its a great option - just takes some practice to get it right and you're still limited through the hot months.

Just saying - if you're eyeing a new kettle, mash tun, pump, etc. etc. etc., invest it in good temp control (and a beer fridge to boot!) first.

543

Going Pro / Re: Typical brewers salary?

« on: May 24, 2012, 08:16:08 AM »

Minimum wage.

Would take this in a minute, if I could keep my current job...

Damn college loans

544

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Temperature controlled fermentation in a Blichmann conical fermenter...

« on: May 24, 2012, 08:11:55 AM »

Brewhemoth.com fermenters make exactly what you're talking about. Not sure what liquid they use to chill them. Here's the link. Maybe calling them and asking how they use them.

http://brewhemoth.com/immersion-chiller

I never liked the idea of coil-chilling during fermentation. If you're exposing the entire exterior to the elements, fermentation isnt providing enough mixing to keep the temp constant throughout. Especially at 85F outside and lager temps inside.

It would also be a b**** to keep clean and a lot more surface area to harbor bacteria.

MUCH easier to control temp from the outside-in. Thats why the pros do it this way.

545

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: High temperature yeasts

« on: May 24, 2012, 08:03:33 AM »

Hope you like Saisons and Farmhouse ales.

+1 to that as well as it's all you will be able to brew until you introduce temperature control.

I still think this is a big misconception...

Just because you're in and around 85F, doesn't mean its consistent enough for healthy fermentation.

IMO 85F is too high, even for saison yeast.

DONT BUY ANY MORE BREWING EQUIPMENT. Save that cash for a $50-$100 fridge from Craigslist and a temp controller (you can get away with a Johnson one-stage, but REALLY nail it with the Ranco two-stage and a brew belt).

2 Stage:

http://morebeer.com/view_product/16664/102282/Ranco_Digital_Two-Stage_Temperature_Controller_-_Wired

Brew Belt:

http://www.midwestsupplies.com/homebrewing-equipment/fermentation-equipment/temperature-control/the-brew-belt-1.html

546

All Things Food / Re: Growing food - The Garden Thread

« on: May 24, 2012, 06:58:49 AM »

Here are some photos I took back at the end of February:

Each one of the spikes on the fruit is a flower.  After the fruit flowers the fruit grows bigger and the spike transforms into a hexagon shape on the side of the fruit about the size of a quarter.  Once the hexagons are flat the fruit is as big as it's going to get.

The flower spikes follow a curving row from top to bottom of the fruit kinda like a barber pole spiral.  In the top photo you can see that there are seven flower spikes in a row.  That pineapple (was very yummy) ended up being about the size of a 2 liter soda bottle.




This second photo shows the flowers better.  It was a white pineapple (Kona Sugarloaf variety), a bit smaller than the one in the top photo.





Your pineapple has three hexagons per row.  The hexagons are pretty much flattened out.  It's as big as it's going to get.  I suspect it is more of an ornamental than an eating pineapple.  It will probably change colors sometime in July-August.

Your plant will probably not produce fruit any bigger that the one you have.  If you are patient you can start a top and get a big fruit in two years.  A (what they call) 5 gallon pot (actually closer to 3.5 gallons) is the perfect size to grow a pineapple in.  Fertilize a couple of times a year and it will GROW.  Do not fertilize after you see the center part of the plant turn red and the baby pineapple appears.

You can probably by a yearling sucker at a garden shop or online if you are not the patient type.

 
Click on the photos to zoom in.

Took those in February?

I'm moving...

Read through the whole thread, and now I'm inspired! We've picked out a good spot for the garden, just have to fence it off from the pooches. Hops are already in the ground, they just need a trellis!

547

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Pitch a full yeast packet for a half batch?

« on: May 23, 2012, 06:40:33 AM »

First thing they should teach every homebrewer: RDWHAHB (Relax, Dont Worry, Have a Homebrew)

Dry yeast is cheap. Just buy another pack for the next half batch.

Welcome to the hobby (read: obssession) of homebrewing!

548

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Temperature controlled fermentation in a Blichmann conical fermenter...

« on: May 23, 2012, 06:34:18 AM »

You don't need a store-bought "walk-in" cooler, just four walls, some insulation, a AC unit, and a controller.

Google "fermentation chamber" for more ideas, but here's a start:

http://www.franklinbrew.org/members/sj/ferm_chamber.html

http://home.roadrunner.com/~brewbeer/chiller/chiller.PDF

549

Beer Recipes / Re: Blonde ale

« on: May 23, 2012, 06:28:52 AM »

I've never tried dry-hopping with Saaz, but I think this would be a good candidate!

550

Beer Recipes / Re: Farmhouse Ale help

« on: May 23, 2012, 06:20:36 AM »

Have you gents used this yeast before? I'm so confused over this yeast. I've used WY3711, WY3787 and WY1214 and ferment low and ramp up as you state. I read (don't remember where) where this one will stall if pitched too low. I'll keep researching but will probably take your advise.

It will most likely stall (but not stop) either way, taking about 2 weeks to ferment out the rest of the way.

I like what Drew was saying about letting it free-rise and not putting too much heat to it.

A big point to that is that, if you're going to let the fermentation temp go up on its own, you cant start too high or the yeast will produce undesirable by-products.

That's why you start with a temp lower than your target temp. For most yeasts, in low to mid gravity worts (< 1.070), starting in the mid-60F's to start, you can count on about 5 deg F temp rise. This can vary with the yeast (disclaimer for Tom).

I use the temp rise but also keep it elevated with a heat belt. This is mostly because I ferment in a chest freezer - makes it pretty easy to under-shoot it.

551

Beer Recipes / Re: Possbile IPA recipe

« on: May 23, 2012, 06:09:06 AM »

For an IPA, you don't have much going on in late additions. Dryhopping will provide aroma, but additions at the end of the boil will give depth to the aroma and flavor (I add them at ~ 170F while cooling).

You could use the same amount of a higher alpha hop later in the boil than your Cascade at 60 min (say... Centennial at 40 min, for example), then use your cascade at the end of the boil. I didn't run the IBU calcs, but it looks like you can.

If you haven't bought ingredients yet, then we open up all kinds of possibilities :-)

What are you going for? Are you trying to model a certain commercial example(s)?

552

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Fermenting under pressure.

« on: May 22, 2012, 08:30:14 AM »

Some pressure in the fermenting vessel might reduce esters because it keeps the yeast from foaming up above the heat sink (jacket, cooler, etc.). I can't really think of any reason yeast would benefit from additional pressure during fermentation.

Too much pressure is probably a bad thing - not only would there be mechanical yeast stress, but you would hold in a lot of CO2. This creates chemical/osmostic stress on the yeast and its tough to transfer highly carbonated beer.

553

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Homebrewed Wedding Favors

« on: May 22, 2012, 08:17:22 AM »

What a great gift! A huge improvement on anything you could pick out from a registry...

554

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: yeast bummer

« on: May 22, 2012, 08:15:47 AM »

Could I freeze yeast slurry and refresh it with a little wort on/before brewday?

555

Going Pro / Re: Sign my petition?

« on: May 22, 2012, 08:12:56 AM »

With any kind of law or regulation change, successes are had one small step at a time. Its best if its a communal effort throughout the industry. My advice would be to seek out the local breweries and our AHA reps to find a place you can help, and to communicate EXACTLY what you want to see changed. What do you want to be able to do, and what laws/regulations are preventing you from doing exactly that?