Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - malzig

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 30
16
All Grain Brewing / Re: Preboil Gravity off
« on: April 16, 2013, 02:41:39 am »
Now I take my "preboil" reading at the hot break, which is preboil as far as the hops are concerned but means it has been mixing for a while and gives me much nicer results.
Yes, it is a lot easier to get a fully mixed sample at boiling.  It's also easier to get an accurate kettle volume at this point, since you know the volume expansion is 4% at 212F.

17
All Grain Brewing / Re: Preboil Gravity off
« on: April 15, 2013, 05:55:35 pm »
To be perfectly honest, if my preboil gravity and volume are on target, I don't even bother checking again postboil.
Same here.  I used to check, but my post-boil gravity was always what the pre-boil gravity and volume predicted it to be.  I think the pre-boil gravity is the second most important, since that is your best chance to correct the hopping rate if the gravity is off.  First is the mash gravity, since that tells you that your mash has fully converted and that your gravity expectation will be met.

Once you know your system, the kettle volume should be a given.  You know how much water you put in, you know your dead space, and you know how much grain you used, therefore your absorption.  It shouldn't be much of a mystery.  I measure the kettle volume just to confirm that it is the volume I expected.

18
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Lagering in corny kegs
« on: April 11, 2013, 05:18:57 pm »
So theres no need to allow gassing off during lagering?  I'm still a little foggy on just what exactly is happening during lagering.  If the yeast are still somewhat active, whether it is better for the beer to be able to "breathe", etc.  If its just a matter of letting the beer drop clear in cold storage, then I think kegs or bottles could be lagered and you could carbonate first.

I'm lagering some bottled/conditioned beer right now.  Four weeks in the fridge at 35F before I take it to a Cinco de Mayo party.
It depends on how well the beer has been fermented.

If you control temperatures well early, then give the beer a bit of well-timed warm conditioning to clean up the last of the diacetyl and acetaldehyde and blow off any sulfur, then a well-behaved yeast should be clean by the end of about 3 weeks of fermentation.  Then you really only need to drop the yeast.  When I use WLP830, I usually only lager for the 2 or 3 weeks that it takes to drop the beer to crystal clarity.

19
All Grain Brewing / Re: Mashing and Fly Sparring
« on: April 03, 2013, 04:17:10 am »
My next recipe calls for a 2 step batch sparge.  The first is using 1.5 gal. and the second calls for 4 gal. all at 160.0 F.  Is there a need for this 2 step batch sparge.  Can't I just put in 5.5 gal. and do one?
Yes, that would be preferred, if it will all fit in your tun.

20
All Grain Brewing / Re: Oops...Session IPA
« on: March 31, 2013, 01:41:56 pm »
I think I may start a campaign to come up with  new name for the overhopped APAs that people are referring to as session IPAs.  AFAIAC, calling them either APA or IPA makes it harder to define what an APA or IPA is.
  I don't think the problem is in calling these beers IPAs; the idea is to make them taste like IPAs, so they are IPAs.  Also, there is a wealth of tradition of IPAs in this alcohol range.  I see the source of the problem in calling beers hopped like IPAs, APAs, or hoppy beers with the alcohol level of a Double IPA, IPAs.

21
All Grain Brewing / Re: Extreme Efficiency Boost!
« on: March 31, 2013, 01:18:54 pm »
Kai's Batch Sparge Simulator predicts just under 87% efficiency for that grist weight and those volumes.  It looks like you got just over 87%, so you might just be getting what you are expected to get.  For moderate gravity beers like this, 70% is a low expectation and would require only 80% conversion.

As far as hydrometer calibration, all but 1 that I've ever owned has been off.  The one I have now was pretty close when it was brand new, but it is off by 4 points, now.

22
All Grain Brewing / Re: Need Some Serious Help
« on: March 28, 2013, 03:36:01 am »
Yes, you can sparge with RO water.

Have you used Maris Otter or Pale Ale malts in other beers and did you like the flavor?  I'm just thinking that you are looking for a clean malt flavor and are choosing complex malts, so you might be better served by a mildly flavored Canada Pale Malt.  Complex malts will also compete with hop aroma and make it seem lower.

