Messages

31

Pimp My System / Re: Kind of a Brutus 10 clone with RIMS, but it works for me

« on: December 04, 2012, 03:01:28 PM »

Nice looking setup, Dean!

32

All Grain Brewing / Re: Kettle Mashing Question

« on: November 30, 2012, 08:45:38 AM »

What size of tubing are you using for recirculating?  3/8" , 1/2" ?   

When I was using a cooler for my mashtun, I was using 3/8" tubing... When I switched to using Blichmann's I had to go to 1/2" tubing to get a better flow rate coming out of the kettle, which meant the pump wasn't having problems...

I use 1/2" high-temp silicone for my RIMS.

That's what I'm using as well. 

A pair of Blichmann control modules on a Tower of Power is a couple of Christmases away, it seems.  Until then, I think I've got my stuff dialed in fairly well.

These are among my favorite purchases.  They do a fantastic job.  I'm running the modules without the tower, flow meter, pump mount, etc.  I already had my pump mounted and, the flow meter with auto shutoff, while nice, wasn't worth the extra $500 to me.  I mounted mine on an articulating CRT TV wall mount that is bolted to my stand.

33

All Grain Brewing / Re: Kettle Mashing Question

« on: November 28, 2012, 08:39:35 AM »

Two questions.

Should I have the pump recirculating wort while I am stirring?

Would my best bet on monitoring mash temp be right at the kettle valve? If my thinking it right that should be the hottest area in the mash.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think there are multiple schools of thought on probe/thermometer placement.  The valve is probably fine.  Mine is about in the middle of my loop, about 3 feet of silicone hose and one pump from the kettle outlet.  This is about half way between the heat source (direct fired) and the mash liquor return in the kettle.  Once everything settles in, the probe in the loop is reading the same as both the kettle thermometer (mid mash) and the thermometer I can stick in the wort stream at the return or in several spots at the top of the mash.  So, the answer is that it probably doesn't matter too much.  By having it mid stream, I'm chancing that the mash liquor below the false bottom where heat is being applied might be slightly hotter the second or two it's being heated before leaving the mashtun and recirculating across the probe that controls the flame.  But that's not enough of a variation to worry me.  My recirculation rate is pretty quick.  So things are constantly moving.

As for stirring, you shouldn't have to if you are recirculating your mash liquor and you have a return line placed in a way that causes that mash liquor to flow fairly evenly throughout the mash.  The quick paced recirculation of the mash liquor coupled with a low heat source will help you avoid scorching and the correct placement of the return line helps to keep the mash temperature uniform.  By stirring, you are disturbing the mash bed, making it harder for the mash liquor to clear, and could possibly increase the chances of a stuck mash.

This is, of course, based on my system.  So your mileage may vary.

I should also add that my direct fired RIMS is automated.  So I'm not doing anything but letting the mash settle for about 10 minutes, starting my pump, slowly at first, then increasing flow to a pretty brisk rate, then punching in my temperature on the controller, and letting the controller do all of the work.  Manually turning the flame off and on sounds like a lot of work and is probably going to lead to some temp swings.  Once my temperature has settled in, the flame-ons don't tend to last longer than a second or two every 30 seconds to a minute. 

Some good insulation for the kettle might be a better bet until you decide to automate the RIMS.  Some closed cell foam (gym mat) and aluminum tape did just fine for my kettle for an hour mash as long as I wasn't recirculating.  It's not the prettiest thing, but it works.

Good luck.

34

All Grain Brewing / Re: Kettle Mashing Question

« on: November 27, 2012, 07:11:48 AM »

I would suggest taking your temperature somewhere in the return loop to the kettle and keep the recirculation rate fairly quick (but not so fast that it sticks).  On my setup (direct fired rims with 20 gallon kettle and false bottom), I keep the flame low, recirc with the valve on the high output march pump about 1/4 open, and take the temperature with a probe on the output side of the pump.  My temps are pretty consistent between my controller, my kettle thermometer, and the handheld thermometer I use to randomly check the mash temps and wort return.  I use a piece of flexible/adjustable tubing from brewhardware.com as my wort return.  I place it just beneath the surface of the mash toward the side.  There is a little whirlpooling of mash liquor, but minimal aeration. 

35

Equipment and Software / Re: Upgrading Equipment vs Learning Your System

« on: November 26, 2012, 02:01:33 PM »

Just to pile on to what others have said, but with my own experience.  Get to know your brew day.  All of our home breweries are differently situated.  Once you have yeast management and fermentation temp control nailed down, if you feel the need to make changes, do it with the idea of improving the process, i.e., make it easier and shorter.  Like Denny, I don't really enjoy building brew stands as much as I like brewing.  That's why I started off by copying his system.  Over time, I made adjustments to suit me.  But ultimately, I wanted a rig I could automate.  So given my desire not to spend a year building it, I had someone build it for me.  Because I don't like messing with wiring control panels, I saved up for a pair of the Blichmann TOP controllers.  I did some of the little things, but left the heavy lifting to the experts.  All of this doesn't necessarily make the beer better.  The improvements in the result is probably a bit of a coincidence coupled with the fact that I have been doing this for a while.  But having a system that holds the mash within 0.5 degrees of what I tell it to without my running around with pots of boiling water or standing and stirring to get that strike water temp just right as it drops from the preheated temp doesn't hurt.  I don't miss that extra effort.  I get just as big of a thrill out of watching the machine ramp up temperatures.  But everyone is different.  And no system is perfect for every brewer. 

