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Beer Recipes / Re: What type of Scottish ale would this be?
« on: May 18, 2013, 04:32:25 PM »
Assuming 70% efficiency, 80 schilling.
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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: British Yeast Recommendation
« on: May 08, 2013, 07:08:41 PM »
Wyeast 1968 london esb is fun.
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Ingredients / Re: Brewing With Grits
« on: March 15, 2013, 06:57:49 AM »
It might be easier to just use flaked maize. But if you really want to include the grits, I'd recommend a cereal mash. This is from BYO and explains as well as I could without thinking too hard:
"In a cereal mash you begin by heating a mash of your adjunct and small amount of your 6-row malt to 158–160 °F (70–71 °C) and holding there for about 5 minutes. Then you heat the mixture to a boil, boil for 30 minutes, and return the cereal mash to the main mash. The bulk of your barley malt can be mashed in at 122 °F (50 °C), then heated to 140 °F
(60 °C). When the boiled cereal mash is added to the main mash, the temperature moves into the saccharification range. Cereal mashing requires a nearly constant stirring of the mash. Using flaked maize is much simpler."
"In a cereal mash you begin by heating a mash of your adjunct and small amount of your 6-row malt to 158–160 °F (70–71 °C) and holding there for about 5 minutes. Then you heat the mixture to a boil, boil for 30 minutes, and return the cereal mash to the main mash. The bulk of your barley malt can be mashed in at 122 °F (50 °C), then heated to 140 °F
(60 °C). When the boiled cereal mash is added to the main mash, the temperature moves into the saccharification range. Cereal mashing requires a nearly constant stirring of the mash. Using flaked maize is much simpler."
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Ingredients / Re: Mosaic Hops?
« on: February 28, 2013, 12:22:09 AM »
There's a saison IPA here with all mosaic that's fantastic. My co-worker describes it as having a green tea taste. Definitely some simcoe flavors and could probably be substituted with simcoe. Either way I have a smash beer with pale malt and mosaic. Tastes fantastic. We have both whole leaf and pellets around so they're definitely out there. The distributors are limiting how much everyone can order.
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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: wlp001 for Scottish 60/ or 70/
« on: February 26, 2013, 03:40:14 PM »
wlp001 will produce a fine beer. but I'm sure it'll be too clean for a true scottish ale. so really, it's up to you. To get the correct ethyl hexanoate (red apple) flavors, you should use either the Edinburgh or Scottish Ale yeasts. Most english strains will also produce this flavor within the human threshold but they are usually much milder. Sometimes you can get away with Irish ale in place of scottish
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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Finishing gravity results
« on: February 26, 2013, 03:28:15 PM »
Alcohol will cause the refractometer to read higher than it should. Even with the calculators I prefer the hydrometer for TG readings. That way you can taste the results as well.
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All Grain Brewing / Re: My First Batch Sparge
« on: February 26, 2013, 02:11:38 PM »
Hotter sparge water will "loosen" your mash as well more effectively dissolve the sugars into your wort. I'm sure your mash efficiency was about the same but what I call "sparge potential" can change with the temperature of your sparge, as well as the length of your sparge. Be careful with hotter sparges though, you can also pull some unwanted flavors into your kettle. If you lower the ph of your sparge water using either phosphoric acid or even lactic acid you can avoid this.
To increase efficiency on higher gravity beers you can batch sparge longer and then boil longer. Works well for barleywines and such.
To increase efficiency on higher gravity beers you can batch sparge longer and then boil longer. Works well for barleywines and such.
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All Grain Brewing / Re: wit beer
« on: December 25, 2012, 12:50:12 PM »
With modern malts the protein rest is mainly for clarity. So for a wit, it really is not necessary. Mash out will improve your lautering efficiency but is also not necessary, just remember to include the rice hulls. You should be fine with just a single infusion and batch sparging. I'm usually in the 148-150 range for a witbier.
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Kegging and Bottling / Re: How much sugar to use after lagering a Baltic Porter
« on: December 23, 2012, 03:29:01 PM »
I might consider adding more yeast at the time of bottling.
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Kegging and Bottling / Re: Conflicting Info for Bottle Conditioning
« on: December 23, 2012, 03:25:39 PM »
Extended storage won't necessarily create off-flavors. Depending on how much fermentables are still in your beer, you could explode your bottles. That would be the only reason to refrigerate.
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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Am I missing out by NOT making a yeast starter with my 2.5 gallon batches?
« on: December 23, 2012, 11:49:45 AM »
If you want to make the best possibly beer absolutely make a starter. Even with small batches and smaller gravities... you'll be reducing the amount of diacetyl and acetaldehyde produced during the "lag phase" of your fermentation.
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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: ridonkulous AA%
« on: December 23, 2012, 11:32:55 AM »
When we refer to unfermentable gravity points... generally that's for saccharomyces. There are other types of yeast, bacteria or enzymes etc. that can break those sugars down or ferment them out. Chances are you got some kind of contamination and consider yourself lucky you don't taste any funk.
A friend of mine had a similar experience with beers he's bottled with his beer gun. These beers were fully fermented out and kegged but months after having bottled them, they would volcano when we opened them up. But no strange attributes.
A friend of mine had a similar experience with beers he's bottled with his beer gun. These beers were fully fermented out and kegged but months after having bottled them, they would volcano when we opened them up. But no strange attributes.
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