Messages

211

Equipment and Software / Re: Buners

« on: January 16, 2011, 07:51:25 AM »

I'm no expert on this, but I did just switch over to natural gas from propane.  I had a plumber run a line to the corner of the house outside the garage.  The line was run from the meter.  We also discussed t-ing it off the water heater, but the line from the meter was easier and the plumber was concerned that more volume was needed.  The point of all of this is that you need to test that burner somehow before you go to the trouble of welding everything up.  My brewstand has a larger gas line coming to it than anything else in my house.  I'm not sure what the line to that stove looks like or if it shares the line to another appliance in your house.  But, especially if you're planning on using more than one burner at the same time, make sure that line in your basement can handle what you want to do.

Doing my first NG brew in the morning.  Very excited!

212

All Grain Brewing / Re: Pilsner brewing

« on: January 14, 2011, 03:51:08 PM »

Soft water is probably as key of an ingredient in a bohemian pils as saaz hops are.  It's as crucial to this style as high carbonate water is to Guiness.  If you have high or moderately high carbonate water, cutting it by 50% may not be enough to get down in the ridiculously low range that is traditionally used with this style of beer.  You can surely make a great beer while not using the extremely soft water.  But it will be different than what you may be expecting.  If cutting it by half with distilled doesn't get you down into single digits with your minerals, you may just want to use all distilled and build your minerals from the ground up with salts.  I am fortunate (for this style anyway) to have pretty soft water.  So a 50/50 blend gets me there. 

Adding the gypsum is something I did on advice from someone who claimed that that's what they do at Urquell.  It seems to have worked well.  But I'm doing it with a 50 ppm target in mind.

213

All Grain Brewing / Re: Pilsner brewing

« on: January 13, 2011, 03:51:38 PM »

What is the Wyeast equivalent? Wyeast 2278 Czech Pils?  Wyeast 2007 Pilsen Lager Yeast?

Wyeast 2001 is the PU H-strain, and the 2278 is the PU D-strain.
Those are on the stirplate now.  Will do 5 gallons of each, then blend back together after fermentation.
[/quote]

Just for the sake of mentioning it, my understanding is that the current incarnation of Urquell only uses the H-strain whereas it used to be a blend of multiple (5 IIRC) strains.  I'm not saying one method is superior to the other.  More power to you for blending.  I'll bet it turns out great!

214

All Grain Brewing / Re: Pilsner brewing

« on: January 13, 2011, 03:45:56 PM »

Double Decoction (modified Hochkurz schedule). Mashed in at 143 for an hour, pulled a decoction, held at 158, boiled for about 12-15 minutes, raised to 158 for another hour. Pulled another decoction and boiled for 12-15 minutes to reach mash out. Batch Sparged.

Can you clarify this, please? 

Your understanding of what I said appears to be correct.

Mash in at 143 F for 1 hour, pull a decoction, raise the temp of the decoction to 158 and hold at 158F for about 20 minutes IIRC, boiled the decoction for 12-15 minutes, added it back to the the mash, which raised the mash to 158 F.  Mash rests at 158 for another hour. Pulled another decoction and boiled for 12-15 minutes then added it back to the mashto reach mash out.

This was my first decoction.  I added some boiling water to the mash after adding the first decoction back in to get to 158 since the decoction I pulled (around 3.5 gallons IIRC) wasn't enough.

WLP800 Pilsner Lager yeast pitched at 39 F and let rise to 45 F. Let it rise to 50 F toward the end. About 3 weeks in the primary and a week in a bright tank with gelatin.  Then to the keg.

What is the Wyeast equivalent? Wyeast 2278 Czech Pils?  Wyeast 2007 Pilsen Lager Yeast?

According to mrmalty.com, it is the Wyeast 2001 strain.

http://www.mrmalty.com/yeast.htm

Forgot to mention.  I think I did about a 6L starter for this 11 gallon batch.  Probably undersized, but did the trick.

For next time, I may try to do either a single infusion mash at 154 with all other variables the same or a step mash between 143 and 158.  I may still do a single decoction to see if it makes a difference.  In the end, if I can get this same beer without decoction, I'll be glad to shorten the brew day. But, if future batches don't bear this out, I'll just have to set aside time for the long brew day because the product is worth the trouble to get the results I got.

