Messages

1261

All Grain Brewing / Re: Boiled too fast...

« on: July 13, 2011, 07:59:00 AM »

I did something similar recently, though for different reasons.

I overshot my target gravity and so after primary fermentation (a 1.12 old ale that stopped at 1.044) I split the batch and diluted with another 3 gallon batch.  I re-pitched the yeast and it fermented out to right where I wanted it.

In your case, if you are set on adding the molasses I would recommend brewing and fermenting the 1 gallon batch separately and then blending them for aging/packaging.

I agree on the comments recommending that you skip the champagne yeast.  I've used it in the past and feel that it didn't add anything beneficial.  However, if you're set on using it I don't think it will hurt.

1262

Beer Recipes / Re: Adding dry hops timing advice needed

« on: July 12, 2011, 06:21:19 PM »

Setting aside the question of gravity readings and the many uses for a turkey baster, we're talking about dry hopping here.

What's the rush?  I've never been in a hurry to dry hop.  In addition, dry hopping is one of the few instances where most people recommend a secondary vessel.

So, relax, let the krausen fall, transfer the beer (if you so desire), and add your dry hops.

As mentioned above, you don't want active fermentation to scrub out the aromatics, so patience is your friend here.

And take a gravity reading when your comfortable doing it.

1263

Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Calculating ABV from blended worts

« on: July 12, 2011, 10:15:05 AM »

Gordon - You're correct.  1.02 (edited above).

Glad to see my approach was correct.  If not my typing...

1264

Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Calculating ABV from blended worts

« on: July 12, 2011, 09:50:00 AM »

So I've finally kegged up my old ale.  I overshot the OG (1.12 instead of 1.095).

After it fermented down to 1.044, I split the batch into two separate carboys and added more wort.  The batch I added was a total of 3 gallons (1.5 gallons when to each of the 2.5 of the previous batch) brewed with 4 lbs. DME.

This mix fermented down to about 1.02 (I don't have my notes handy).

So, if I wanted to figure out the final ABV, would I take a weighted average of the two starting gravities and use that to compute with the final final gravity?

If I take a weighted average of the starting gravities, I come out at 1.096, which is right where I wanted to be.  Blind luck, since I didn't calculate this before...

Just curious if anyone has thoughts on the right way to calculate this, since everyone asks how strong it is.

FWIW, it's a damn fine beer.  One batch has been on tap, the other is aging and I think I might bottle it.

1265

Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Mash efficiency using LME?

« on: July 09, 2011, 07:39:53 AM »

After a few batches you should have an idea of your mini-mash efficiency.

You can always adjust your dme or sugar to hit your target after your gravity readings.

1266

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Opinions on aeration system

« on: July 07, 2011, 01:26:04 PM »

Also are the regulators for dissposable O2 available from HD? Then I could just get the .5 from morebeer and get the regulator at HD avoiding two shipping costs.

I'd be interested in knowing this also.  It looks like they are essentially the same thing you would get using a mapp gas torch, or a brazing torch kit.

Is that accurate?  If so, I pretty much have what I need to move from my aquarium pump to disposable oxygen bottles.

1267

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Uh-oh... Leaky Keg Blues

« on: July 07, 2011, 12:21:19 PM »

If you heard it, too, that makes it true enough for me.  You'd think you could get a higher price than whatever the scrap value is, but I bet selling them for scrap is effortless.

For my money $40 at the LHBS is good enough.  I think the days of $20 and $25 are long gone, though I remember them fondly.

As for scrap, here in Chicago there's apparently a rash of thefts of home HVAC compressors.  Stolen in the night for their copper.

Someone stole two units off the roof of an animal shelter not too long ago.

But I'm WAY off topic...

1268

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Uh-oh... Leaky Keg Blues

« on: July 07, 2011, 11:45:16 AM »

I have to say that I've been hearing for years now that the supply is running out, but there always seem to be some to be had.

Prices have definitely gone up over the years, but that seems true of all things.

5 years ago or so I was told that the Chinese were importing them in full overseas containers to get the stainless steel.  Who knows what the truth is?

A couple months ago, I was quoted $65 a pop at the LHBS.  So I bought 4 from More Beer delivered to my door for much less.

Perhaps it's regional availability?  Or they come in batches when someone gets a bulk purchase?

1269

The Pub / Re: What will they think of next.......

« on: July 07, 2011, 09:03:49 AM »

I suppose some beer you just have to give away.

