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### Messages - dmtaylor

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46
##### Other Fermentables / Re: Strongbow clone?
« on: October 09, 2013, 02:27:34 PM »
no offence to dmtaylor but there are many cider styles. Strongbow is no artisenal product for sure, but it has plenty of fans and common ciders can be made using authentically. Dry cider is not inherently better than sweet cider.

Once upon a time, I consumed an awful lot of Boone's Farm and Zima, so I can relate.  It's not inherently good or bad.  It's just not REAL wine/beer/cider, etc.... I guess that's my real peeve with it all.  People want to make Zima at home?  Well, good luck with that....

47
##### General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Calculating ABV
« on: October 07, 2013, 01:10:45 PM »
Scientifically, in truth, the 131 or 132 or 128 that I have sometimes seen is only good to two significant figures, as there are other variables that affect this "constant" which makes it not truly constant.  So to take this calculation down to an extra couple of decimal points is... pointless.

48
##### General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Calculating ABV
« on: October 07, 2013, 11:17:43 AM »
Drop the "1" from both OG and FG.  Then it's (OG-FG)*.132

(80-20)*.132 = 7.92

+1.  The formula from Papazian is for calculating alcohol by WEIGHT (ABW).  Denny's formula here is for ABV (Volume).  The two numbers are slightly different.  Homebrewers most often use ABV.  Commercial breweries I believe use ABW, or it depends on whatever the laws require at the moment as to how they label their bottles.

49
##### Other Fermentables / Re: Strongbow clone?
« on: October 06, 2013, 09:30:35 AM »
I haven't tried WLP002.  US-05 ends up a little sweeter and tastes great.  But I'm more of a Cote des Blancs kind of guy myself.

50
##### Other Fermentables / Re: Strongbow clone?
« on: October 06, 2013, 07:32:02 AM »
Strongbow is crap cider made from concentrate, water, and lots of chemicals and preservatives.  You just can't make that low of quality cider at home.  All the ciders you made previously are REAL ciders that you should be proud of.  If your wife wants Strongbow she can buy it at the store or the local pub.  There is no sense in trying to produce that stuff at home.

Sorry for the rant.  But I am also very serious about cider.  The REAL stuff.

51
##### All Grain Brewing / Re: Need help with efficiency with Batch Sparging
« on: October 05, 2013, 05:34:33 PM »
If it doesn't hit the 80s, then you aren't crushing hard enough, plain and simple.

Yes and no... It depends on how much you're willing to boil off. To get 80% efficiency on a 1.100 beer with a single batch sparge, for example, you have to reduce the wort by about 25%.

Good point.  I was referring to a more normal/average strength beer of around 1.050-1.065 gravity.  And of course you still need a decent sparge and hour-long boil to get 80%.  Cut any corners and efficiency goes down.

52
##### All Grain Brewing / Re: Need help with efficiency with Batch Sparging
« on: October 05, 2013, 12:00:44 PM »
Don't waste wort.  Add exactly the amount of water you need to achieve your pre-boil volume, and collect every single drop from both the first and second runnings.  Tilt the mash tun to get every drop out.  Also run some calculations so that your first and second runnings are almost exactly equal volumes.  Then watch your efficiency hit the 80s.  If it doesn't hit the 80s, then you aren't crushing hard enough, plain and simple.

53
##### Equipment and Software / Re: Grain Mill Recommendation
« on: October 02, 2013, 06:14:45 PM »
There's always Christmas/Hannukah/Kwanzaa/Solstice/winter holidays!  That's how I got mine.  I was too cheap to buy one but Santa was nice to me that year.

There's also such a thing as the blender method that you might want to try out.  Takes forever and a day to grind all the grains, but it does work.  I did it for several years before Santa came through for me.  See here:

http://forum.northernbrewer.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=67843&hilit=+blender

54
##### Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Poor WLP002 attenuation: raise temp to fix?
« on: October 01, 2013, 02:45:48 PM »
To the OP, you mashed way too warm at 153 F for an OG 1.100 beer to expect good attenuation.  Next time if you want your FG to get down into the 1.020s, mash at friggin 148 F, especially if using a low attenuating high flocculating yeast like WLP002.

It's done fermenting.

The only thing you could try now is krausening with an obscenely large yeast "starter", maybe a full gallon, of highly attenuative yeast such as US-05 or maybe even a saison yeast (I like Belle Saison).  With either of those, it won't produce a lot of flavor anymore given that fermentation is 80% done, but it should finish the job for you.  And keep it warm, around 70-ish or maybe even 72-73 F.

55
##### General Homebrew Discussion / Re: belgian blonde cidery/acetaldehyde aroma
« on: September 30, 2013, 02:01:15 PM »
A few thoughts based on my experience:

Sulfur always disappears with age.  Give it time and it will go away.

Repitching yeast from any cake, whether originally from dry or liquid, shouldn't matter -- yeast is yeast.  Right??

You didn't warm up enough to get rid of acetaldehyde.  It boils at like 69-70 F.  So 65 F wouldn't do a lot of good.

56
##### General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Please help our Engineering Senior Design Project by filling out this survey!
« on: September 30, 2013, 01:49:58 PM »

57
##### Other Fermentables / Re: Yeast nutient questions?
« on: September 30, 2013, 04:36:04 AM »
I never add nutrient of any kind.  Traditional cidermaking tries to slow down fermentation as much as possible, and many great ciders are made with low-N fruit from unfertilized orchards.

+1 -- no nutrient necessary.

58
##### Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Pitched a 2nd type of Yeast....
« on: September 27, 2013, 05:43:30 PM »
The short answer... no and no.

59
##### General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Please help our Engineering Senior Design Project by filling out this survey!
« on: September 27, 2013, 11:24:17 AM »
I think we all need to shut the hell up.  We're giving homebrewers a bad name.  Shut up now!  Let my post right here right now be the last!  Don't even say Amen!  Don't say +1.  Just shut up!

60
##### General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Homebrew shops between Duluth and Flint Michigan.
« on: September 26, 2013, 10:18:17 PM »
Yep, looks like you might find something in Midland, Bay City, Saginaw...

http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/pages/directories/find-a-supply-shop

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