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Messages - tschmidlin

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61
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: starter volume
« on: May 01, 2013, 12:03:25 AM »
My understanding is that higher sugar content actually starts the yeast on an anaerobic cycle (like you want in beer) while the lower sugars can still encourage aerobic yeast growth

If you're thinking of the Crabtree Effect, there is a gravity below which the yeast won't ferment, but it's about 0.5°P (1.002), so it isn't really a practical way to grow yeast unless you have a method for continuously feeding the culture, like the yeast labs do. But as long as there's some oxygen available, the yeast will continue to reproduce as well as ferment the sugars anaerobically. Which is why increasing access to oxygen results in more growth.
What he said. :)

62
Ingredients / Re: Clarity and pineapple question
« on: May 01, 2013, 12:00:06 AM »
Well there you go - maybe it's not the papaya then :)

63
Beer Recipes / Re: Meyer lemon wit
« on: April 30, 2013, 11:53:44 PM »
i have some meyer lemons soaking in vodka and honey right now, making a version of limoncello.  I would go for it.  You could soak the zest in vodka and dose at packaging, or use the zest of 2 or three at the end of the boil.

64
The Pub / Re: Best TV theme song
« on: April 30, 2013, 02:12:53 AM »
I can't believe it took 12 posts to get to this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dQw4w9WgXcQ

65
Hop Growing / Re: Cicadas and Hop Plants
« on: April 29, 2013, 11:21:33 PM »
I don't think hops are very sappy.
They are plenty sappy for aphids, for what that's worth.

66
Ingredients / Re: Clarity and pineapple question
« on: April 29, 2013, 11:18:24 PM »
I'm with punatic on the papayas - they are used as a meat tenderizer because of they break down proteins.  Chill haze is caused by proteins.  This could very well be the reason it is so clear.  It would be interesting to add some meat tenderizer to a cloudy beer and see if it clears.

67
Ingredients / Re: Best Way to 'Dry Adjunct'
« on: April 29, 2013, 11:12:01 PM »
This might be what they mean above, but for the zest I would soak it in alcohol and then either add the whole tincture or strain out the zest and add the alcohol.  You can dose to taste at packaging.  This is also a good way to make citrus vodka if you are so inclined. 

For the chamomile, I would boil it and make a tea and do the same as above.  You could add the tea to the fermenter without worrying much, but getting the dose right could be a pain and you'd have to taste it frequently to rack it when the level hits what you want.

68
Homebrew Competitions / Re: NHC regional experiences
« on: April 29, 2013, 11:02:13 PM »
Don't get me wrong I think the AHA does a fantastic job by and large!!  I understand how homebrewing has exploded in the last few years and the problems dealing with that growth.  I think that at some point the AHA "might" have to realize that they can no longer put on the NHC in its' current form
We have already realized this and the competition committee is currently talking through the changes we are considering for next year.  We are also planning to survey the membership to find out what they want/expect from the competition so that we can make sure they are positive changes.  While I can't guarantee we will fix all of the problems and make everyone happy, it won't be because we didn't try to anticipate the needs of the competition.

69
Regular poster on  here, but found this thread on a google search (I am having a similar problem)...though I was originally trying to turn this beer around in about 9 days for a party...not looking too good right now.  The beer has a real clean, fresh, wheaty, citrusy aroma, but I am getting a weird sulfury, almost papery/cardboardy oxidized aroma.  The taste starts out really bright, but ends with a strange (and slight) farty thing thats somewhere between eggs and paper. 

Not contained in the notes below:
-1L starter, decanted, made additional 1L starter and pitched when active (entire starter with starter beer of 2nd step)--borderline overpitch so the beer would finish quicker
-cold-pitched at 66* (partially due to the fact that I likely pitched about 1.3x the recommended amount), fermented there for 3 days, raised to 68, checked sample, gravity was down to 1.011, ramped to 70 after 5 days (today), might consider going to 72* tomorrow
-15min Protein rest @ 122, 5 min decoction to 155*, sacc rest 65 minutes, decoction to mash out, single batch sparge
-used centennial to try to get some citrus in the beer from another 'angle'
-the wort smelled so amazingly delicious when I pitched (almost like a fruity muffin of some sort), I ran to a buddy's to pick up some distillery-grade fermcap, which I was convinced would help keep some of the post-boil aroma goodness in the beer (it didn't....would love to know how to retain more of the aromas this beer had). 

Even in tasting between today and yesterday, it seems as though the sulfur might have dissipated a bit.  Or maybe it was the silicone fermcap of death that I added that's going to kill me. 

Would love to hear if the OP's sulfur problem subsided...