Similarly, British yeasts don't often respond well to early racking.  Can you recognize and are you tasting Diacetyl?  This is described as a butter flavor, but at low levels and mixed with complex beer flavors it can taste like a vague "dirty" flavor or like rubber.   It will also compete with hop aroma.

Simcoe and CTZ can be wildly variable in flavor and are sometimes quite unpleasant.

Hop aroma can be hard to get into beer.  Dry hopping will do it, but can add oxygen and grassy flavors.  Many brewers have very specific dry hopping schedules to get the profile that they want.  I've had luck refreshing the hop profile by dry hopping the keg.  You are probably not getting much aroma from your flameout addition.  One thing that you could try would be to allow the wort to chill to 175F, then add your late hops and let it stand for 15-30 minutes before chilling further.  This can add a lot of aroma.

23
All Grain Brewing / Re: Oops...Session IPA
« on: March 26, 2013, 03:54:58 am »
What can I say, I use a gram scale to measure my additions :)

Don't discount those extra 2g!  Should have been 4g though ;)
Absolutely, 2.19 oz. just can't compare to 2.26 oz.! 
However, I appear to prefer greater precision since I use hundredths of an ounce...

24
All Grain Brewing / Re: Oops...Session IPA
« on: March 25, 2013, 06:27:58 pm »
It's the 2g in the 62g that really make it work. ;)

25
All Grain Brewing / Re: Hard packed grain bed - efficiency spike
« on: March 24, 2013, 09:17:12 am »
I'm assuming the flow rate for your run off was slower than usual?  If so, that is likely the reason your efficiency was improved.  If you are willing to spend the time, high efficiency is possible.
Highly unlikely that flow rate will result in any improvement in efficiency for a batch sparge.  Unless, perhaps, if it results in a slightly longer mash.

Crush, temperature and thickness, however, have all been shown to effect mash efficiency.  Get it all right and you get reliable mash efficiency because it is always the result of complete conversion.  Then, grain weight becomes the only variable between batches.

26
All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash-in
« on: March 23, 2013, 05:45:15 am »
I switched to grain-to-water soon after I started because it made hitting mash temperature easier while I learned how much heat I lost to the tun.  After a few batches I had that figured out and it saved me a couple steps by grinding directly into the tun and adding water-to-grain.  Less dusty, too.

27
Just make sure you wash first.  Washing with a peroxide cleaner, like PBW or Oxyclean, will likely kill and remove most of the bugs before it ever even sees sanitizer. 

28
All Grain Brewing / Re: Does increased mashout temp boost efficiency?
« on: March 20, 2013, 04:34:07 am »
A mashout can help, but, for the problem that it helps, you might see the best effect on increased efficiency by raising the temperature into the 158-162F temperature range.  At that point you are improving gelatinization but maintaining amylase activity longer.

29
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Carbonation
« on: March 17, 2013, 09:44:37 am »
I bottled a DIPA (extract recipe) 10 days ago.  Last night I opened one and there was little to none carbonation.
I like to give it a very SLOW and easy stir, to avoid oxidation, with a sanitized spoon about every sixth beer poured. This will keep the sugar suspended more evenly throughout the beer.
The sugar was put in the racking bucket and then the beer was added.  I didn't stir for fear of oxidation but will try your method next time.  Thanks.
Like others have said, it is probably just too early.  There is probably some carbonation, but you may not notice it if you are used to highly carbonated beer.  Did the bottle "pfffft!" when you opened it?

It can help to stir at the beginning, even though just racking can be enough, if you get a a bit of a vortex going.  Stirring during bottling is unnecessary, since you boiled the sugar in water and dissolved sugar will not settle out.

30
All Grain Brewing / Re: Different color from keg to carboy
« on: March 17, 2013, 04:43:51 am »
So, if I understand right, you mashed your grain, drained the tun, then added more water, then drained the tun again to get your second 5 gallons.  You boiled the two runnings separately to make two beers, and the second was darker than the first.

That is odd, usually the first runnings will be darker than the second runnings.

Out of curiosity, did you take the OG of the second beer?
Did you remember to boil and hop the second beer?

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 30