For a single infusion mash, I'd think the temp should be lower, like 150-151 F max given the desire to get it more crisp and dry.  You've got plenty of residual sugars with your 8.7% carapils/dextrine.  Not doubting your results, but your 2+ hour mash essentially gave the enzymes more time to work on your sugars before the sugar profile was fixed at mashout.

You may be right on the money there.  The only thing I can think is that the higher level of sulfates versus chlorides might give it a bit of crispness.  The dextrine level is really high in this recipe, but it doesn't come off as too sweet.  Part of me wants to bump it down slightly, but the flavor seems to be right on.  So I must resist.  I have done JZ's Bopils at 154 before (roughly the same recipe, but with about 5.8% carapils) and have never been satisfied with the mouthfeel or malt flavor.  I know I am only supposed to do one change at a time if I want to know what made the biggest difference.  The above recipe was a complete departure from just about everything I have done before.  So I still have a lot of questions about what made the biggest difference.

215

All Grain Brewing / Re: Pilsner brewing

« on: January 13, 2011, 10:30:13 AM »

I have been on a quest to get something remotely close to Pilsner Urquell for the last several years.  On my most recent attempt, I feel like I absolutely nailed it.  My next goal is to see if I can recreate it with something less than the 12 hour brew day it took to get this truly excellent result.  

Here is what I did.

Recipe (off the top of my head)
91.3.% Weyermann Floor Malted Bohemian Pilsner Malt
8.7% Carapils/Dextrine

Double Decoction (modified Hochkurz schedule). Mashed in at 143 for an hour, pulled a decoction, held at 158, boiled for about 12-15 minutes, raised to 158 for another hour. Pulled another decoction and boiled for 12-15 minutes to reach mash out. Batch Sparged.

120 min. boil. 3 hop charges, each 3.5 oz of Saaz at 4.0% AA. FWH (IBU calculated as 30 minute addition), 80 min. 30 min. Total IBU was estimated at about 41.

WLP800 Pilsner Lager yeast pitched at 39 F and let rise to 45 F. Let it rise to 50 F toward the end. About 3 weeks in the primary and a week in a bright tank with gelatin.  Then to the keg.

For best results, age for at least 8--10 weeks This is the real trick, I'm convinced.  I was happy with the beer at 3 weeks on draught.  I was overwhelmed with how great it was at 9 weeks.  Huge difference.

Water.  My water is pretty soft.  Cutting it with distilled (50%) gets everything into single digits.  I adjusted the mash with lactic per Palmer's spreadsheet (yes, I know there are plenty who thinks this spreadsheet goes to far at this end of the SRM spectrum).  I adjusted my water in the boil so that the final product would have 50 ppm Ca and 50 ppm SO4 with everything else in single digits.  I know that is counterintuitive for this heavily hopped, yet malty beer, but I've tried it with heavy chlorides and it just doesn't taste right to me.  I took some advice from a guy over at the NB forum on this one.  He claimed that this is what the folks at PU were doing to their water, which we all know is extremely soft.  As far as I'm concerned, this advice was very good and I will use this water profile going forward.

For next time, I may try to do either a single infusion mash at 154 with all other variables the same or a step mash between 143 and 158.  I may still do a single decoction to see if it makes a difference.  In the end, if I can get this same beer without decoction, I'll be glad to shorten the brew day.  But, if future batches don't bear this out, I'll just have to set aside time for the long brew day because the product is worth the trouble to get the results I got.

216

Equipment and Software / Re: Mill motor

« on: January 11, 2011, 12:53:36 PM »

dcbd - I've got the same motor that the OP referenced on order.
How did you wire it up so that you could reverse the motor?
Can you put up a schematic?

I decided to turn it over to an electrician for fear of the capacitor. 

But I gave him the diagram from the second page of this thread on the Brewing Network Forum.

http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=16479

217

Equipment and Software / Re: Mill motor

« on: January 10, 2011, 03:53:46 PM »

I have that motor run through a 3 way switch on my barley crusher and it is top notch.  I have only had to use the reverse to clear a jam once and it worked like a charm. 

218

Equipment and Software / Re: Brewstand

« on: December 28, 2010, 08:32:29 AM »

Any thoughts on planning for a setup with a mash tun for single step infusion mashing (the cooler type) vs a multi step infusion mashing vessel (with a burner)? I haven't tried either and definitely appreciate the advice about getting a few all grain batches down prior to building anything.  Thought I'd take a consensus though- are there particular advantages or drawbacks to either setup?  