Wit and Wisdom
16-A Witbier
Author: mcp

Size: 6.0 gal @ 68 °F
Efficiency: 75.0%
Attenuation: 75.0%
Calories: 174.35 kcal per 12.0 fl oz

Original Gravity: 1.052 (1.044 - 1.052)
Terminal Gravity: 1.013 (1.008 - 1.012)
Color: 4.58 (2.0 - 4.0)
Alcohol: 5.15% (4.5% - 5.5%)
Bitterness: 13.4 (10.0 - 20.0)

Ingredients:
5.5 lb (45.8%) Bohemian Pilsner Malt - added during mash
5 lb (41.7%) Wheat Flaked - added during mash
.5 lb (4.2%) Munich Malt - added during mash
1 lb (8.3%) Oats Flaked - added during mash
.25 oz (50.0%) Centennial (10.0%) - added during boil, boiled 60 m
.25 oz (50.0%) Centennial (10.0%) - added during boil, boiled 30 m
1.5 oz Orange zest - added during boil, boiled 1 m
.4 oz Corriander crushed - added during boil, boiled 1 m
.5 oz Chamomile (dried) - added during boil, boiled 1.0 m
1.0 ea White Labs WLP410 Belgian Wit II Ale

Schedule:
Ambient Air: 70.0 °F
Source Water: 60.0 °F
Elevation: 0.0 m


Notes
added chamomile tea and zest in muslin bag at 30 seconds wort smelled great, seems like a lot of aroma blew off with fermentation (though silicone added to cap krausen)

Results generated by BeerTools Pro 1.5.24
I think it is from your yeast and pils malt.  I would warm it up to 75 for a day, then crash cool.  That will help drive off the H2S (which is what I think you have).

70
All Grain Brewing / Re: observation of dissolved oxygen loss in wort
« on: April 29, 2013, 04:59:33 PM »
So adding pure O2 before pitching is good. And adding excessive o2 before pitching will negatively affect the flavor. And aerating after pitching can be ok in certain situations like starters and high gravity beer or mead. But pure o2 after pitching is always bad. Is that right?
Adding pure O2 before pitching is good.

You can't add excessive O2 before pitching, it is not possible due to saturation.

Adding O2 to beer (not wort) negatively affects flavor.

Aerating after pitching in starters is fine because although that can affect the flavor stability in a negative way, you are not drinking your starter.

Pure O2 after pitching is not always bad, as long as it is done in a controlled, measured manner and you don't add so much that it is toxic to the yeast, and as long as it is done before fermentation has progressed too far (because then it can affect the flavor and stability).

Essentially, oxygen toxicity can be caused by oxygen radicals like superoxide (O2-) that are generated in and can damage the cell.  Superoxide is grabbed by superoxide dismutase, which alternately converts it to either hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) or molecular oxygen (O2).  Since the H2O2 can also damage the cell it is further degraded to water and oxygen (2 H2O2 -> 2 H2O + 2 O2).  This is the same reaction that happens during respiration in our bodies all of the time, and dealing with it is important enough that we have superoxide dismutase all over our bodies, circulating and in every cell.

Your google search may not have led to anything that the authors directly relate to brewing, but the yeast strains that are used in labs are derived from beer/bread strains and share nearly all of their genetics with our brewing strains.

You should at least be able to read the abstracts of some papers here:
http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com.offcampus.lib.washington.edu/doi/10.1002/yea.320070203/abstract
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3380282/

71
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Kettle Loss - Blichmann Hop Blocker
« on: April 29, 2013, 10:13:27 AM »
Oh, I get it now.  Do you have a tube that sticks into the kettle?  Mine is basically an opening in the side.

72
All Grain Brewing / Re: observation of dissolved oxygen loss in wort
« on: April 29, 2013, 10:11:45 AM »
If you can control how much you are using then it is no issue.  But you could just wait to oxygenate after you rack, right before pitching.  It is safer that way, with no risk to the yeast.  I typically oxygenate and then pitch immediately, as opposed to pitching and oxygenating immediately.

73
The Pub / Re: best ereader
« on: April 29, 2013, 09:39:06 AM »
'fermetation', etc. more accurately than I can type them on a full size key board.
;D

74
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Kettle Loss - Blichmann Hop Blocker
« on: April 29, 2013, 09:25:12 AM »
That doesn't seem like a huge amount to me, maybe 5-7% loss in the kettle.  You can try to get that down if you want, but I wouldn't bother unless I had nothing else to worry about :)

I'm not sure what the point of that u-bend is or how you would use it.

75
All Grain Brewing / Re: observation of dissolved oxygen loss in wort
« on: April 29, 2013, 09:22:12 AM »
Only if you can tightly control how much O2 you are adding.  Wort saturated with O2 is fine for pitching yeast, but continually adding O2 as the yeast are taking it up can lead to oxygen toxicity.

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