Messages

106

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Blonde Belgian kegged, force carbonated and it is too sweet

« on: March 07, 2011, 06:40:19 AM »

I am amazed that there does seem to be sweetnes still in the brew since the hydrometer indicated 1.000 FG.

As others have pointed out, there's still plenty of sugar in this beer.  Belgians are dry not just due to high attenuation but also due to bittering hops.  Up them a bit next time, not enough to be noticed as bittering hops but enough to dry out the beer.

Also, alcohol can give an impression of sweetness, so the bittering hops have to balance that as well.

107

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Going extinct?

« on: February 23, 2011, 05:47:17 AM »

I guess the question is ... have we hit Peak Corny?

108

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What's Brewing This Weekend - 2/18 Edition

« on: February 17, 2011, 10:56:33 AM »

Belgian Pale.  Smoked Dunkelweizen should be finished fermenting.

109

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: First Time Judging Beer

« on: February 15, 2011, 11:12:26 AM »

Don't drink coffee the day of the judging.  According to Carr's Sensory Evaluation Techniques, it can impact your palate for up to an hour.  Smoking is bad, too, but according to the book, its effects don't last quite as long.

110

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Getting proper carbonation when bottling from Blichman Beer Gun

« on: February 09, 2011, 10:39:40 AM »

I haven't had issues with undercarbonated beer, but I pre-chill my bottles and set my dispensing pressure low, as low as I can tolerate, so beer doesn't rush into the bottle and cause CO₂ to come out of solution.  It takes me a good 8 or 10 seconds (that's longer than it seems) to fill a bottle, not counting the time it takes to cap it.

111

Ingredients / Re: Identifying hops by smell?

« on: February 06, 2011, 06:21:59 PM »

Any brewer worth their salt knows that a recipe is only a start.  Good beer is a combination of skills that extend far beyond the recipe.

Hear, hear!  Not to mention that 90% of the resulting beer didn't come from the kit, anyway.  I'm surprised you didn't mention that, Martin. :-)

112

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Walgreens Big Flats 1901

« on: January 28, 2011, 05:07:49 PM »

http://brookstonbeerbulletin.com/walgreens-debuts-private-label-beer/

113

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Your coolest brewing contraption

« on: January 06, 2011, 07:21:37 AM »

Can we see some photos of these creations?

114

Equipment and Software / Brewery lighting

« on: January 05, 2011, 07:09:19 PM »

What's the best kind of lighting to install in a brewery?  I'm considering a number of factors, including

• - low UV emission to avoid skunking finished beer
• - appropriate color temperature for observing beer when tasting
• - low heat emission since I'll be working under them

I've found it hard to get the data above on various products, especially the spectral data.

115

Equipment and Software / Re: Electric Alternatives to turkey fryer.

« on: January 05, 2011, 06:59:06 AM »

A friend and I use single-unit induction stoves for the boil.  Well, he has used his; I'll be using mine as soon as I finish my basement brewery (I had been using propane outside).  I have tested mine, and I've seen his in action on brew day.  The model I have is the Thermador 15" CIT151DS, which requires a 20-A, 240-V circuit.  It's now discontinued, but you may be able to find one (or a newer model) on eBay for cheap.

Only ferromagnetic pots work with induction stoves.  Not all stainless steel is ferromagnetic; a good test is whether a refrigerator magnet sticks to it firmly.

The stove I have will boil at least 7.5 gallons at its maximum setting, so it's not for big batches.

116

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Running out of propane

« on: December 20, 2010, 05:02:13 AM »

I once had to interrupt a boil similarly, and the beer turned out fine.  I didn't make any adjustments to account for the interruption.

You may already know how to tell how much propane you have left, but just in case you don't: the tare (empty) weight of the propane tank should be stamped on the side -- usually around 17 lbs.  Step on a bathroom scale while holding the tank, subtract the tare weight from the reading on the scale, and you'll get the weight of the propane left.

117

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Sanitizing bottles in the dishwasher

« on: December 10, 2010, 12:21:10 PM »

See also this thread.

118

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Operation Fermentation Step two....

« on: November 20, 2010, 07:15:57 AM »

I forgot to ask at the store, is that a 5lb CO2 bottle?

It should have the tare weight (how much the bottle weighs when empty) stamped on the side.  Weigh it and subtract the tare weight and you have the weight of the CO₂ inside.

119

Equipment and Software / Re: Auto siphon cracking

« on: November 17, 2010, 08:14:22 AM »

My first Autosiphon developed crazes similar to what you're describing.  I replaced it with the larger Autosiphon (the extra throughput is nice, btw) and have been careful never to use it with hot wort or clean it with hot water.  I guess I keep the cleaning water under around 120º.  It has lasted several years with no crazes.

That said, the Autosiphon is a few too many parts touching the wort for my taste, so I'm considering switching to a stainless steel racking cane or, better yet, just a length of tubing.

120

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Oxygenating Wort

« on: November 17, 2010, 08:07:31 AM »

I dump from bucket to bucket from waist height 8 times.  I've heard this method attributed to George Fix but can't find a direct citation.  I've used a MixStir with comparable results, but I find the extra bucket easier to clean.