Messages

4066

Beer Recipes / Re: Amount of Vienna in Bell's Two-Hearted Ale?

« on: April 30, 2010, 07:40:32 am »

I don't know the clone of Two Hearted ale but I can;t imagine 2 lbs of vienna would do very much. Maybe try going with 50% of the grist as vienna. Also, not sure if the cara pils is necessary with 1/2 of crystal, but like I said, I don;t know the clone recipe.

4067

Equipment and Software / Re: Conical Fermenters

« on: April 30, 2010, 07:37:40 am »

For some reason I never can get a good dump on the break in my conical. It comes out like ... well ... a bad dinner at captain d's. I just feel like I am wasting beer.

4068

General Homebrew Discussion / MOVED: Pink Peppercorm Saison

« on: April 30, 2010, 07:35:33 am »

This topic has been moved to Ingredients.

http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=2111.0

4069

General Homebrew Discussion / MOVED: Conical Fermenters

« on: April 30, 2010, 07:34:39 am »

This topic has been moved to Equipment.

http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=2118.0

4070

Equipment and Software / Re: Conical Fermenters

« on: April 30, 2010, 07:27:42 am »

 Many pluses, can't think of any minus.

Expense? That's what keeps most from purchasing them. I makes collecting easier. It won't necessarily make you beer better, though.

What I will say, and this may not apply to the OP, is a better way to spend money is on temp control. A chest freezer and a temp controller will make a profound difference in the quality of your beer. Conicals sure are nice though.

4071

Equipment and Software / Re: Conico Fermenters

« on: April 30, 2010, 05:27:30 am »

I use one for large batches. For small batches I still use carboys and buckets. The pros are they are easy to clean, you can collect yeast very easy and they are easier to transfer from. The only cons are they are expensive. My .02 is if you only brew 5 gallon batches they aren't worth the price. 10+ gallons and maybe they are, if you have the money.

4072

Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Dark Malt extract

« on: April 30, 2010, 04:17:00 am »

I would use the extract to bump up a high gravity dark beer. A Baltic Porter would be the perfect fit because you want a heafty amount of sweetness in the end. Or a high gravity sweet stout. Use a style you don't mind getting a  lower attenuation on.

4073

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Dry yeast in a German pils

« on: April 30, 2010, 04:11:39 am »

Unfortunately you are not going to find a very good dry yeast for a German pils. S-189 will work "ok", but no where near as good as a good liquid yeast.

I am currently enjoying my 1st Pilsner brewed with this exact strain. S-189 it is so convenient to utilize and attain
the proper pitch rates.  I dry hopped the beer and have been lagering it about 4 months ....it is a really nice beer.
That yeast is prolly the reason, even tho this was the 1st time I built water from R.O. for brewing.

Yeah, it's OK. Just not on par with something like WLP830, for my tastes. I just got done drinking 10 gallons of pils a couple weeks ago made with the yeast. It didn't get dumped down the drain  , and I made a doppelbock with the slurry that turned out nice too. But I think if I am going to spend all thee time and energy making a lager I am going to just stick with liquid yeast from now on. That said, S-189 is the only dry yeast I have ever had good luck on with lager yeasts.

4074

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: What's going on here? (Pic)

« on: April 29, 2010, 03:04:34 pm »

This is why I always put the carboys in the tub!  

The purpose of the airlock is to keep airborne bacteria and wild yeast out of the wort.
When the airlock gets contaminated with krausen, you should clean it.
.

I wouldn;t say it is "contaminated" with krausen though. As long as there is positive pressure coming out of the carboy it is almost impossible for an infection to take hold. If, for instance, he has his fermenter in a "wet area" and doesn;t mind cleaning up the miess he could simply leave it until the krausen starts to drop.

Plus, (I'll say it again just to make sure everyone is listening   ): if you pitch the right amount yeast (ie: that usually means making a starter with liquid yeast) at teh right temp (that means low to mid 60s for most ale strains) you won't get very many blow offs. I very, very rarely get one. If, OTOH, you pitch your yeast and leave it in your 70 degree living room with no way to reign in the temp - yeah, its probably going to go all over the place (and give you a beer with more off flavors to boot.)

4075

Equipment and Software / Re: Which counterflow chiller should I get?

« on: April 29, 2010, 09:12:21 am »

True about SMM issue being a Pils related deal and a 90 minute boil will handle most of the SMM. I use Pils malt a hell of a lot. The hops issue is still an issue though.

During the dea heat of summer (here in alabama) I can get my wort down under 140 degree (12 gallons of it) in under 15 minutes. I do have an issue getting it cooler than 80 degrees.

On my 1bbl system I am using a CFC (NB's Chillzilla) in conjunction with a pump and WP it back into the kettle. But if the OP already has an IC I would not personally consider going to a CFC an "upgrade". I used a CFC for around 10 years before discovering the simple joys of an IC. 

4076

General Homebrew Discussion / MOVED: Which counterflow chiller should I get?

« on: April 29, 2010, 07:41:40 am »

This topic has been moved to Equipment.

http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=2085.0

4077

Equipment and Software / Re: Which counterflow chiller should I get?

« on: April 29, 2010, 07:39:37 am »

I'm upgrading my brewery this year. One of the two "big" things on the list is a counterflow chiller.  Something easy to clean & sanitize is at the top of my feature list. Which is the best to get?

Also, I've heard you need high temp hoses to handle the hot wort... what do I want to look for?

Thanks,
Chris

I hardly consider going to a CFC an "upgrade" from an IC for several reasons:

• A CFC is not easier to clean than a IC. With an IC you simply hose it off and plop it in the kettle 10-15 min. before the end of the boil. You can soak it in a vinegar solution to remove patina or a cleanser solution to remove trub/stone. Who the hell knows if the inside of a CFC is clean?

• Using an IC you can start cooling immediately after the boil is over. With the CFC you really need to wait at least 10-15 minutes before cooling to let break/hops settle. During this time SMM, the precursor to DMS can still being formed at hot temps but can;t be driven off. Also, hop utilization is still taking place, loosing aroma and gaining bitterness.

• With an IC you can leave most of the hot AND cold break behind in the kettle.

• With a CFC you can sometimes have a clog in the copper due to the length of tubing, depending on the ID.

I used a CFC for years and I prefer an IC much better. Way easier all around and big benefits on the quality of beer IMO. If you really want to upgrade consider getting a pump (you will need one for your CFC to work properly anyway) and try using Jamil's Whirlpool Chiller - http://www.mrmalty.com/chiller.php Or, simply keep a sanitzied spoon handy and Whirlpool it yourself from time to time. But personally I wouldn't recommend a CFC over an IC.

4078

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Dry yeast in a German pils

« on: April 29, 2010, 07:16:32 am »

Unfortunately you are not going to find a very good dry yeast for a German pils. S-189 will work "ok", but no where near as good as a good liquid yeast.

4079

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Should we be eating our yeast cake?

« on: April 28, 2010, 03:51:10 pm »

Marmite tastes nasty. Know that.

4080

The Pub / Re: Healthy Beer

« on: April 28, 2010, 04:32:26 am »

Beer isn't really all that unhealthy in moderation and can be part of a complete breakfast. Seriously, beer in excess is bad for you. But two or three beers a day is way better for you that two or three soda drinks. Being active and eating "sensibly" is the key to good health. A little beer fits in that lifestyle very nicely.