The cooler will hold temperatures really well and is cheap to construct.  You can do infusion step mashes or HERMs temp control using a cooler as well.  If you undershoot your dough in temp, just ad boiling water and stir.  The opening on a rectangular cooler being larger makes it a lot easier to dump in your grain as well.  

I have a lot of equipment envy, but have never had any inclination to move to a fired steel mash tun over my 70 qt cooler.  I can see the benefit of adding a little fire to maintain temps or step mash, but most of what I do is single infusion and the cooler has not let me down.

219

Equipment and Software / Re: Brewstand

« on: December 21, 2010, 03:48:13 PM »

I went from this



to this





While you absolutely can brew just as good of beer with precariously placed patio furniture supporting things that spew fire, for me, brewing became much easier and more fun when I took the plunge and had this thing welded up.  It folds up and fits in the corner of my garage (22"x22").  Now, I just roll it out, unfold, and go.  Setup is no longer a chore.

I'd suggest getting a few AG brews under your belt and experimenting with your setup before deciding what kind of system you want.  

220

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Running out of propane

« on: December 20, 2010, 01:58:03 PM »

I have 4 tanks, including the one on the grill.  I get them filled at the RV place.  Last time I got 3 filled for $33 bucks.  Much cheaper than the "exchange" type deals.

I just went natural gas, but have been there with the "running out of propane" crew.  I'll echo that if you can find a propane business, it's a lot cheaper to get your tanks filled there than doing the blue rhino swap at the 7/11.

221

Equipment and Software / Re: McMaster part number for keg post o-rings

« on: December 20, 2010, 09:51:09 AM »

Since someone will probably ask, those work for pin locks, too.

222

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Micro VS Home, Lager VS Ale

« on: December 20, 2010, 09:47:21 AM »

This was starting to happen to me on my most recent batch, to the point that keeping the boil going was in doubt.  Santa brought my a natural gas line as an early Christmas present.  Fittings just arrived this morning.  My tanks will be going back by the gas grill on the porch.

223

Equipment and Software / Re: 8 Gallon SS Brew Kettle

« on: December 07, 2010, 01:40:13 PM »

Not to complicate this any more... (well... yes just to complicate this a little more), here's the NB 10 gallon kettle, which goes for $230 (with 1/2" ball valve and thermometer):
http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/brewing-equipment/brew-kettles/megapots/10-gallon-megapot.html

And here's a 15 gallon kettle from Home Brew Stuff that actually costs $10 less:
http://www.homebrewstuff.com/servlet/the-217/15-gallon-60-qt/Detail

I have the 20 gallon kettle from homebrewstuff, a 15 gallon kettle from morebeer, and used to have the 10 gallon megapot from NB.  They are the same quality/build of kettle with different names.  The B3 kettle does have the welds, but weldless works just as well in my experience. 

224

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Help a veteran

« on: December 07, 2010, 09:09:38 AM »

Sounds as if you have enough equipment to make excellent beer.  A lot of improvement will come from becoming familiar enough with using this equipment to standardize your process.

You say you are a veteran brewer.  So you probably know all of this.  Nonetheless, here are a few thoughts.  

You mention two smack packs and stir plates.  Hopefully, you are making starters from those packs to pitch enough viable yeast for your beers.  

Immersion chillers are fine.  They're even better when you have a method of moving the wort around them so that they can chill it efficiently.  A sanitized spoon will do the trick.  A pump with a whirlpool attachment is easier and equally effective if not superior.

Understanding your water chemistry is a fantastic thing.  A sample to Ward Labs is a great way to go.  Mine varied greatly from my City's report.

Temp control is crucial and it sounds like you have that covered.  Make sure the probe is not hanging freely in the chamber, but rather, attached to the vessel and covered with some insulating material.  Some people use thermowells, but this isn't critical IMO.

Aerate/Oxygenate your wort well before pitching.  

Finally, I'm a big fan of brewing software over math.

Good luck.

225

Equipment and Software / Re: No weld fittings

« on: November 01, 2010, 09:48:29 AM »

They work fine.  I have always had mine on my kettles predrilled though.  If you have a local welder, you might want to take the kettle to him and see what he says about the cost of drilling and adding a 1/2 female NPT fitting to it.  I had that done to a kettle and it only ran me $20.