Every major change to my brewing setup took about two batches to get dialed in. 

36

Equipment and Software / Re: RIMS Question

« on: November 26, 2012, 01:43:26 PM »

I use this adjustable return tube from Brew Hardware.  Food grade and safe up to 170 F.



http://www.brewhardware.com/accessories/114-mashtube

Does that thing float on the surface of the mash well?

It is adjustable.  You can bend it every which direction.  I place it toward the edge, just under the surface of the mash and run my recirculation loop.  If I'm running a larger or smaller grain bill, I just adjust it up or down to maintain this position.

I don't use the Camlock fitting pictured.  I already had a threaded return port in my kettle.  So I just screwed it on.  It pops off with a little pressure for cleaning.  Great little piece of equipment.  I tried the silicone hose return.  But I could never get it to stay exactly where I wanted.  It tended to sink.

37

All Grain Brewing / Re: Wet milling fail / I'm an idiot

« on: November 16, 2012, 09:09:17 PM »

Wow, that is some serious moisture. I condition the grain with a spray bottle as I am dumping it from scale to bucket. I just spray the grain as it falls in. I always let it sit at least 20 minutes before milling after all that spraying as well. It does make my grain bed seem "fluffier".

We live and learn right? At the very least it is a wild photo. How much grain were you milling there?

This is basically what some brewers do at the pro level.  They run the grain through the auger, and into the MLT.  At the end of the auger, they attach a collar that is hooked up to an off shoot of the water inlet to the mash tun so that the grain is hydrated as it enters the tun.  Good for cutting down on dust and preventing dough balls ... possibly a few other things. 

At our level, I don't worry about it.  I just add the grain slowly and stir a lot.

38

Equipment and Software / Re: RIMS Question

« on: November 09, 2012, 03:49:59 PM »

I use this adjustable return tube from Brew Hardware.  Food grade and safe up to 170 F.



http://www.brewhardware.com/accessories/114-mashtube

39

Equipment and Software / Re: Help!! Pickup Tube/Chilling/Whirlpool Dilemma

« on: November 07, 2012, 01:08:06 PM »

I run my dip tube to the side and recirculate through my CFC.  No problems with clogging.  I get a nice trub pile and draw off slowly with the pump to the fermenter.  Not sure how well this would work on the Blichmann kettle with the dip tube setup.

This is mine.

40

All Grain Brewing / Re: HERMS vs RIMS

« on: November 04, 2012, 09:17:06 AM »

dcbc - just a heads up, I didn't do the wiring - the control panels can be purchased assembled.  I did alter the kettles and build the brewstand, etc. however. 

edit - forgot the Blichmann ToP is for propane IIRC.   Nonetheless you can make a simple control panel for $5-600 easily.

A couple of years ago, I had natural gas run to the garage.  I don't miss filling propane tanks a bit.  I haven't noticed any difference in my NG bill as a result of my brewing.

41

All Grain Brewing / Re: Batch Sparging on a Single-Tier System

« on: November 04, 2012, 09:12:25 AM »

Yes, you need two pumps to fly sparge on a single tier stand.  I batch sparge on mine.  If you underlet your sparge water, you are going to disturb the grain bed. But if you stir your mash for batch sparging anyway, that shouldn't matter much.  I have a top port on my MLT with an adjustable return that I place just below the mash bed. I recirculate with the pump, and the return creates a bit of a stirring/whirlpool that seems to mix things up without really disturbing the bed.  With a bazooka screen like I had on my cooler MLT, disturbing the bed wasn't as big of a deal.  But with the false bottom, I'm less inclined to stir things up.  Seems more prone to channeling.  On the other hand, the pump doesn't seem to cause it to compact or stick too easily.

42

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Which dry ale yeasts to keep as backup?

« on: November 02, 2012, 05:46:19 PM »

I always keep one or two packets of Saf-Lager 34/70.  I have, fortunately, never had a non-fermenting problem with a liquid ale yeast.

43

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Increasing fermentation temperature

« on: November 02, 2012, 05:36:35 PM »

This is my first brew.  In the Yeast book, the authors describe ....

I have to say, this post really shows how far home brewing has come from an information available standpoint.  I think I got my information prior to my first brew off the side of the box (kidding, I read Palmer's Vol. 1 before my first brew).  But still, kudos to you for filling your head with so much great available information before taking the plunge.  You are far less likely than most of us to have to suffer through your first batch (not that mine wasn't caramelly sweet and delicious. 

You are on the right track! 

44

Pimp My System / Re: Brew Stand 3.0

« on: November 02, 2012, 05:51:37 AM »

Thanks!

45

Equipment and Software / Re: Gas Pipe Question

« on: November 01, 2012, 01:54:09 PM »

Any chance you will ever go natural gas?  If so, you may want to go bigger.  Also, will the plumbing be supporting the burners or will you have those bolted into your wind screens?