Though, as we know, Bud is strangely popular over there...

1270

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Uh-oh... Leaky Keg Blues

« on: July 06, 2011, 04:48:14 PM »

Outside: Bar Keepers Friend.  This stuff will clean it up nice.  You might need to peel at the labels a bit first, but BKF will do a heck of a job on the stainless.

As far as the leaking, if you hit it initially with 30 lb or so of pressure it often helps to seat the top so it doesn't leak.  You can also try putting the lid o-ring in warm water to soften it up before you seal the keg.  That has helped me in the past.

As far as replacement o-rings, you can get them at McMaster Carr super cheap.

1271

Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Mash efficiency using LME?

« on: July 06, 2011, 02:49:26 PM »

I agree.  If it was at 150 for an hour, I'd call it mashing, too. 

Efficiency doesn't really matter, since you're fermentables are coming from the extract, but that's more than a steep.

1272

The Pub / Re: Chloramines coming to a city water supply near you...you may already have it.

« on: July 06, 2011, 02:46:32 PM »

I've always just used my under-counter multi-pure filter that we use for drinking water.  It's a carbon filter, and I've never had a problem with band-aid flavor in my beers.  There are certain times of the year when you can smell the chlorine/chloramines in Chicago water, and even then it's not caused any issues.

I try to be good about changing the filter, and it's sure easy to do so.  Replacements are like $50, so it's more expensive than campden, but it also filters all of our drinking water.

They make an RO system which, were I buying new, I would certainly consider.

1273

Beer Recipes / Re: Pumpkin beer

« on: June 29, 2011, 06:54:38 PM »

I dug out my old ( Oct. 2000) BYO recipes.  There are two extract recipes.  It should be relatively easy to adjust these to all grain.

Depot Pumpkin Beer
8 to 10 lbs pumpkin, scooped, skinned, cut into two inch squares
6.6 lbs. British light LME
1 lb. amber DME
1 lb carapils
1 lb honey
5.4 AAU cascade 60 min
5.3 AAU EKG 45 min
3/4 tsp. cinnamon
1/4 tsp ground cloves
1/4 tsp nutmeg
1/4 tsp pumpkin pie spice
1/8 tsp vanilla extract
Wyeast America Ale II (1272)
The pumpkin is added at 30 minutes, spices and honey at 45 minutes.

Indy Pumpkin Beer
6.6 lbs light LME
8 oz carapils
6 oz caravienne
3 oz crystal (40 lovibond)
15 oz. can of solid pack pumpkin
6 AAU Crystal for 60 min
1/4 tsp nutmeg
1/2 tsp cinnamon
1/2 tsp vanilla extract
1/2 tsp pumpkin pie spice
1/4 tsp ground ginger
Wyeast 1335 British II yeast
Grains and pumpkin are steeped at 150 for 30 minutes.
spices are added with 10 minutes left in the boil

I've never brewed either of these strictly to recipe, or at least not in the last 5 or more years.  Based on some of my notes, I've liked it better with the addition of ginger.  I've also done it with canned pumpkin pie mix and it turned out fantastic.

1274

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Home Glycol system

« on: June 29, 2011, 02:57:38 PM »

Phil - I ran through the same thought process as you when we remodeled our kitchen a couple years back.

I had full approval to put taps in the kitchen, but couldn't figure a good way to bring the beer up from the basement below.  I did think about suspending a fridge from the ceiling in the basement, but only briefly...

In the end, I decided short trips to the basement for draft beers wasn't too bad of a way to live.  The glycol system seemed to be just too much effort, cost, etc. and the cold plate would have required dedicating some cabinet space to a wine fridge.  Obviously, suspending a fridge from the ceiling of the basement just wasn't practical.

If you get your system worked out, let us know.  I'd love some taps in the attic, as it's a long way to go from there to the basement to get a draft...

1275

Beer Recipes / Re: Pumpkin beer

« on: June 29, 2011, 08:54:42 AM »

I prefer teas to tinctures because I like the flavor of cooked spices better than raw spices.

I hadn't thought of the cooked vs. raw.  I'm not happy with the flavors I've gotten from the vodka tincture method.  They seem harsh, without being overspiced, if that makes sense.  Spices in the brew pot seem to be more mellow.  I'll try the spice tea next time.

I tend to go heavy on the cinnamon for my pumpkin and up the cloves and allspice for my Christmas ale.

Years ago, I made a beer using yams instead of pumpkin.  This can work when no pumpkins are available.