Messages

811

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pressure Canning Wort For Starters

« on: January 16, 2010, 07:50:26 pm »

Let's be clear, not everyone pressure cans with a small unit. With an All American Pressure Canner there is no weight. From my page www.ipass.net/mpdixon

812

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pressure Canning Wort For Starters

« on: January 16, 2010, 10:42:14 am »

I disagree. I've left it until the pressure equates and still had some bubbles rising as if boiling was occurring. I've never had an issue either and have been pressure canning wort for a long time.

813

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pressure Canning Wort For Starters

« on: January 16, 2010, 08:28:00 am »

Also you'll never stop getting break material. I tried several permutations and always got hot break in the jars so finally figured why bother with the boil and so after I sparge, I can the wort. One thing to do is to plan your runoff so the gravity is what you desire for your starters.

814

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pressure Canning Wort For Starters

« on: January 15, 2010, 04:28:50 pm »

Do not chill and no reason to boil.

4.6 is the magic number and while it has been many moons since I attended, the Acidified Foods Certification Class beats that into you so much you will never forget.

815

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pressure Canning Wort For Starters

« on: January 15, 2010, 04:52:35 am »

Kai, Kai, Kai - as much time as you spend researching and the magic acidified foods pH of 4.6 isn't right there on the tip of your tongue? tisk tisk 

Now here's something to research, if you did add enough acid to take a roughly 5.4 pH wort to 4.0, how much acid would it take per quart to acidify and even more interesting how would that lowered pH effect the yeast in the starter as opposed to the 5.4 wort.

816

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pressure Canning Wort For Starters

« on: January 13, 2010, 10:04:42 am »

it would be a hassle to mash just for a little wort to use as a starter

No hassel at all, pressure can an entire batch of wort, just runoff and can, no need to boil, the canning process will take care of that. As far as longevity, maillard reactions will continue to slowly darken the wort over time even at room temp, but it will keep indefinitely so long as the seal is intact. I've kept it for several years without issue.

817

All Grain Brewing / Re: Efficiency of Batch v. Fly as it Relates to Mash Tun Design

« on: January 07, 2010, 04:25:56 pm »

Some breweries actually use a plate and frame filter to "squeeze" out the mash to get every last drop of liquid and the highest possible yield.

Here is said beast at Rodenbach

818

All Grain Brewing / Re: Efficiency of Batch v. Fly as it Relates to Mash Tun Design

« on: January 07, 2010, 06:13:50 am »

So long as you can fully drain the tun, then the efficiency of your batch sparge is what it is. The only way you can lower it is by not completely draining the tun. What that says, in a nutshell, is you could theoretically find the lowest point of a tun and drain from that point. So a SS scrubbie covering that point would work - IF - it didn't suck everything to that point and create a very slow flow - stuck mash. As was pointed out, you may speed the flow using a manifold or other method.

819

All Grain Brewing / Re: Efficiency of Batch v. Fly as it Relates to Mash Tun Design

« on: January 06, 2010, 07:11:01 pm »

Channeling doesn't matter when batch sparging since the runoff is homogeneous. You get the same concentration of sugars with batch sparging in a single draining of the tun from first drop to last. What is of upmost importance with batch sparging is crush. If one has a substandard crush then efficiency will be lower. With fly sparging the most important aspect IMO is mash tun manifold followed by crush.

820

All Grain Brewing / Re: fly sparging: once you're done should it be wet or dry?

« on: January 04, 2010, 02:51:10 pm »

I go for volume and gravity. I generally want to finish with 6 or so gallons in the kettle (5.5-6.0 in the fermenter) so I start with 7.5 or so. Usually I time my boil using my boil off rate so the OG of the beer will be exactly what I desire.

821

All Grain Brewing / Re: fly sparging: once you're done should it be wet or dry?

« on: January 04, 2010, 05:05:20 am »

I generally have drained the tun by the end. I always make up more sparge water than I need, but often have gauged the volume so it ends up essentially dry so I have less to carry to the compost bin.

822

All Things Food / Re: Cold Smoke Generator

« on: December 31, 2009, 06:38:05 am »

I'm reading that price for the unit correctly? Nearly $45?

823

All Things Food / Re: Coffee roasting

« on: December 31, 2009, 06:11:37 am »

For a small batch I use a popcorn popper. For a much larger batch I modified the stirrer in a bread machine to be switchable and put the heating element on a rheostat/dimmer. I heat up the machine, dump in the beans and then use a heat gun to do the actual roasting. My original plan was to use the element, but it was too inconsistent and too hot so I only use it to get the machine hot. I can do a few pounds using this method and equipment, but generally about 1/2 pound is my MO.

I wrote about it here
http://forums.morebeer.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=22562

824

Homebrew Clubs / Re: Club legal status

« on: December 31, 2009, 06:04:02 am »

We set up our club as a business with the state (NC) as a nonprofit corporation. We also have a Tax ID #. Our checking account is just that with zero savings and interest. We've thought about filing the paperwork to be a nonprofit with the Feds but have not seen how that would benefit us.

Here's our state incorporation document, that might help. (I don't mind showing it since I ain't on it!)
http://www.secretary.state.nc.us/corporations/Filings.aspx?PItemId=5264257#

825

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Post mash water adjustments

« on: December 29, 2009, 12:30:54 pm »

I guess no one responded because it truly depends upon your water. Read all these:
http://www.ingermann.com/documents/brewing/schwartz-water-primer.htm
http://www.homebrew.com/mike_brew_corner/mike_02150101.shtml
http://www.homebrew.com/mike_brew_corner/mike_03270101.shtml
http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter15-4.html