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Kegging and Bottling / Re: think about a beer engine build, and have a few questions
« on: March 01, 2012, 07:14:42 PM »
I sit corrected...... learn something every day.
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32
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Carbonation Experiment......
« on: March 01, 2012, 07:12:11 PM »
And since this was such a success, I have to do it again. (Read, I've got 6 kegs that need carbonating on the way to the event......) Except this time the event is a few hours drive.....as in Eastern PA to Mississippi, via Orlando Florida.
Stop for diesel and a pee brake, check the bearings and the tires on the camper, switch the CO2 hoses on the kegs.....you know, just another road trip......
Stop for diesel and a pee brake, check the bearings and the tires on the camper, switch the CO2 hoses on the kegs.....you know, just another road trip......
33
Equipment and Software / Re: Good video showing proper way to calibrate with an ice bath
« on: February 29, 2012, 07:34:37 PM »
Which is not a problem, as long as you know, and apply the correction.
34
Kegging and Bottling / Re: cold crash....freeze??
« on: February 29, 2012, 07:26:50 PM »I would add that you might want to find a cold spot where the sun does not shine.
You want him to put his beer where? Sorry, couldn't resist.
35
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Keg Carbonating
« on: February 29, 2012, 07:23:38 PM »
Like somebody said........ sugar is for boosting the octane. CO2 bottles are for carbonating. 
36
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Tightening keg posts
« on: February 29, 2012, 07:11:17 PM »Can't remember where I saw it (it was on youtube somewhere) but the guy said turn the post finger tight then tighten with a wrench a little and give the wrench one "whack". That's what I do.
Would that be a metric or a standard whack?
37
Kegging and Bottling / Re: think about a beer engine build, and have a few questions
« on: February 29, 2012, 07:00:55 PM »
It would work, briefly, until the vacuum in the cask would no longer be overpowered by the pump. So, you'll need to put a connector on the gas side of the corny with a short piece of hose to let the air in.
Speaking of which, the problem with casks is that the air gets into them as you serve them. So, either you serve it quickly or you the beer goes bad. Unless you hook up just a wee bit of N2 on the gas side to act as an inert replacement for the beer. But now it all gets tricky and more spensive.
Also, to be a true cask conditioned ale make sure you let the beer carbonate itself, no CO2, no sugar. And finally, most fridges will run no warmer than 40-45. Cask ale is served at cellar temperature, ie 50-55. So you'll need an external controller.
Speaking of which, the problem with casks is that the air gets into them as you serve them. So, either you serve it quickly or you the beer goes bad. Unless you hook up just a wee bit of N2 on the gas side to act as an inert replacement for the beer. But now it all gets tricky and more spensive.
Also, to be a true cask conditioned ale make sure you let the beer carbonate itself, no CO2, no sugar. And finally, most fridges will run no warmer than 40-45. Cask ale is served at cellar temperature, ie 50-55. So you'll need an external controller.
38
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Tightening keg posts
« on: February 28, 2012, 01:11:47 AM »
From memory feel......20 ft pounds sound OK?
39
Kegging and Bottling / Re: First time kegging - Used two gas "in" ball lock fittings
« on: February 27, 2012, 11:56:28 AM »
If it was me I would indeed bleed the head off the beer, and switch out the post. Don't forget to sanitize the new post.
40
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Dubbel vs Belgian Dark Strong
« on: February 27, 2012, 11:51:28 AM »If it tastes like Belgian flavored vodka, it's more of a strong dark ale.
Yum!
41
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Just had my first kolsh...
« on: February 27, 2012, 11:50:03 AM »
I'll chime in here. It's the wife's beer and I've made a total of about 40 or gallons of it. Three weeks in the bucket, and then in the keggerator. Starts clearing after two weeks, you can read a newspaper through it after four. I use the Wyeast Kölsch and ferment around 66º-68º It comes out really nice. Here's my very simple recipe:
http://hopville.com/recipe/1033643/klsch-recipes/wooden-shoe-klsch
Batch infusion at 148º, batch sparge around 165º. As far as water, mine is very soft, all I do is treat it for the chlorine/chloramine the city puts in there with a carbon filter and a Campden tablet. If your water is hard, Euge's suggestion of 20% tap with 80% bottled/RO would probably work well.
http://hopville.com/recipe/1033643/klsch-recipes/wooden-shoe-klsch
Batch infusion at 148º, batch sparge around 165º. As far as water, mine is very soft, all I do is treat it for the chlorine/chloramine the city puts in there with a carbon filter and a Campden tablet. If your water is hard, Euge's suggestion of 20% tap with 80% bottled/RO would probably work well.
42
All Grain Brewing / Re: How careful are you?
« on: February 13, 2012, 08:02:33 AM »
I measure weights and volumes, temperatures, OG and FG. I use a clock. I take notes. That said, I have the right tools. Large tub on a scale which will hold any 10G grain bill. Small digital scale for hops. Thermometers in ever tub and barrel. Clock on the wall. I've made it easy, and it's become a steady routine, which allows a beer or two without creating chaos.
The results vary. I'm training my "intuition" as to how the beer will come out. So far, so good. And really, I can't taste the difference between 5.4% and 5.8%.......
The results vary. I'm training my "intuition" as to how the beer will come out. So far, so good. And really, I can't taste the difference between 5.4% and 5.8%.......
43
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Need opinions over lost airlock
« on: February 13, 2012, 07:53:05 AM »
CO2 is heavier than air. Weeks after I remove the buckets from the freezers they ferment in I can stick my nose in there and get a CO2 burn.
Thus, when the airlock is off, unless there is a strong airflow across the hole to suck the CO2 out, my bet is that the space above your beer is mostly, if not all, CO2 and thus your beer is fine.
Since it has fermented, any bacterial intrusion will also be of a low risk.
I'd let is sit if I were you, then bottle it and don't worry about it.
Thus, when the airlock is off, unless there is a strong airflow across the hole to suck the CO2 out, my bet is that the space above your beer is mostly, if not all, CO2 and thus your beer is fine.
Since it has fermented, any bacterial intrusion will also be of a low risk.
I'd let is sit if I were you, then bottle it and don't worry about it.
44
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Portable Kegerator
« on: February 13, 2012, 07:44:15 AM »Cool...... the five caster snap in wheels are awesome....
http://www.woodenshoemusic.com/WSBW/Beer_Cart_II.html
That's a small dolly. I don't think his can accomodates the wheel attachment.
Yes, looks like he used a residential can. I got mine at a restaurant supply, 44g's. A janitorial supply would have it too, plus the snap in casters.
45
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Portable Kegerator
« on: February 12, 2012, 08:20:15 PM »
Cool...... the five caster snap in wheels are awesome....
http://www.woodenshoemusic.com/WSBW/Beer_Cart_II.html
http://www.woodenshoemusic.com/WSBW/Beer_Cart_II.html