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Messages - Joe Sr.

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1186
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Too much head on beer
« on: September 29, 2011, 08:01:50 AM »
If I were to carbonate at 30 psi for 2 days I assume once the co2 has dissolved the co2 tank continues to push a pressure of 30 psi onto the beer unless reduced.

Yes.

If you do reduce the pressure prior to purging the valve or pouring a beer does the head space pressure drop to the new setting or does it remain at 30 psi?  

If you reduce pressure at the regulator, the head space pressure remains the same until you release pressure inside the keg (pouring or purging).  EDIT: It is also possible that the initial pressure (30) could dissolve into the liquid enough that the pressure in the keg reduces to your new setting.  This would mean that you were not fully carbed at that pressure or that you lowered the temp of the beer.

Will the co2 tank only actually put more gas into the keg once the pressure drops at or below the new co 2 pressure setting?  

Correct.

Does the excess foam come more from too much carbonation suspended in the beer, too high a head space pressure, or some combination- or are these in the end the exact same thing?

Not exactly the same thing, but they are directly related.  The amount of carbonation will be a factor of both the pressure in the keg and the temperature (colder liquid will absorb more CO2).  If the beer is at the right pressure for the carbonation you want when serving at 40 degrees, it will be overcarbed/foamy if you serve at 50 degrees. 

Excess foam will also come from too short of a serving line.  A standard recommendation is to start with a long line and cut it back until you get the pour you want.

Because I'm lazy, the way I typically carb and serve from my kegs is to pressurize them to 30psi and shake for a while.  I'll do this a couple times before I put them aside.  Once they go in the fridge, I chill them and tap them.  The first pour is usually crazy foamy, so I'll release head pressure to get a good pour.  I close the fridge and come back when I want more beer.  The keg has reached a new equilibrium and either pours well or needs to be bled again.  When the pour gets too slow, I add gas at approx 10 psi to get a good pour and then disconnect.  I do not have my kegs on gas all the time.  It's usually pretty easy for me to get the kegs to the right pressure for a good pour with a nice head and good carbonation, but I'm used to my system after using it for years.  YMMV.


1187
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Too much head on beer
« on: September 28, 2011, 06:48:08 PM »
I have to disagree.  In my experience when I force carb I set to 30 for two days, I don't vent, I just dial it down to ten for another five days.  The beer is not carbed to 30 it's carbed to roughly 10.  No matter if he vents, the beer is still carbed to 17 until he leaves it on the gas at a lower pressure to equalize.  

If he's already carbonated to 17psi, turning down the regulator will have no impact.  Where would the extra pressure go?  It does not go back into the CO2 tank.

I'm sure you already know this, but when you vent the pressure, you're releasing the head pressure.  Once the vent is closed, CO2 then comes out of solution to balance the pressure in the keg, thus reducing the carbonation of the beer.  To have a significant impact, you would need to do this several times over the period of a day or two, but it certainly will reduce the carbonation of the beer.

In your case, after two days at 30 psi you're likely not fully carbonated and turning down the regulator to the pressure you want works.  Your two days at 30 are simply speeding the process.  In those first two days, your beer wouldn't be overcarbonated if you tried to pour it.

Since he's already overcarbonated, he's got to get pressure out (venting), not just reduce the pressure going in.

1188
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Too much head on beer
« on: September 28, 2011, 02:36:04 PM »
 Yes, if you force carb at 17 psi and then set to 7 for a few days, it will de carbonate.  

Yes, but it will only de-carbonate if you release the 17 psi head pressure down to 7, either by pouring beer or releasing the PRV.


1189
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Too much head on beer
« on: September 28, 2011, 12:31:05 PM »
If you're pouring too fast and getting too much foam, you're pushing the CO2 out of suspension and the beer will taste undercarbonated.

You can bleed off pressure to get a good pour, but be aware that (assuming you do not have the keg hooked to gas) it will reach a new equilibrium - the CO2 will come out of the beer until the head pressure in the keg is balanced.

1190
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Mini Kegs
« on: September 28, 2011, 12:02:41 PM »
Midwest is the only place I can find that still sells mini kegs.  It doesn't look like the ones they sell have the spout, but you could contact them to find out.

However, since the empty kegs are like $15 plus shipping, why not just buy the Warsteiner, choke it down and reuse the keg?

1191
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Keg Availability
« on: September 27, 2011, 11:40:17 AM »
I heard this years ago, but cannot substantiate it.  At least 5 years ago, probably longer.

1192
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Keg Availability
« on: September 27, 2011, 10:04:23 AM »
Keg connection is selling converted pin locks.  I don't know what the conversion process is, though.

I got my first kegs for $20 each...  Should've stocked up back then, but the 10 or eleven I've got should be plenty.

1193
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Keg Availability
« on: September 27, 2011, 09:48:00 AM »
Thanks.  I'll check it out.

1194
Kegging and Bottling / Keg Availability
« on: September 27, 2011, 09:41:59 AM »
A buddy of mine was looking to get some kegs and it looks like availability of used ball locks is pretty slim.

More Beer is out of stock on used kegs.

Anyone know what's up?  Have a current source?

I know prices were shooting up and I stocked up over the summer.  Or thought I did, they're all full now though...


1195
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast Price Increase - Danstar Nottingham
« on: September 26, 2011, 01:47:43 PM »
I'm sure the new packaging and procedures are a response to the quality issue they had a year or so ago (I don't recall the details).

Reliability improvements come at a price, I suppose.

But they've still got a great product that's relatively cheap.

1196
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Can't re-attach corny posts - pics included
« on: September 26, 2011, 12:12:23 PM »
But if the tube came out of there, it shouldn't be too long to go back in.

Absolutely. 

I'd try to figure out what's going on before I start cutting things.

The posts should be marked IN and OUT on the keg.  Is the diptube on the correct side?

I can't imagine there would be a significant difference in how it fits from one side to the next.

Rather than pushing it down, try moving the diptube around from the inside of the keg.  Maybe that will help.


1197
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Dispensing Soda
« on: September 25, 2011, 05:20:20 PM »
Served root beer today, carbed at 45 psi, served at head pressure.  No problems. A tad foamy, but the kids loved it regardless.

I don't recall how many feet but I've got a big ol' coil of tubing hanging off the keg.

1198
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Putting kegs into storage
« on: September 24, 2011, 11:47:49 AM »
I don't think it matters.  IF you pressurize right after you sanitize, you,ll have some liquid left over but it shouldn't be anything to worry about.

I certainly wouldn't sell them.  Prices keep going up for used kegs, so if you have space keep em.

1199
http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=1084.0

This thread has a link to the PDF I've used for years as my bench mark for converting recipes.

"The short answer,based on typical all-grain processes and extract characteristics, is to use 3/4 (0.75) lb of liquid extract
for each pound of grain being substituted, or 2/3 (0.67) lb dry extract."

This conversion has served me very well over the years, though I sometimes round up and wind up with stronger beers than originally intended.  Which is not all bad.

1200
The Pub / Re: $12,000 per serving??
« on: September 20, 2011, 04:35:49 PM »
Yes and no. Wine will continue to age in the bottle although spirits will not.

Old bottles of spirits do have value (more so the rarer/older they are). Scotch from the 1850s has sold for nearly 30k, although it is still technically only 12 year old scotch.

My point, however, was how would you know that what you're drinking is really what it is supposed to be?  I doubt anyone would buy two bottles of 200k scotch to compare them. Again, more of an issue with wine where such fraud has been documented.


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