1276
Pimp My System / Re: My Brutus 10 Build
« on: January 24, 2010, 08:54:47 PM »
Nice work and nice welding job.
News: Welcome to the American Homebrewers Association Forum. Though you do not need to be a member to participate, we would love for you to join us!
Show Posts
This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
1277
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Partial Mash As a First Step To All Grain
« on: January 24, 2010, 02:48:16 PM »Well-I have decided simply to try the partial mash approach first. I made a "mash tun" out of two gallon cooler. I am brewing right now. It was exciting to see how things work. I used 165 degree-5.5qts of water and added my 4lbs of grain-hit 154 degrees perfectly. It is now resting. I have made contact with another brewer here in town that makes 30 gallon all grain batches. I will met up with him next weekend. My homebrew shop will start carrying Wyeast 1450 so when I switch to all grain I will go with the Denny's Rye IPA. Here are the two articles that I used for where I am today. Thanks to all for your advice.
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Making_a_Partial_Mash_mash_tun
http://www.byo.com/component/resource/article/511-countertop-partial-mashing
Great news.
As someone else said.
JUST BREW IT
All grain is not that difficult at all.
1278
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast Culturing
« on: January 24, 2010, 02:43:52 PM »How long can you keep yeast in slants and how many steps are needed for a typical ale (1.050ish)? I read where Kai said using wire is okay to start with so I may give it a try if I can find some damn agar within 50 miles of me.
I think they said that you can keep yeast on slant for 1/2 year and then re-culture.
When building it up you could do something like this: 10 ml, 80ml, 400ml, 2000ml
Each step is about 2 days.
1279
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Partial Mash As a First Step To All Grain
« on: January 23, 2010, 01:51:36 PM »I also started with 7.5 gal turkey fryer.A 7.5 gallon kettle is (barely) big enough for 5 gallon batches.
As a10t2 pointed out it is big enough, just barely.Even though the margin of error
for using a 7.5 gal kettle is minuscule it is big enough. I made several batches with
one and successfully made the jump to AG. Go for it. You will just need to be diligent
with watching for boil overs.
Now I will tell you that it is too small for 5 gal batch.
I need to have 8 gal wort when I do 5 gal batch.
SO if you are buying a new kettle, buy at least 10 gal pot.
And Spigot is essential.
1280
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: the bare essentials
« on: January 23, 2010, 01:47:21 PM »
Refractometer is handy but I could brew without it if I had to.
I would say good brew kettle and wort chiller are essential.
And I guess some kind of fermentation vessel is also needed.
I would say good brew kettle and wort chiller are essential.
And I guess some kind of fermentation vessel is also needed.
1281
All Grain Brewing / Re: Using water spreadsheets
« on: January 23, 2010, 12:41:32 PM »
Those video tutorals are great help too.
1282
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: When to ramp up ferm. temp?
« on: January 22, 2010, 07:54:43 PM »
When you are done 75% of your fermentation.
For me it is after one week.
Then I raise temp each day 2F but no more then 10F from ferment temp.
For me it is after one week.
Then I raise temp each day 2F but no more then 10F from ferment temp.
1283
All Grain Brewing / Re: Brewing Salts...
« on: January 22, 2010, 07:32:32 PM »
Do you mean something like this?
1284
Equipment and Software / Re: Light bulb in fridge to control temp.
« on: January 22, 2010, 07:26:44 PM »Just don't use a high wattage halogen light.All I can say is WOW.
See this thread from the BN (hoping that hotlinking works)
http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=18695
This guys fridge is seriously messed up!
Glad nothing rally bad happened.
1285
Equipment and Software / Re: I got a pump... now what?
« on: January 22, 2010, 01:52:19 PM »what kind of oil? mineral?It is on pump label.
Do you want me to go to the basement AGAIN!!!
1286
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast Culturing
« on: January 22, 2010, 01:31:44 PM »
Here is a picture of one petri dish:
You can see two streaks and some individual colonies.
and then I made more plates and slates:
Plates are in sandwich ziplock bags (they are supposed to be sterile).
Standing tubes are 10ml wort for first step starter.
You can see two streaks and some individual colonies.
and then I made more plates and slates:
Plates are in sandwich ziplock bags (they are supposed to be sterile).
Standing tubes are 10ml wort for first step starter.
1287
Beer Recipes / Re: Rauch love...
« on: January 22, 2010, 01:19:14 PM »Thirsty_Monk's recipe looks almost exactly like mine. I have used WLP-830, migh ttry 833 next time.I remember. That was the place that beer was cheaper then lemonade!
There is nothing better than an afternoon in the Gasse at Schlenkerla, getting the beer at the window, and talking to the locals.
Here are some souvenirs
1288
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: PURE O2 vs. NATURAL AIR AERATION
« on: January 22, 2010, 09:37:35 AM »People reported solvent like taste with over O2 beers (even when fermenting at proper temp).
So there can never be too much O2 present that the yeast won't use it all?
1289
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: How Long to Lager after Long Fermentation
« on: January 22, 2010, 09:31:24 AM »
I agree what other have said.
I usually lager 4 weeks on 1050 beer.
I usually lager 4 weeks on 1050 beer.
1290
Beer Recipes / Re: Let's see some dunkel recipes
« on: January 21, 2010, 01:06:47 PM »Yes they do have Dark Munich but it is 8.1 - 9.9LBy the way Wayermann does not have 15L Munich malt any more.
Where did you see that. Their website still lists Munich type I and II. Type II is the dark one.
Kai
http://www.weyermannmalt.com/eng/produkte.asp?PN=2&idkat=15&umenue=yes&idmenue=37&sprache=2
Dark Munich use to be 15L.
Not sure why they do not have it anymore.